Does turbo require premium gas?
- Thread starter tubasonic
- Start date
Boost
Banned
yes
Shorts answer, YES. Trust me on this. Just look at my user name LOL. I can quote many articles / explanations, but for now I will just say that the $2 / $3 / $4 difference if WELL worth the increased safety (reliability), economy and performance. Traditionally, turbo cars always need the highest available octane as a rule of thumb, these newer cars can run on regular but like crap, and don't even think about performance on regular. Hope that helps.
Shorts answer, YES. Trust me on this. Just look at my user name LOL. I can quote many articles / explanations, but for now I will just say that the $2 / $3 / $4 difference if WELL worth the increased safety (reliability), economy and performance. Traditionally, turbo cars always need the highest available octane as a rule of thumb, these newer cars can run on regular but like crap, and don't even think about performance on regular. Hope that helps.
Rand0m0sityxX
New member
For the sake of the car, pay the extra little bit (It's like $.40 here) and use premium, it will run its best on it.
I believe it will also need Synthetic oil, so if you change it yourself, don't use conventional.
I believe it will also need Synthetic oil, so if you change it yourself, don't use conventional.
LorbeerTLC
Member
However, normal daily driving say's Regular is ok
In the Chevrolet Sonic Owner's Manual, they recommend (during normal driving conditions). Regular 87 octane. It also recommends "Top Tier Gasoline" too. Here's what it say's from 9-35 "Driving and Operating"
Recommended Fuel
Use regular unleaded gasoline with
a posted octane rating of 87 or
higher. If the octane rating is less
than 87, an audible knocking noise,
commonly referred to as spark
knock, might be heard when driving.
If this occurs, use a gasoline rated
at 87 octane or higher as soon as
possible. If heavy knocking is heard
when using gasoline rated at
87 octane or higher, the engine
needs service.
Under Oil, GM "Requires" this "dexos 1" oil if you want to be safe and keep it under warranty (I have no idea why).
Here's a tidbit from the Sonic Owners Manual, under "Vehicle Care" in 10-11:
Specification
Use and ask for licensed engine oils with the dexos1TM approved certification mark. Engine oils meeting the requirements for the vehicle should have the dexos1 approved certification mark. This certification mark indicates that the oil has been approved to the dexos1 specification.
Notice: Failure to use the recommended engine oil or equivalent can result in engine damage not covered by the
vehicle warranty. Check with your dealer or service provider on whether the oil is approved to the dexos1 specification.
Viscosity Grade
SAE 5W‐30 is the best viscosity grade for the vehicle. Do not use other viscosity grade oils such as SAE 10W‐30, 10W‐40, or 20W‐50.
If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), an SAE 0W‐30 oil should be used. An oil of this viscosity grade will provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. When selecting an oil of the appropriate viscosity grade, always select an oil that meets the dexos1 specification or equivalent. See “Specification” for more information.
In the Chevrolet Sonic Owner's Manual, they recommend (during normal driving conditions). Regular 87 octane. It also recommends "Top Tier Gasoline" too. Here's what it say's from 9-35 "Driving and Operating"
Recommended Fuel
Use regular unleaded gasoline with
a posted octane rating of 87 or
higher. If the octane rating is less
than 87, an audible knocking noise,
commonly referred to as spark
knock, might be heard when driving.
If this occurs, use a gasoline rated
at 87 octane or higher as soon as
possible. If heavy knocking is heard
when using gasoline rated at
87 octane or higher, the engine
needs service.
Under Oil, GM "Requires" this "dexos 1" oil if you want to be safe and keep it under warranty (I have no idea why).
Here's a tidbit from the Sonic Owners Manual, under "Vehicle Care" in 10-11:
Specification
Use and ask for licensed engine oils with the dexos1TM approved certification mark. Engine oils meeting the requirements for the vehicle should have the dexos1 approved certification mark. This certification mark indicates that the oil has been approved to the dexos1 specification.
Notice: Failure to use the recommended engine oil or equivalent can result in engine damage not covered by the
vehicle warranty. Check with your dealer or service provider on whether the oil is approved to the dexos1 specification.
Viscosity Grade
SAE 5W‐30 is the best viscosity grade for the vehicle. Do not use other viscosity grade oils such as SAE 10W‐30, 10W‐40, or 20W‐50.
If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), an SAE 0W‐30 oil should be used. An oil of this viscosity grade will provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. When selecting an oil of the appropriate viscosity grade, always select an oil that meets the dexos1 specification or equivalent. See “Specification” for more information.
laborsmith
New member
Dexos I is another name for full synthetic, such as Mobil One. These oils are recommended for all performance engines and I am of the belief any forced induction engine should be considered a performance engine, no matter its displacement. The Corvette oil cap specifies "Mobil One" right on it.
