Alright I'm a little bit over my head at this point when it comes to repairing this CEL. I've had the P2076 code for about a year now and while it hasn't really affected performance all that much, I still don't like having it there all the time.
Now I understand that pretty much every one on the internet will suggest getting a new actuator arm or drilling it into place because it wears out and tends to pop out, but that is NOT the case with my car and the actuator stays in place and moves when it enters in and out of the rev range.
I did try and clean my throttle body a little bit with some cleaner but the light turned back on after a couple days.
All I want to know is if there are any other common fixes known for this code aside from the actuator one that I could try? Obviously outright replacing the intake manifold would be a last ditch scenario due to cost and complexity of the job.
My car is a 2014 model
Cobod,
were you able to find a fix for the p2076 code???
I am experiencing the same problem. i feel you ! replacing the Intake manifold is the last ditch scenario ! ughhh. dealership charges 1,2000 tax not included.
Here is my story.
I HAD the p2076 code. I needed to find a fix because in the state and county that I live , the check engine light cannot be on. otherwise , my vehicle will not pass inspection. without a pass in inspection i cannot renew tags and registration.
Anyways.....
I troubleshooted and read the threads on this forum.
at first i clean the throttle body. It did no resolve the code.
following week. I replaced the throttle body with a NEW one. Code still did not go away.
after so much research I decided to get a used ACTUATOR. I was 100% sure that this will be the fix, because I did notice the stupid little arm everyone keeps saying to replace did not move IN A: DOWN and UP motion when I will press on the gas.
* When i turned on the car, the mechanism (actuator and arm piece) will move down, and it will NOT go back up when i pressed on the gas.
***This is a link to a video that helped me decide that the actuator was the fix: it is in SPANISH.
.
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I could not find a NEW ACTUATOR part, since every site does not sell the Actuator alone, the sites sell the ENTIRE MANIFOLD SYSTEM with the ACTUATOR attached.
after installing the actuator ( this is a small motor that controls the movement of that darn stupid little arm everyone keeps saying to replace.) In my case. the arm was not popped out at all. It did seem worn out on the bottom nipple. But like i said i ended up buying a used actuator and a new arm just to go the extra mile.
so after the installing of the actuator and the arm.
I did notice that the whole mechanism of the actuator and arm would go up and down when i would give it some Rev. the mechanism moves up and down when it enters in and out of the rev range.
Soo... I was happy that the p2076 code went away by installing the actuator along with the arm. again, the arm was not the fix, i put in a new arm JUST TO GO THE EXTRA MILE.
Fast forward,
I took my car to a small oil lube place to get inspection done , It all went good. It passed.
I drove it to the tag office to renew my plates and registration.
THEN
I turned the car on. and the stupid check engine light came on.
I immediately went back to the oil lube place and told them what happened.
they said it was a mechanical issue. they were no help.
so i then took it to an auto parts store to have an OBD test done.
the tester picked up a code and yeah you guessed it.
P2076 code AGAIN !!!
At this point Idk what to do.
I have read online that the code will eventually go away on its on and return back again.
It worries me because come next year I will need to figure it out so that my car can pass inspection again.
Here in North Carolina, in the county that i live in, my vehicle cannot have the check engine light on. It will not pass inspection.
This car has been a naissance honestly.
any help out there???
