Used 1.4T vs 1.8

[Rockcrusher]

As I'm searching for a new Sonic, two used vehicles keep coming up in my searches. One is a 2012 1.4T and the other a 2014 1.8. Both are stick and both are $7500. The 1.4 has 45000 on the clock and the 1.8 has 59000. The 1.4 is a used car lot (which could mean its an auction car) the 1.8 is at a Chevy dealer and was a trade-in.

Which is the safer bet reliability-wise? I really want a 1.4 but without knowing the cars treatment for those 45000 miles, plus not being through a GM dealer worries me. Is the 1.8 a huge step down in performance (I owned a 2012 1.4 at one point)? I would guess the 1.8 model has been gone over by the dealer and has less (fewer parts, so to speak) to go wrong with it. Any thoughts appreciated.

 

[92dakota]

both have known issues. cant speak much for the 1.8 as parents 1.8 only has 27000KM on it.. so no miles yet LOL only issues they have is electrical gremlins that dealer is aware but cant pinpoint.. that said otherwise solid.. but remember timing belt replacement soon ..

my 2012 1.4T LTZ HB Awsome car but i had an offer i couldnt refuse.. .. 90000 km's , transmission failed (known issues) , intake PCV failed and being part of intake sucks not servicable(known issue) (replace with a kit from cruze forums to make it external) and list goes on mostly minor things.. and new owner had turbo go out couple weeks ago(warranty) unfortunately she wasnt to happy till found out it was covered haha
most issues stem from the auto's with trannies so you no issue there in what your looking at..

gm dealer check? what makes it better then a secondary company? what makes a trade in better then from an auction? i had better dealing with auction vehicles then i had dealers.. so each to their own :O company is in to make money, and replace with cheapest parts available.. most of time if it isnt under warranty and you aren't paying dealers use cheap parts.. even when warranty sometimes use cheap parts if parts aren't readily available, see it alot around here... if in doubt, test drive go to your own mechanic...

 

[Rockcrusher]

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, your right, I did have a timing belt replacement in mind when looking at the 1.8. Actually, I am a mechanic, but I work on antique cars. I have a few friends who were dealer mechanics. Dealers generally run through a standardized checklist before they put a trade-in on the lot (if the trade doesn't go straight to auction, for various reasons). A small used car lot that got a car from auction might do the same or they might just clean it up and put it on the lot. In some cases, I've witnessed used car dealer do unscrupulous things to "cover up" issues. This certainly isn't reflective of all used car dealers however.

 

[perrymk]

Timing belt is the first thing that sprung to my mind. Another is tires. I look for less expensive to replace tires. The 1.4 should get slightly better gas mileage but I believe both do well.

Another thing to consider is what you said, what you really want. There's something to be said for getting what you like for no other reason other than it makes you happy. If that means fancy wheels, color choice, turbo, whatever.

 

[ScarabEpic22]

If you're concerned about power/performance at all, the 1.4T is the way to go. My neighbor has a 1.8, it's lethargic at best. In stock form, the 1.4 isn't much better BUT I'd suggest driving it for a few months and make sure it's mechanically sound, then throwing a tune at it. Really wakes it up.

 

[Rockcrusher]

I'm concerned about adequate performance. I considered a new Spark, but they are just way too slow. I'm very familiar with the feel of an untuned 1.4. If the 1.8 approaches that, then I'm ok with it. I find it fun to drive a slow car fast through the twisties. If its a total dog, then I'll move on. I'm going to give the 1.8 a test drive this weekend. Anything I should look for under the hood? From reading here, it seems like water pumps and T-stats are an issue.

 

[r4tb3lly01]

1.4 has that low end power, super noticeable. I have a 1.8 LS and my buddy’s LT performs while mine in the same position is asleep.


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[gnonne]

2014 would be my choice. I have two Sonic sedans right now, had a third hatch a while ago. One turbo and one non-turbo right now - both are silver. 2012 was the first year and may have more issues than the 2014.

 

[JTee2017]

One thing to note. . . . the 6 speed Auto Transmission (and Manual) final drive is different depending on model year, sedan or hatch, trim level and engines.
I noticed that the daughters 2014 Sonic LT hatch with the 1.8L is not quite as responsive as our 2017 with the same engine and transmission. Whether it is the miles or age i do not know.
But when comparing Sonics . . .. year, trim level and whether sedan or hatch does matter in final drive ratio and "butt dyno" feel as well as actual performance.
It's apples and oranges in some cases folks so unless a poster specifies. . well . . kinda irrelevant.

Here are some of the Final Drive Ratios for both the manual and automatic - - some are duplicated due to different model year lists.

