CM Stage 4 Clutch and Aluminum Flywheel Review

[SONIC1.4]

I finally got my Clutch Master Stage 4 Sprung Clutch and Lightweight Aluminum Flywheel installed today. My car on the stock clutch was slipping in third so I decided it was time. Although the stock clutch still looked great to my surprise.

Driveability: The stage 4 Clutch is actually quite streetable. I still for the life of me can't get a smooth start in first gear though. I stalled it about 7 times today. I found that if I rev my rpms up to around 1500 and then let the clutch out and then gas it more as I hit the engagement point (which is probably the last inch of pedal travel) I can get a decent start. Still a bit jerky. As for gears 2nd-6th, its identical to the oem clutch engagement wise. I thought I'd have problems reversing as well, but I was able to reverse with ease.

Performance: It is only the first day of driving with this clutch, but this is what I have noticed so far. It is very grabby in a good way. Once it engages it won't let go for anything! Its too easy to spin my tires now. RPMS are also more responsive or quicker you could say. All in all, it performs very well as it should. I haven't gotten on it too much, but I can tltell this clutch may get me into some trouble. Its hard not to rip through the gears as it throws you in your seat. Also, the pedal is very soft, slightly softer then with the stock clutch installed which I don't mind.

Sound: This clutch is very audible! Well, the flywheel rather. It chatters like there's no tomorrow. Its mostly noticeable in neutral and in the bottom of second and third gear. Personally, I enjoy the sound. It makes the car sound mean, and as far as I can tell its mostly heard from inside the cabin not outside. Don't let the sound bother you as it is only expected from removing all of that mass. I also plan on the sound lessening as I break the clutch in a bit more.

As of now I am pleased with this clutch kit, I will update more as I drive it more. I'm also taking tips for a smoother start in first gear, so if anyone has some input ill gladly accept. I learned manual driving on my sonic when I first bought it in May of 2012, it only took about 3 days to get use to it, so I hope I adapt to this one as quickly as I did previously. Any questions just post them or shoot me a PM!

 

[Brags]

I ran a the same setup on my cobalt with over 350 hp. You will be happy good products

 

[Preloader]

Finally I have a clutch brother. Your review is spot on to my experience. Only comment is that the noise is actually the gearbox, not so much clutch.

I've got about a year on mine. I still struggle not to slip the tires on most starts. But I found that Eco mode helps when you want to just daily through town.

 

[SONIC1.4]

Finally I have a clutch brother. Your review is spot on to my experience. Only comment is that the noise is actually the gearbox, not so much clutch.

I've got about a year on mine. I still struggle not to slip the tires on most starts. But I found that Eco mode helps when you want to just daily through town.

Yesss!! Hahaha! Oh okay that makes sense, does the noise reduce as the clutch sees more use? And I drove for 3 hours straight last night so I'm starting to get the hang of it! And I'm all about my Red Pill tune

Also on a side note, I'm back at the mechanic who installed it because if I release the clutch pedal too fast wether it be in nuetral, or when aggrisively driving and I shift it gets stuck half way coming up for about half a second and then continues to release normally. Anyone know what this could be?!

 

[Preloader]

The noise doesn't reduce.

Never had the pedal issue you describe. I hope it's not anything serious.

 

[SONIC1.4]

The noise doesn't reduce.

Never had the pedal issue you describe. I hope it's not anything serious.

Oh well, the noise doesn't bother me but this pedal thing does. They said it may because the slave cylinder wasn't drained. The only time he's had this problem before was on another vehicle and it was the master cylinder. So annoying

 

[Preloader]

I HIGHLY doubt there is anything wrong with the master. These slaves are super cheap and fragile. Also, bench bleeding is a must. Maybe bleeding it again might cure it. I hope so.

 

[SONIC1.4]

Okay cool, I assume its the slave cylinder or the pedal may need adjustment? Is there a way to adjust the pedal? I haven't looked to into it. I felt for something but it was dark and I couldn't find anything. I'm thinking that they didn't drain the slave cylinder, the owner said his mechanic may not have so I'm going back in hopefully at 8am before work and hopefully they can take care of it right there and then.

 

[Eric Smit]

I doubt the pedal needs adjusting.

 

[Preloader]

There is zero adjustment. And the transmission must be removed to even look at the slave. The only hope is that another bleeding cures the issue.

 

[SONIC1.4]

Well, re bled the slave and its a no go. Still gets stuck half way when released quickly in nuetral, or when agressively shifting at high rpms. I actually was sitting at a stop light pumping the clutch pedal to see if it was still doing it, and what do you know, my car wouldn't go. I had trouble getting it into first, so then after getting it into first my clucth wouldn't engage. So I turned my car off (this is all with a bunch of rush hour pissed off morning drivers) turnes my car back on, and it was fine. Clucth still sticks halfway. Maybe I shoud order a new slave from clucth masters? I can't use the stock one can I?

