Help!!! P0016 cam/crank correlation

[SoggyWafle]

So I have a 2014 Sonic 1.8L that I just bought. It currently has 55k miles on it. I keep getting a P0016 code that pops up after I clear the code. It usually takes two engine cycles to pop up. So far I have replaced the intake camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor with ACDelco replacements. I inspected the intake cam reluctor wheel through the oil fill hole and it looks fine. It's welded to camshaft so I don't think it could cause any problems. I removed the top timing belt cover and inspected the belt and it seems to be tight and in good condition. I took a multimeter to the intake and exhaust camshaft position sensor connectors and I was getting 5V on the connectors and they have good grounds. The car starts up and drives fines, though it is a little shaky at idle, kinda feels like a bad motor mount but I think its related to the P0016 since cam position codes retard or advance timing (I forget which way) to protect the engine. I really don't want to have to take it to the dealer because they always screw customers over and never solve the problem the first time. Tomorrow I'm going to set the crank at TDC and see if the cams are timed up right. When I took off the timing belt cover the first time, I didn't notice any obvious timing marks on the cams and I haven't been able to find a decent picture online. I suspect that the timing is going to be fine since the car drives fine and has no hesitation during any throttle position.

My question is what else could cause the P0016 code? I would think the crank reluctor wheel but I think that would be a different code than P0016.

 

[skurtov]

It advances timing to protect the engine from knock. Is there two camshaft sensors? Or one? If I'm not mistaken we have VVT on both sides exhaust and intake.

 

[SoggyWafle]

There are two camshaft position sensors. I replaced the intake one because from what I read online, P0016 is related to the intake cam and P0017 is for the exhaust cam.

 

[SoggyWafle]

So, it looks like I'm one tooth off. It is the original timing belt but it looks to be in good condition. I didn't think it was likely that a cam could jump a tooth like that. The intake cam is on the left and the exhaust is on the right. The question now is, which cam gear is off? Since the P0016 code is for the intake cam, I'm guessing the intake cam is off. I don't want to adjust the wrong cam and end up being 2 teeth off and then pistons start slapping valves. Also, with DOHC motors, how do I hold one cam in place while I adjust the other?

 

[skurtov]

Usually what happens is that the belt will elongate over usage. That's what my 1.8T VW did, I would not be surprised if that's the case here too. I don't remember what the tolerance was, whether it was half a tooth off or one tooth. As far as the tools go, GM has special cam lockers that fit in.

 

[SoggyWafle]

So, from here I should replace the timing belt and tensioner, and the code should be clear and I'm good to go? If I lock the cams in current position, install the new belt and tensioner, theoretically, the cams should get pulled back in line with the timing marks, correct?

 

[rojoes]

Good deal my cousin got includes belt,pulley& tensioner
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4374078&cc=3434393&jsn=9

 

[SoggyWafle]

So I ordered the timing belt kit from rockauto and a cam locking tool set from amazon and replaced the timing belt, tensioner, and pulley. I pulled the valve cover and noticed that I could not get the cam lock tool to fit into the intake and exhaust cam simultaneously because the belt was one tooth off on the intake cam. So, I removed the belt, and rotated the intake cam one tooth and then locked the cams in place. From there, I reinstalled the new belt and it was smooth sailing from there. While I was working on the car, I noticed some paperwork in the car for some work the dealership did that might have involved them taking off the timing belt. I had just purchased this car so I was unaware of the work that was done by the dealer. I'm guessing the intake cam shifted one tooth off when the dealer was putting everything back together. Another reason not to take your car to the dealer.

 

[gnonne]

How much trouble is it to get the engine mount and other things out of the way to do these timing belt changes? Thinking about doing the belt on may wife's 2012 1.8L with 82k before the coming winter.

 

[skurtov]

So I ordered the timing belt kit from rockauto and a cam locking tool set from amazon and replaced the timing belt, tensioner, and pulley. I pulled the valve cover and noticed that I could not get the cam lock tool to fit into the intake and exhaust cam simultaneously because the belt was one tooth off on the intake cam. So, I removed the belt, and rotated the intake cam one tooth and then locked the cams in place. From there, I reinstalled the new belt and it was smooth sailing from there. While I was working on the car, I noticed some paperwork in the car for some work the dealership did that might have involved them taking off the timing belt. I had just purchased this car so I was unaware of the work that was done by the dealer. I'm guessing the intake cam shifted one tooth off when the dealer was putting everything back together. Another reason not to take your car to the dealer.

Glad everything worked out. Sorry I didn't get back to this thread but it seems like you managed to sort it out just fine.

 

[SoggyWafle]

How much trouble is it to get the engine mount and other things out of the way to do these timing belt changes? Thinking about doing the belt on may wife's 2012 1.8L with 82k before the coming winter.

It was pretty easy if you don't have to adjust the cam timing. Buy the cam lock tool and belt kit and you'll be fine. Basically, remove passenger front wheel, remove the plastic covers from under the engine, remove the air filter, remove the top timing belt cover, set the timing at TDC, install the cam lock tool, remove the serpentine belt, remove the serpentine belt tensioner, remove crank pulley, support the engine, remove passenger motor mount, then remove the bottom and middle timing belt cover. After that's all done, you have access to the timing belt and all you do it loosen the tensioner, remove the belt, replace the timing tensioner and pulley and install a new belt. Then put everything back together. I could probably do it in 2 hours now that I know how to do it. I would say you don't have to remove the valve cover unless you want to install both cam lock tools.

 

[skurtov]

It was pretty easy if you don't have to adjust the cam timing. Buy the cam lock tool and belt kit and you'll be fine. Basically, remove passenger front wheel, remove the plastic covers from under the engine, remove the air filter, remove the top timing belt cover, set the timing at TDC, install the cam lock tool, remove the serpentine belt, remove the serpentine belt tensioner, remove crank pulley, support the engine, remove passenger motor mount, then remove the bottom and middle timing belt cover. After that's all done, you have access to the timing belt and all you do it loosen the tensioner, remove the belt, replace the timing tensioner and pulley and install a new belt. Then put everything back together. I could probably do it in 2 hours now that I know how to do it. I would say you don't have to remove the valve cover unless you want to install both cam lock tools.

Well if you ever get around to it.... do a write up. Us 1.4 owners have all that chain driven goodness <3