Final drive:
4.176
3.53
3.23 (Sonic RS)
3.47
3.95
3.65

FX1 Axle, 3.94 final drive ratio
FHB Axle, 3.47 final drive ratio
FXB Axle, 3.65 final drive ratio
F82 Axle, 3.23 final drive ratio
xxx Axle 3.65 final drive ratio

https://media.gm.com/media/us/en/chevrolet/vehicles/sonic/2014.tab1.html

1.4 has that low end power, super noticeable. I have a 1.8 LS and my buddy’s LT performs while mine in the same position is asleep.

 

[ScarabEpic22]

4.18 is for manual RS 6MT, auto and manual have different ratios. I like it for creeping in 5mph traffic, hate it everywhere else as 1st gear (especially with a little extra power) is worthless and 75mph is 3k rpms.

 

[JTee2017]

I would not call a 2017+ Sonic "lethargic". Have you driven a Spark at all? Or a Toyota Yaris, Honda Fit .. . Nissan Note? Those are lethargic.
All those also have only 4 bolt "toy" wheels on them. Our Sonics are 5 bolt wheels. . . more like a compact rather than a sub compact.

 

[Rockcrusher]

I'll second that. Now that if driven my 1.8 I can note some differences between it and the 1.4. Stock for stock, I really don't notice much of a difference. Honestly, I miss the 6spd manual over the 5spd more than the actual engine. The 1.4 loafs on the highway at 2000 rpm while 1.8 runs up closer to 2600 rpm. Around town pick up is about the same. The 1.8 doesn't get that little boost (pun) down low but just pulls nice and linear. I honestly notice the turbo more in my wife's automatic more. It will start to lug as it holds a higher gear for a hill, but then I can feel the turbo subtly spool up and give some extra low end grunt. Compared to the Spark, the 1.8 Sonic is almost fast.

 

[LowGearTurbo]

Bought the 2012 1.4T Inferno Orange Sonic hatchback

On Saturday 2/9/19 I bought the 2012 1.4T Inferno Orange hatchback mentioned in Rockcrusher's opening post.
I traded in my 2003 Ford Focus ZX5 with 193000 miles on it, which averaged 40 MPG during the 10 years I had it.
The car needed a new battery, for which the dealer gave me a discount on the price, and a new tire to pass MD state inspection (even though it had recently passed PA inspection). I put on four new Yokohama Avid Ascend GT 195/65R15 tires, and hope to sell the 3 used tires that have tread.
The battery connections had a lot of corrosion.
I bled the clutch since it was starting to grab just off the floor, so now it grabs quicker further up.
The CarFax had a clean record, with 2 owners in Augusta GA.
I did not notice it, but the MD inspection noticed that the right front fender area had been repainted.
The car handles great; I like the gearing for low engine RPMs, but need to down shift more going up hills. Still wondering about the optimal way to drive the turbo, as far as shift RPM and how much throttle to give it.
I mounted my UltraGuage Classic above the instrument cluster for more engine data.

 

[Rockcrusher]

Hope you like it. I was really on the fence about which one to buy but in the end, I'm too finicky about maintenance to buy a used turbo car. It helped that the 1.8 I bought was also the exact color I was after. MD state inspection is much more stringent than PA's annual safety inspection. I've done both as an inspector in the past. I used to feel bad when people moved into MD from out of state and their cars required big $$$ to get them into the state. Alas, rules are rules though.
I do remember shifting my old '12 1.4 a bit going over hills and especially passing on the highway. 5th and 6th really don't give lots of acceleration (I almost never got into 6th unless settling down for some relaxed higher speed cruising). My current 5spd's gearing seems punchier, enough to almost cover the torque gap between the two motors around town. On the highway, over 70mph, I'm wishing for a 6th gear though (fortunately, I rarely find myself on the highway). All in all, much different from my torquey V8 days. It almost reminds me of the years I spend driving aircooled VWs. Less power, but spirited handling. Very engaging.

 

[LowGearTurbo]

I would not call a 2017+ Sonic "lethargic". Have you driven a Spark at all? Or a Toyota Yaris, Honda Fit .. . Nissan Note? Those are lethargic.
All those also have only 4 bolt "toy" wheels on them. Our Sonics are 5 bolt wheels. . . more like a compact rather than a sub compact.

What is wrong with 4 lug nuts? The Ford Focus I had was only 4. I used to have cars with only 3 log nuts - Renault LeCar. They worked just fine, although some laughed at them. http://www.sonicownersforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

 

[JTee2017]

What is wrong with 4 lug nuts? The Ford Focus I had was only 4. I used to have cars with only 3 log nuts - Renault LeCar. They worked just fine, although some laughed at them. http://www.sonicownersforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

Nothing too much "wrong" about having 4 lug nut wheels. I just mentioned it as a point that most sub compact cars have 4 lug nut wheels, whereas a compact car will usually have 5 lug nut wheels. An indication of the wheel torque and size/weight class of the vehicle. And the appearance of 5 wheel studs is more substantial than the "trailer wheel" look of only 4.

The Lug Nut Rule Explained | Richard's Ramblings