Review my audio buy list. Need help with install questions.

[davethecota]

Ok rather than making several different threads I wanted to make myself a single thread with a few of my questions and concerns about my audio installation.

Goal: I am looking for a quality sounding system that I can play somewhat loud within the car but I don't want to bother the neighbors. I am also looking to maintain the factory headunit. For simplicity reasons I want only a single amp and I am not using rear fill speakers. I also can't afford to give up cargo space to traditional subwoofer set-ups.

Budget: I am trying to stay under around 750 dollars for all the parts.

Music type: Typically I have a wide range of music I listen to so I can't really tailor to a single type. Anywhere from Electronic to Metal to Country.


Current purchase list:

Vibration reduction: Secondskin damplifier
Damplifier 10 sq. feet - 10 DAMP - Second Skin Audio

Door speaker sound improvement: Speaker Tweakers
Speaker Tweaker Kit - Second Skin Audio

Sound Processor from factory headunit: LC2i
AudioControl LC2i (lc2i) White 2 Channel Line Output Converter (LC2/i)

Front Stage: Imagine I61-2V2 6.5" Component Set
Imagine I61-2V2 6.5" Component / Coaxial Speaker Set - 12v Electronics

Stealth Sub: Pioneer TS-SWX2502
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 (tsswx2502) 1200W 10" Shallow-Mount TS Series

Single Amplifier: Hifonics X800.4
Hifonics X800.4 Brutus X-14 Series 800W 4-Channel Amplifier

Amp Install Kit: NVX XKIT44
NVX XKIT44 100% Copper 4 Gauge Car Amp Install Kit w/ 4-Ch RCA

Total Estimated Cost with shipping : 755.00


Now question time:

1) Is there a place I can tap into the front speakers for the digital processor before that signal hits a crossover from the factory tweeter? I am hoping an area I can get to without taking apart the center console but I will if I have to. I am assuming there is a crossover somewhere but I need to splice in before that so I can get a full signal.


2) As I am not using the rear door speakers for anything is it worth in spending time to put in some vibration reduction at that location? I planned on just doing the front doors, the spare tire area and maybe the back hatch.


3) Is mounting an aftermarket tweeter viable in the stock location or will I have to use the area next to the side mirror?

 

[kevinm]

Hi Dave!

I had similar goals and here is my thread http://www.sonicownersforum.com/for...adunit-but-replacing-speakers-adding-amp.html

I recommend using something like Fosgate amp I purchased. It accepts line-level inputs, so no need for the LOC/Processor.

Also in my thread, it is fairly easy to replace the tweeters, so I would recommend a component speaker system. This comes with a mid-woofer (door speaker) and a tweeter with a crossover. Very easy to install and practically drops in. I'm looking for a new component system myself, so I don't want to recommend a set as I am not satisfied with my Polks.

I also recommend a different sub. I use a ported Dayton Audio 8in sub in compartment under my trunk. That Polk is a fairly low-end performer and can be beaten by a nice DIY sub for 1/4 of its price. I use this and it kills for me Dayton Audio SD215A-88 8" DVC Subwoofer

Caveat - I don't want bass that blurs my vision. I just like to fill in the bottom end missing from most stereos with clean, detailed sound.

You'll also need new mounting brackets for the door speakers - see my post.

 

[SonicSteve]

Might i suggest pro audio mid woofers and tweeters of your choice. Look at a pwx 6.5 inch mid from crescendo audio. And possibly a dayton nd25ta tweeter... 2 very cheap high end performers... understanding the pwx is a mid range...no bass. Utilizing the sub to fill in that area can be a big help. A simple line output converter will do to get your speaker signal to the amp. If youre using front speakers only...i would simply tap to rear channels for your line output converter and thus your fader becomes the signal control on the subwoofer. The stock deck is lacking that of course and balancing the sub output with the front stage can be done easily like that

Pwx mids are about 40 bucks
Daytons are like 10? Not sure on that one
An inline crossover on the tweeters 10 bucks
Use your amp and sub setup..good choice on ofc wire by the way stick with ofc by all means and ask away if you have any questions
For what its worth im currently running a fully active 6 speaker 6 tweeter system 2 amps and a single 12 on 2k in my car. Full active setup and i love it.

