Car Shuddering While Accelerating

[Leroy Jenkins]

It doesn't happen every time but I can recreate it most if I am going around 45-65 MPH (automatic transmission) and hit anything over 2500 RPM. It's hard to explain what I'm experiencing but it feel like I am driving over a bunch of speed bumps. Gas pedal flutters like a spongy brake pedal. K&N Cold Air Intake sounds like if you take a can of compressed air and pull the trigger on it as fast as you can over and over for a few seconds. Feels like I lose power but I'm still accelerating. I've tried to record it but you cant hear it in the videos I've taken.

I suspect it's something in the engine. It shifts fine but this issue is hard to diagnose because there is no code being thrown.

I first noticed this after having my oil changed then driving an average on 80-85 mph pretty consistently for about 6 hours driving across state. Oil levels are right where they should be so it's not that.

I am at a complete loss and will try to help answer any questions you all have.

 

[christian4917]

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_tid=23449&share_fid=38994&share_type=t

Sounds like you are having the same issue a lot of us are having. I have been running through spark plugs. No codes thrown. Take a look on that thread. Youbetails is trying out the MSD coil pack to see if that helps thinking maybe its a spark issue. Could be a boost/vacuum leak which is what trifecta seems to think it is for me.

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[Leroy Jenkins]

Thanks for sharing! I will check it out right now!

 

[SourKandi]

I just started having a shuddering problem- happens when accelerating harder/faster than when just moping around town (like pulling into traffic, getting up to speed when hopping on the freeway, downshifting into passing gear)

No codes, but honestly it’s run like crap for a long time, this is a new thing in the last 2 weeks.

Automatic turbo, completely stock. Replaced plugs at 50K, 86K on the car now.

It might be a transmission issue, I believe I have yet another fluid leak (have not confirmed that’s what is leaking) Also feel like turbo is not kicking in when it should. Sometimes it jumps right up and goes, other times it lags so much I’ve almost been hit jumping out in traffic.

The shudder almost feels like a tire all of a sudden is about to fall off and is wiggling side to side. All tires are secure so it’s something engine related.

 

[christian4917]

What year? Could be mounts? Our engines have a lot of motion and when you step on it, the engine really winds up before laying the power down and the mounts are pretty soft. As for power loss, could be a boost leak. Have you tested it for leaks?

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[SourKandi]

When I first felt it my first thought was ‘is that engine mounts?’ I’m capable of doing a lot of things but not sure I have equipment available for checking for leaks, don’t physically see or hear any-

I have a 2013 manufactured in ‘12;

No codes thrown since before new turbo went on 3 years ago.

 

[christian4917]

Yeah i am in the process of testing mine as well. Just found a huge split in one of the lines coming off the bypass solenoid and it wasn't throwing any codes so I wouldn't rely on that. You can DIY a tester if you have an air compressor. Just do a quick search on youtube.

Could be a lot of other issues as well. Could be ignition related, clogged fuel filter. Etc. Ic you havent changed your plugs recently, thats a quick and cheap thing to rule out. Do you have any mods?

As far as the engine mounts, theyre mushy from the factory along with there only being 3 mounts instead of a lot of cars having 4. They only get worse with age. Theres a couple aftermarket solutions for those but they have poly cores and they will transfer more vibration and noise from the engine to the cab vs the stock mounts. Racerx is working on a solution they teased just a few days ago as well that basically adds another mount.

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[Maddmatts]

This might be a long shot but has anyone checked their intercoolers for water? As the weather gets cooler, the humidity might be precipitating out of the air charge. The shuddering could be the engine trying to pull air through a buildup of water.

 

[christian4917]

Hmmm havent thought of that [emoji848] might have to give that a look. I know I for sure have oil in there from lack of a catch can and the PCV just dumping into the turbo inlet. So assuming I put a catch can in and it is only water in there, how would one prevent that? You cant just drill a drain hole in there?

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[Maddmatts]

It's been a common issue for VW TDI's and Ford F150 Ecoboosts. Their fix was to drill a tiny weep hole or threaded hole for a drain plug in the bottom of the endtank. It should work for us too although a weephole will likely change fuel trims as it will be letting some metered air out under boost.

 

[christian4917]

Hmmm drain valve could probably work. Although you would still need to tilt it to the drain side. Im just wondering if its really worth it?

