Yosemite Sam
I Hates Rabbits!
I like beer
But I am not near! :banana:
But I am not near! :banana:
Bypassing the the bypass valve solenoid.
- Thread starter MPFab
- Start date
$ub$onic
The Sticker Guy
When I had to put a oil filter adapter housing seal on my Lincoln. It was a case if beer and a box of band aids kinda job
Quinton Exler
New member
You don't need to remove that, it's just a royal pain getting the rubber cap onto the barber fitting. I am still currently in the process of buying 1/8" caps so they are tighter... and yesterday just finished my brass block off for the green line.
Stew
Sedans Rule!
All connectors under the hood have a tab you need to depress to remove them. Some are too small to get with your fingers, you'll need the help of a small screwdriver or something.
Stew
Sedans Rule!
Can you get under it enough with a small flat screwdriver just enough to get some needle nose pliers under it to pull the clip off the rest of the way? I don't remember any connector being particularly difficult when I removed the intake manifold to port it, although I haven't got under the hood yet to do this bypass mod.
Yosemite Sam
I Hates Rabbits!
After work on Friday I will be removing all the excess weight of work crap and driving to LA. Going over the mountain passes I will be utilizing this instrument to measure any increase in torque going up those inclines. On the return trip I will be driving the posted maximum velocity to measure any difference in mpg.
Made the trip and it pulled the passes a little better. I drove non-stop from the gas station near my house in Vegas and my destination in Covina, CA and this is what my car thinks I got:
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I believe I have gained more efficiency too. Minimal, but it seems to be there.
On another note, my boost needle likes to try and race itself now. Much quicker to build boost, I'll see if I can pull some logs and show the difference in the boost building.
Also, the ECU is still able to fully cut boost by closing the throttle. Power cuts from the Traction Control seems more smooth and not as immediate as before(that's what you find out when you test this mod on wet cold roads)
I took a look to remember how I removed that connector. You need to push on the top and bottom pieces on metal and the clip will release.
On a separate note, pre-mod it took my car 3237->3571 to go from 172kPa to 224kPa and a time of 655ms. Post-mod it took my car from 3489->3587 to go from 143kPa to 226kPa and a time of 639ms. In conclusion, that is an additional 29kPa over 16ms less but these two separate runs were done in different gears.
The weather was still the same as I did the first run before I went to my friends garage, and the second was on my way home after the mod. No other changes and both done after engine was warm and done on the same stretch of road and same direction of travel.
I'll try and get a decent log that should hopefully match up perfectly with a post-mod run. But that means I need the weather to swing back to cold before tomorrow morning. If not then I'll have to undo the mod and I'm not looking forward to that...
Did the mod today but won't have a chance to get out and drive it until tomorrow.
The how-to was well done and thanks to the others that have had added tips along the way.
Because I am curious, how would the ECM react should any of the modified vacuum lines come apart under boost? It would leave the line with neither boost or vacuum should that ever happen. I would assume it would throw a code and run like crap but I am not an expert in this so I thought I would ask.
Thanks in advance...
The how-to was well done and thanks to the others that have had added tips along the way.
Because I am curious, how would the ECM react should any of the modified vacuum lines come apart under boost? It would leave the line with neither boost or vacuum should that ever happen. I would assume it would throw a code and run like crap but I am not an expert in this so I thought I would ask.
Thanks in advance...
Preloader
The M32 Martyr
Letting off the throttle would almost immediately stop any more boosting. And you would likely get an overboost code CEL.
But essentially, you could safely "at ease" yourself to the shoulder to investigate, before you hurt anything.
You could keep 3' of 1/8" vacuum tube in your glovebox for just such an event.
But essentially, you could safely "at ease" yourself to the shoulder to investigate, before you hurt anything.
You could keep 3' of 1/8" vacuum tube in your glovebox for just such an event.
I would bet that there is minimal power and torque gains on a dyno run. But if you were to watch the gains of the building of power from closed throttle, you will notice that power comes in faster and smoother.
SONIC1.4
New member
Thanks for the reply!
Preloader
The M32 Martyr
I modified your statement. I hope you don't mind. But technically it should be quite visible on a dyno, when overlayed over a pre-mod dyno. The peaks may not be much higher, but the overall results should be higher across the the graph.
I don't mind at all. I'm just not going to say that my butt dyno is calibrated as much as some of yours and I'm not too sure if there is that much of a gain in power. I see that I am getting 1-2psi higher. But I can't translate that into an increase for sure.
I'm feeling the same power but a quicker and smoother transition into power when you ask the car for some more. I'm thinking more along the lines of less turbo lag type of feeling.
I'm not going to say that you're not right but that I can't be sure if that is happening. If anyone's butt dyno is calibrated, they might be able to get you a real hp increase and prove it. In fact if others feel this way, I'd say that you would be definitely correct.
But in no way do I believe this is advisable to neglect. If I heard someone contemplating about it and they were close enough to me, I would drive out and force them to do the mod! I believe that GM wanted the end consumers to get a cushy and slow power bump when they use boost. But that isn't why I want turbo... BOOST!!
Maddmatts
Member
In this situation, total boost pressure would be limited by the force of the spring holding the BPV shut. Without boost pressure assisting on the spring side, at some point the spring will be overcome and the valve will begin leaking.
At stock boost levels, the force on the compressor outlet side of the valve will reach between 25-30 pounds (15psi x approx 1.7-1.8"square). Looking at pics of the OEM BPV spring, I doubt it's that strong, so you might see a loss of boost and a noticeable amount of power with it. A CEL for an underboost code might trigger after awhile.
Also, the vacuum leak to the intake manifold might set off another code for lean condition at idle/low throttle and/or cause a high-idle speed.
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You would also leak the small amount of boost that you create. I believe that the spring is somewhere near 6psi. If someone on here is willing to disconnect the plug for the solenoid and then you would know the actual psi rating that the spring holds.