I have noticed Top Tier as recommended in the past, and have decided it is more a marketing tool. Part of the reason for so deciding is BP is not included, and I know about the Gulf Oil Disaster, but the gasoline itself certainly meets or exceeds even the most stringent standards. I remember reading numerous postings on this several years ago, but do not feel inclined to redo a search, but the info is out there if you are so inclined. The consensus of my research is reflected in this paragraph.
Ferrari has long recommended Shell gas for its products. I see that as similar to recommending Top Tier. My memory says Shell is one of the Top Tier brand gasolines.
Laborsmith
I have noticed Top Tier as recommended in the past, and have decided it is more a marketing tool. Part of the reason for so deciding is BP is not included, and I know about the Gulf Oil Disaster, but the gasoline itself certainly meets or exceeds even the most stringent standards. I remember reading numerous postings on this several years ago, but do not feel inclined to redo a search, but the info is out there if you are so inclined. The consensus of my research is reflected in this paragraph.
Ferrari has long recommended Shell gas for its products. I see that as similar to recommending Top Tier. My memory says Shell is one of the Top Tier brand gasolines.
Laborsmith
LorbeerTLC
Member
A bad experience...
Years ago after my wife bought a new car, we were regularly purchasing gasoline from a "no-name" gas station (similar to COSTCO). It was cheaper than the "Top Tier" stations and I figured with few minor differences, all gasoline sold in the US had to meet some sort of US federal requirement.
We had been filling her car at the same place for about 1 year and in doing so, I noticed that over time her fuel gauge wouldn't come up to "FULL" anymore. In fact, it would now only come up to about 3/4 FULL.
Since the car was still in warranty, I took it in to have it checked. After leaving it there, I received a phone call where the mechanic told me the warranty would not cover the repairs. When I stopped by to understand why, he showed me the sending unit. It was completely covered in this pink powdery/goo substance and said the whole gas tank and fuel lines would have to be cleaned and/or replaced. This included the carburetor too. Evidently, the fuel's pink dye that they use to distinguish between regular, mid-grade, and premium had over time contaminated everything and was rendering the sending unit inoperable. They were also concerned that it would eventually affect the fuel pump as well.
Since I didn't keep our fuel receipts and we always paid in cash, I didn't pursue to have the gas station pay for our repairs. It would have been a "He Said/She Said" dispute that probably go into small claims & it wasn't worth it.
The mechanic recommended "Top Tier" because even though it may cost a little more, they are the best and it will give me peace-of-mind.
Since then, I have never had that happen again.
Years ago after my wife bought a new car, we were regularly purchasing gasoline from a "no-name" gas station (similar to COSTCO). It was cheaper than the "Top Tier" stations and I figured with few minor differences, all gasoline sold in the US had to meet some sort of US federal requirement.
We had been filling her car at the same place for about 1 year and in doing so, I noticed that over time her fuel gauge wouldn't come up to "FULL" anymore. In fact, it would now only come up to about 3/4 FULL.
Since the car was still in warranty, I took it in to have it checked. After leaving it there, I received a phone call where the mechanic told me the warranty would not cover the repairs. When I stopped by to understand why, he showed me the sending unit. It was completely covered in this pink powdery/goo substance and said the whole gas tank and fuel lines would have to be cleaned and/or replaced. This included the carburetor too. Evidently, the fuel's pink dye that they use to distinguish between regular, mid-grade, and premium had over time contaminated everything and was rendering the sending unit inoperable. They were also concerned that it would eventually affect the fuel pump as well.
Since I didn't keep our fuel receipts and we always paid in cash, I didn't pursue to have the gas station pay for our repairs. It would have been a "He Said/She Said" dispute that probably go into small claims & it wasn't worth it.
The mechanic recommended "Top Tier" because even though it may cost a little more, they are the best and it will give me peace-of-mind.
Since then, I have never had that happen again.
laborsmith
New member
What Boost said! Which is the point I was trying to say two posts up. And is also what I learned as I went through so many threads when I was researching "Top Tier." He just stated it better.
Laborsmith
Laborsmith
LorbeerTLC
Member
*Thumbs-Up* Chevron
Yup!
Since then I've been with Chevron and have never had a problem since!
Yup!
Since then I've been with Chevron and have never had a problem since!
As a rule of thumb from a guy who DDs (when home) a high HP Turbo car, use the higest quality available fluids you can. I only run 91 (or E85 - tuned for it) and use Mobil 1 synthetic. Use fluids in the drivetrain such as redline shockproof. If my Evo can last on it, I am sure 138HP Sonic will benefit from it. What you put into your car now will save you hassle in the long run.
AxelRipper
Member
The 1.4 only requires 87, but you will most likely get more power/fuel economy on 93 due to how the engine calibration works.
I can't help but think you're pissing your money away putting in 93 if the car is tuned for 87. The car might even run worse on slower burning high-octane fuel.