 

[Jcordo93]

Use Dynamat, it works really well with these little cars. I wrapped my whole inside with dynamat and I can play my music at normal volume/I can even listen to it kinda loud with the right EQ without setting off an alarm or disturbing the public.

 

[kevinm]

SonicSteve, what are you using for your active crossovers? I am interested in going active as well. I've wondered about using home audio speakers in my car as well. They're such a better value.

 

[SPLLTZ]

Please for the love of god do not purchase dynamat, Much better deadener can be purchased at a much better value... The only reason Dynamat is so widely used is because it was the first main stream deadener (that made it big)

Second Skin Damplifier Pro, Sky High, Alpha Damp, thats just a few...

Also to the poster asking about home audio speakers...

Yes it is doable, and can turn out very nice, you have to take into consideration that you will need to be running active or use nice crossover networks in order to achieve ultimate SQ.

If you want some extremely nice quality, great sounding drivers, that are sensitive enough to to get nice and crisp on low power. goto Parts Express (google it) and look at Tang Band Drivers, I have owned several of there subwoofers (i have an 8" im working on for a home theater set up) (i would reccomend some SQ oriented amplifiers, (audio systems of germany, Mosconi, to name a few)

Anyways just my .02, im glad to be on this forum to help people with their builds! :banana::banana::banana::banana:

 

[SPLLTZ]

And as far as pro audio depending on the woofer alot of them have Freq response down to the middle 50's or 60's, I know Sundowns Neo Pro series are very punchy midbass/midrange pro audio speakers... Regardless i wouldnt recommend PA if hes trying to obtain SQ... PA is generally good for walled vehicles imo (Higher SPL oriented builds)

 

[SPLLTZ]

Might i suggest pro audio mid woofers and tweeters of your choice. Look at a pwx 6.5 inch mid from crescendo audio. And possibly a dayton nd25ta tweeter... 2 very cheap high end performers... understanding the pwx is a mid range...no bass. Utilizing the sub to fill in that area can be a big help. A simple line output converter will do to get your speaker signal to the amp. If youre using front speakers only...i would simply tap to rear channels for your line output converter and thus your fader becomes the signal control on the subwoofer. The stock deck is lacking that of course and balancing the sub output with the front stage can be done easily like that

Pwx mids are about 40 bucks
Daytons are like 10? Not sure on that one
An inline crossover on the tweeters 10 bucks
Use your amp and sub setup..good choice on ofc wire by the way stick with ofc by all means and ask away if you have any questions
For what its worth im currently running a fully active 6 speaker 6 tweeter system 2 amps and a single 12 on 2k in my car. Full active setup and i love it.

What single sub and what amplifier are you running sir might i ask? I have a single 12 on a 3k right now (2 ohm 1500 rms) so probably 800-1000 after box rise

Just curious

 

[SonicSteve]

Im running an ssa xcon d1 12. on an apsm 2k, box sees about 1.25x rise so im getting 1600 ish for power but its dirty. that amp is junk but it works. hittin a 143.2 right now on the meter and its louder on the dash, on music, sealed up. so thats something you dont see very often haha but thats actually how it should be. ill run down the rest of my setup quick

4 crescendo mp6 6.5" mids 2 in the front doors on pods and 2 in the rear stock location
2 precision power PT.2 super tweeters in fiberglass a pillars
2 alpine type s 4" coaxials fed bandpass and ultra high pass for a more controlled midrange and a rolloff that make the tweeter basically useless but it does help blend things as far as i can tell
2 dayton nd25ta ti tweeters in the kick as well

everything is ran active there are no crossovers used, only amp bandpass and hi lo pass for different ranges. 2 duralast gold t5 batts which are junk. stock alt. junk

