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I've used one of these basic momentary to latching logic modules on a project years ago, never had any issues with it. It worked reliably without any glitches. You don't have to "fiddle with the cluster", unless you feel you just have to have the fog light indicator working in it. All you have...

I hope this pic helps a bit. You can see how it's rather tight to get to the screw that holds the cable on. I bought a 5.5mm ratchet wrench to get in there. That size is kinda hard to find, but I did manage to find a reasonably priced set of them on ebay that had that size in it.

52 (ear lobe) definitely, if it was broken or cut. Possibly 53 too. And yes, the gear on the end of the cable drives the gear teeth on the lobe, which the drives the small gear on the shaft to the door. Getting to the screw that holds the cable on there is a tight fit to get at, but it can be...

Well, mostly it's positive going in, and positive going out. It's not considered negative until the current has passed through its load. Like the starter motor, light bulbs, cooling fan, blower motor, fuel injectors, etc. The only negative needed for that fuse block are for the relays, and that...

53 or 52? The "ear lobe" part is what's labeled as 52. Sounds like the original may have broken. If that broke, it could mean a stuck or binding blend door inside the blower housing. You'll have to make sure that door rotates freely, or you may end up breaking the replacement driven gear (ear lobe).

Can you be more specific about which exact parts are missing? Perhaps list some of the numbers from the diagram that are missing on yours?

I have looked at this, and it looks like it could work if you connect the factory switch, which is a momentary switch to request the BCM to turn the factory fog lights on/off, by using a logic board that converts momentary inputs into on/off control for a relay.

I understand all that. I just left it in that one time, just to see how far I could go with it. Since then, I typically remove it every spring once low temps remain above 50°F. But like I said, I wanted to test the limits of it, and I also checked the A/C pressures to see where they were...

Just an update on this. I previously stated that I still had the block off in place in hot weather, and the A/C still worked OK. While that was true, later study with the Torque app did reveal that refrigerant high side pressures were up noticeably from this. Once removed, the high side...

I wasn't having any issues, just saw a simple improvement that could be made. The nut you are showing to tighten, isn't that just a box attachment nut?

It's fine, leave it in. The 0W-30 is an acceptable substitute for 5W-30. I have used Mobil 1 0W-30 in my Sonic several times, no issues...

Just an update. I found these short braided ground straps and added a couple of them between the stud the cables go to, and the stud left unused from this mod. I figured it would help ensure a more solid connection to the chassis by giving it a second ground path. As you can see in the first...

Unless you see actual damage to the wires or wiring harness, I'd say that the likelihood of wiring issues are pretty slim. Have you tried to see if what the O2 sensor is indicating is real? As in an actual lean condition? Which engine do you have?

You have to use the Trax/Encore shocks and struts.

So the ground battery cable on these cars is a two-piece design. The ground from the engine block is taped up with the positive batt cable, and attaches to the chassis frame rail beneath the battery tray, right in front of the transmission mount. The second ground cable, going to the battery...

Actually it's the oil cooler coolant outlet hose. The turbo coolant pipes are considerably smaller diameter. Getting to the lower clamp is very tight, but can be done from the top with plenty of patience. Some special pliers made for spring type clamps help a lot.

No, nothing that I can tell for certain. MAYBE a very slight increase in induction noise at heavy throttle opening, but not sure if it's real or imagined.

Last one.

More pics.

I've always hated how the "resonator" or "damper" or whatever you call it in airbox to turbo inlet looks. But I despise how practically all aftermarket intakes look even more. I wanted a way to get rid of the resonator while keeping a "factory" look. So the other day I was browsing pics of Sonic...