My motorcycle sure as hell hates premium- but it runs perfectly on 87. Sure, modern EFI systems (like what is in the Sonic) are smart enough to compensate a little bit, but I would just run the recommended fuel (regular).
That's all null and void once you get a premium fuel tune though
My motorcycle sure as hell hates premium- but it runs perfectly on 87. Sure, modern EFI systems (like what is in the Sonic) are smart enough to compensate a little bit, but I would just run the recommended fuel (regular).
That's all null and void once you get a premium fuel tune though
AxelRipper
Member
I can't help but think you're pissing your money away putting in 93 if the car is tuned for 87. The car might even run worse on slower burning high-octane fuel.
My motorcycle sure as hell hates premium- but it runs perfectly on 87. Sure, modern EFI systems (like what is in the Sonic) are smart enough to compensate a little bit, but I would just run the recommended fuel (regular).
That's all null and void once you get a premium fuel tune though
I work for GM Powertrain. Modern engines are not tuned for just one grade of fuel, but multiple grades and use a series of sensors to compensate for the grade of gas. If you put 93 in, the engine will compensate for its benefits, but it will also run just fine on 91 or 87. Will you notice the difference? I'm not sure as I havent driven back to back yet, but I definitely will try it once I get mine to see what happens.
TravsSonic
New member
it will run on 87.. it will even run on 104 race fuel. (pretty peppy btw) If you get a tune you will have to run premium.
This engine in a almost 3000 lb car is a dog, 5th and 6th are useless unless your on the freeway and downshifting to get enough steam up to pass someone sucks because 6th flat on the floor won't accelerate it. (the turbo won't spool till about 2300 and you'll be just short of that.. can you say.. gutless)
but anyway, back to the question.. yes it will run on it but don't bother with it. Find yourself a nice E0 station, stay away from the E10 garbage, and run premium.
This engine in a almost 3000 lb car is a dog, 5th and 6th are useless unless your on the freeway and downshifting to get enough steam up to pass someone sucks because 6th flat on the floor won't accelerate it. (the turbo won't spool till about 2300 and you'll be just short of that.. can you say.. gutless)
but anyway, back to the question.. yes it will run on it but don't bother with it. Find yourself a nice E0 station, stay away from the E10 garbage, and run premium.
RockTheShazbot
New member
Just curious what is so bad about E10?
TravsSonic
New member
whats not wrong with it should be the question. Its a fuel source that has absolutely zero redeeming qualities.
-Any ethanol in a fuel source, via piston rings and valve guides, eventually finds its way to your valve stems and the cams. Both experience accelerated levels of wear compared to E0.
-Then you have the high levels of particulate build up on the valves themselves, E0 will produce almost none.
-Valve faces experience accelerated wear as well.
-lets add in that you WILL get worse gas mileage on E10 than E0, its a fact that nobody can argue. This is just a little test i did the last week for kicks and giggles, I took a 2001 chevy s-10. It was completely empty, i filled it with 87 grade E0 and spent the entire day driving all over central arkansas running errands. Drove out the entire tank. Filled it up the tank next with 87 E10 and spent the 2nd day doing the exact same routine driving to the exact same places (talk about boring). Filled up the 3rd morning at the E0 station again. The results were
E0 = 23 mpg
E10= 18 mpg
same route, same driver, same times of day, same driving style, even the temps outside were the within a degree or two. Only difference was the gas.
-Lets see what else is wrong.. how about the government pays the fuel companies $0.51/gal (last i heard) to mix that crap into the E0 because they want the iowa corn farmers to have a guaranteed market. Your tax dollars hard at work.
-It is not a cleaner fuel, look at california with their super strict policies. 5.75% ethanol is the norm there because it produces to much pollution.
what else...
-the cost to produce it, if you count all the machinery fuel usages, transportation, man hours, blah blah blah.. all the crap it takes from start to finish to make a gallon of ethanol = a gallon of gas. So they spend a gallon of gas to make a gallon of ethanol, but since they have a forced market by the federal government the growers get paid a subsidy to make a big fat zero energy crop.. More wasted tax dollars
-it drives up the food prices.. all the corn farmers corn isn't being used for what its suppose to be used for.. FOOD!!
-GM as well as all the other major auto manufacturers are suing the EPA right now for approving E15, plus they are all stating that if E15 makes it to the pumps and you put it in your car.. poof.. no warranty.
-even the crazy germans have boycotted it at the pumps forcing their fuel companies to quit mixing it. And that was just back in May of this year if i remember right.
It truly is a fascinating topic that has really grabbed my attention recently, and once i started really digging into all the newest research about ethanol it was clear that it is nothing but a political agenda that lines a very select few peoples pockets at everyone else in the countries expense.
i'll not throw the links in here for supporting documents, but if someone wants them, i'll hunt them down and you can read them for yourself. But it'll benefit you more if you just go research it and come to your own conclusions.
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