 

[ChrisJ]

I think it was a much different setup but I had problems with the clutch in a chevy C2500 I owned years ago. Was a hydrualic clutch with a normal pivoting fork type setup that a long slave pushed against. The truck had an aftermarket clutch, I think kevlar but I could be wrong, and a super heavy pressure plate, my pedal was harder than any 18 wheeler or dump truck I compared it to.

Anyway, I had two masters blow out and a slave blow out. Also ended up with the fork cracked where it pilvoted, the throwout bearing was worn into the fork and the clutch disc had worn more than an 1/8" into the flywheel, but the disc was fine at 180k. Shame everything else was shot.

Sorry, point is that clutch near the end would bind if I let it up slow. I'm not sure what was causing it but I think the cracked fork was. The pedal it self would come all the way up because it had its own spring and lifted away from the master cylinder that it just pushed against.

Does the actual pedal stop, or does the clutch not engage but pedal moves fine?

 

[SONIC1.4]

I think it was a much different setup but I had problems with the clutch in a chevy C2500 I owned years ago. Was a hydrualic clutch with a normal pivoting fork type setup that a long slave pushed against. The truck had an aftermarket clutch, I think kevlar but I could be wrong, and a super heavy pressure plate, my pedal was harder than any 18 wheeler or dump truck I compared it to.

Anyway, I had two masters blow out and a slave blow out. Also ended up with the fork cracked where it pilvoted, the throwout bearing was worn into the fork and the clutch disc had worn more than an 1/8" into the flywheel, but the disc was fine at 180k. Shame everything else was shot.

Sorry, point is that clutch near the end would bind if I let it up slow. I'm not sure what was causing it but I think the cracked fork was. The pedal it self would come all the way up because it had its own spring and lifted away from the master cylinder that it just pushed against.

Does the actual pedal stop, or does the clutch not engage but pedal moves fine?

Oh wow hahah! Its the actual pedal itself, if I release it fast, like instantly in neutral with the car on or off it will raise half way right before the engagement point, pause for maybe .5 seconds and then spring up the rest of the way. It also does this same thing when driving fast and I shift at a high rpm. If I'm just cruisin through town shifting normal, its conpletely fine. No mechanic around here can think of what it would be! Clutch Masters said to re bleed it for a third time and use a vaccume bleeder, also with the front of the car raised.

 

[Eric Smit]

well this is a tricky biscuit.

 

[Preloader]

Well, I have had a lot of experience in this area. I was gonna ask, if you pull the pedal up manually with your hand, does it still try to stop halfway?

I was initially thinking you might have a damaged slave, but if the seal was breached, you'd have no pressure on the pedal, and the car would be inoperable.

Check the return spring..... The spring should be pulling the pedal back up.

 

[SONIC1.4]

Well, I have had a lot of experience in this area. I was gonna ask, if you pull the pedal up manually with your hand, does it still try to stop halfway?

I was initially thinking you might have a damaged slave, but if the seal was breached, you'd have no pressure on the pedal, and the car would be inoperable.

Check the return spring..... The spring should be pulling the pedal back up.

Well I can't techniqually pull the pedal up because it springs up by itself. If I pushed the pedal in with my hand and then let up, the pedal will pop up like normal. What am I suppose to check on the return spring? I just don't understand what would cause it. I press the pedal to the floor, let it up at a normal speed, it works as it should. If I press it to the floor and then let off immediately, it comes up like it should, then stops half way, makes a air sound like pshhhhh and then continues up normally from the half way point.. WTF COULD IT BE

 

[Preloader]

Could be air trapped down in the slave. Bleeding it won't get that air out, but it should work its way up and out over time.

Give it some time to see if it gets better.

Keep tabs on your fluid reservoir. Make sure it's not dropping.

 

[SONIC1.4]

Could be air trapped down in the slave. Bleeding it won't get that air out, but it should work its way up and out over time.

Give it some time to see if it gets better.

Keep tabs on your fluid reservoir. Make sure it's not dropping.

I've put like 300 miles on it the first bleed.. what will happen if air were to work its way out of the slave? Would I need to blees it AGAIN? And I will keep an eye out on the fluid! Lets get this ish figured out!!!

 

[SONIC1.4]

I'm going to leave the clutch pedal pushed in overnight to see if it helps anything. I put the rubber end of a plunger into my shoe and tied it tight. I then pushed it down as if it were a leg, pulled the seat all the way forward, and then put a pillow in between the seat and the plunger handle. Thats all I got. I'm going to leave it like that for maybe an hour for now. Then I'm going to go drive it, come home and let it sit with the pedal pressed down overnight. Wish me luck. If this works, I'm headed down the street and buying a lottery ticket.

 

[Preloader]

Don't know if you're on Facebook, but try this link:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=738160219550467

Maybe try leaving the fluid reservoir cap off while letting it rest and/or pumping it.