That whole setup will be getting pulled in a few months even though its only been in my car for 2 months or so. its nowhere near loud enough for my taste

new setup will include 2 bc5500.1 or a ct sounds 7.1
3 ppi speaker amps 2 xs power d 3100 batts in the rear. no front batt. mechman 380 alt and 2 hdc4 15s. looking for a 55 in this car if not more.

no wall, below window line in the cargo area. it may get a stripper pole and the roof welded too..im not sure yet

side note...dynamat is absolutely horrid. i use fat mat on the door skins and 1/4 foam duct insulation on the door panel itself.
fiberglass batt insulation lightly stuffed in all other cavities, the car is almost silent from the outside with a 1/2" or better of windshield flex

 

[Jcordo93]

Please for the love of god do not purchase dynamat, Much better deadener can be purchased at a much better value... The only reason Dynamat is so widely used is because it was the first main stream deadener (that made it big)



Second Skin Damplifier Pro, Sky High, Alpha Damp, thats just a few...


Sorry guess I should have been more specific. Dynamat was not recommended as a brand name but to remind people to use some kind of deadener. Only used the dynamat name because people know what it is right away.

 

[Jcordo93]

(

Please for the love of god do not purchase dynamat, Much better deadener can be purchased at a much better value... The only reason Dynamat is so widely used is because it was the first main stream deadener (that made it big)



Second Skin Damplifier Pro, Sky High, Alpha Damp, thats just a few...)

Sorry guess I should have been more specific. Dynamat was not recommended as a brand name but to remind people to use some kind of deadener. Only used the dynamat name because people know what it is right away.

 

[SPLLTZ]

Just as an FYI you can not get a 380A alt for the 1.4T lol... I work for a mechman dealer and that is a no go... 2 D3100's and 1 alt isnt going to cover 2 BC5500's or even 1 CT 7k, i wouldnt buy the CT either, they are garbage, owners a pill head, scams... just none the less

Mechman and Singer make each a 210 for the Sonic, Singer is around 450 Shipped, His will also include a single wire regulator so you can bypass the stupid computer so you can actually charge at 14.6-8 like your batteries will want

The XP3000's are XS powers supplemental batteries, the Dseries are better for starting/burps

XP's are meant for music,

In my walled car... Singer 210A alt, 4 Runs of 1/0, 2 XP3000's, a D4700, and a NSB100FT, (so about 400 AH in batteries give or take), on my 2 3ks running @ 1 ohm, it would still drag me into the high 12's, and i had only 4k clamped... and i needed way more bank to be safe...

 

[SonicSteve]

Im not using the stock mount.. it will be a custom mount that i will machine to hold a gm large case alt. D series is what im after.. burp score just daily music. I know all about ct sounds but its hit and miss. Some gear is wonderful other gear is junk.

 

[SonicSteve]

The bank will get larger if need be but 2 is the start and consider 600 ah of bank for the 8k range will burp just fine. Demo will have to be careful until more batts are added. I can always do an underhood batt as well. And if i rip that stupid spare mount out of the well then 3 can fit there. So at that wed be up to 820ah . That will most likely be the end result. Also pdsp has 2 modes of control. 1 side will be burp set. And 1 will be demo. I dont plan on frying anything and i dont really care if people dont get a full tilt demo. I almost get bailouts off this 12... which is horribly funny at that

 

[SPLLTZ]

A D3100 is only a 110 AH battery right? so 3 of them would only be 330AH total... so for 800AH youd need 7-8... Amps from your alternator are not considered AH, Once you use 380 Amps of current, your alternator is no longer part of the equation, bailouts on a 43.7 man who are you demoing for lol!

 

[SPLLTZ]

Also i have test fitted 4 XP3000's in the tirewell, which are also group 31's (size of a D3100) and that means 4 will fit in the spare well like mine does