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[airmech827]

Gonna bump this thread. I too am having acceleration issues. And it happens typically if I am hard on the throttle. Twice now I get the flashing cel and it eventually goes away. I am going to do plugs this week as I inherited this car almost 30k ago and it now has 140k on the clock. Good little commuter for me as I drive approx 700 miles a week in it. Bone stock. My other question is could it be a throttle position sensor? Does it even have one? New to the sonic but a fairly competent wrench. No codes at all. Any input is super welcome. Thanks!

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[gnonne]

Way overdue for a coil pack at 140K....

 

[airmech827]

Way overdue for a coil pack at 140K....

Update: I haven't had the time or money to change it yet and it seems to be getting worse.
Questions: will it eventually just die? Will I cause damage to the engine if I continue to drive it until I can change it?

Of course now it happens more frequently regardless of what gear I am in or speed. It seems to be affected by pedal position and rpm. And worse after it is warmed up. When the car is cold it isn't very noticeable.

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[JTee2017]

Update: I haven't had the time or money to change it yet and it seems to be getting worse.
Questions: will it eventually just die? Will I cause damage to the engine if I continue to drive it until I can change it?

Of course now it happens more frequently regardless of what gear I am in or speed. It seems to be affected by pedal position and rpm. And worse after it is warmed up. When the car is cold it isn't very noticeable.

Just a guess . . at idle and no boost. .. . the spark is strong enough to fire so when cold is ok. Once hot if a coil is failing, like all electronics it will get worse as the temperature increases.

As throttle and boost increases, so does fuel and pressure. So. .. . it may be with weak spark, it's too much and fails to ignite properly.
Spark blow out, etc. . . whatever.

In any case. .. . . weak or intermittent spark is not good for the engine or catalytic converters.
With improper spark. .. it is causing a richer unburned gas in the exhaust. This will shorten the cat life and could even damage it.

With ECM/PCM electronic engine control, the programming expects everything to be operating within parameters. If something is wrong. . the electronics tries to compensate. . . . until it can't. Then, eventually a DTC will result and a CEL.

 

[airmech827]

Thanks to all for the input. I have a new coil pack and a new set of plugs to go with it. I need to do it tonight but that may wait as it us raining and my garage is currently nothing more than a storage unit. Lol. I will post an update once they are swapped out. Thanks again brothers and sisters.

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[h2ofreeze]

2012 Manual Turbo XLT with 145K miles - I've found if I really step on the gas and get above 2000 RPM then the engine sputters, kind of like a misfire. Replaced coil pack some 40K miles ago along with new plugs, so I don't think that is it. Acting like a clogged fuel filter if it were another vehicle. Today it just threw code P0171, so I'm suspecting fuel-side problem. Thoughts? Suggestions?

 

[airmech827]

Update, car runs like a scalded dog. No offense to dog lovers as I am one too. Swapped out the coil pack and plugs and the car hasn't run this strkng since I got it from my daughter in Feb 2020. Pro tip, the coil pack isn't supposed to look like the one that came out. The broken stud, plug lead, was definitely the source of my cylinder 1 misfire and shuddering during acceleration .

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[Zypher]

Did you ever have any stalling issues? I have a 2012 LT sedan automatic 1.8L that has stalled on me at idle or coming to idle 3 times this year. Once was after sitting out in freezing weather in February, so I chalked it up to that. But then it stalled as I pulled back into my garage after running some close by errands in April, and again 7/3 at a stoplight after driving 20 min. Every time it started right back up no problem.

On 7/11 I was driving for about 20 min, had been up to 75mph and was back down to 45mph for a few miles, but then it lurched and shuddered, then shuddered any time I accelerated. I was able to pull over and it was fine upon restart. I've had weird issues with the tachometer just cutting out mid drive. Again all is well after a restart.

Will probably make a new post, but just had the spark plugs replaced 6/7, replaced cam covers because they were leaking, and did a fuel system flush...I guess that didn't fix it.

The shuddering is new and my searching landed me here (though I realize it's the turbo forum). It's exactly as you described, and the road was very torn up so it was probably exaggerating the problem even more. No codes. My mechanic was at a loss pre-shudder. Debating taking it to the dealer, or maybe just trading it in. But it's been tried and true so far. I'm the original owner and have been doing my own oil and filter changes since 2017.