Locations to watch for rust

[$ub$onic]

Hey guys/gals.

Wanted to share the areas on my car I have found/ watch for rust. ( yes I said the R word, i live in the salt belt, this happens)

First spot i always clean out is the rear springs upper mount. It had drainage holes but stones and what not plug them and it fills up with dirt. Left unchecked this could lead to a rust point.

Next spot is the crash bummer on the front behind the grill


The seam on the inside is starting to rust.




I did not start this thread to argue weather or not a newer car should already be rusting, but to help people better protect there car.



I spray my car down with a product called "fluid film". I swear by the stuff. ( front bumper was uncoated)

 

[Natesriv]

wonder if all the steel is galvanized, but at points like that where there's a weld that protection was removed and hence rust...

Don't forget the drivers strut top...

 

[Luv2xlr8]

The front and rear crash bars are notorious to start rust in these locations. Do you have a pic of the rear upper mounts your talking about? I haven't fully lifted my car to see where your talking but when i put my winter tires on coming this Monday, i will look into this area.

 

[Sailurman]

or no rust worries if you live in Arizona....rust free belt

 

[$ub$onic]

The front and rear crash bars are notorious to start rust in these locations. Do you have a pic of the rear upper mounts your talking about? I haven't fully lifted my car to see where your talking but when i put my winter tires on coming this Monday, i will look into this area.

I'll see if I can get a pic tomorrow.

 

[Chuck Schick]

Good information to know. I am sure they are not covered in the manufacture warranty either.

I wash my 99 Astro every week in my shop bay during the winter. The underside looks great.

I plan to do the same on the Sonic.

 

[$ub$onic]

Chevy does have a rust warranty but it is not a very long one.


It does not bother my very much, it makes me keep after the car a little better

 

[Papasonic]

I spray my car down with a product called "fluid film". I swear by the stuff.

Regarding using Fluid Film; do you use the aerosol, or spray non-aerosol with an airless sprayer system? Also, would the product be effective on already rusted surfaces to prevent further degradation?

 

[Dirkdaddy]

FYI I've done some car restoration stuff and found though hours of research if you want to protect rusted areas, there is a phosphoric acid stuff you can spray on rust, it does some chemical change to the oxydized steel and actually prevents further rust in that location, makes sort of a hard coating out of the rusted surface. Then you can use a product like "Rust Bullet" or PQR15. RB is easier to apply. But its got horrendous fumes I was working in a very large 15 car buddy's car barn and it drove me out of there...but the results were like epoxy and looked great. Not sure its worth that effort on those sub-bumper parts but FYI. On many cars those are aluminum looking metal, but I guess that's cost savings there!

 

[mitdr774]

wonder if all the steel is galvanized, but at points like that where there's a weld that protection was removed and hence rust...

Don't forget the drivers strut top...

I didnt make it into the paint shop much, but if the Sonic is like the other plants I have been in, the completed chassis is cleaned and then dunked in a series of tanks that are supposed to protect the steel from corrosion. I am sure it helps, but much like galvanized steel in construction any imperfection can render it about useless over time.

 

[$ub$onic]

Regarding using Fluid Film; do you use the aerosol, or spray non-aerosol with an airless sprayer system? Also, would the product be effective on already rusted surfaces to prevent further degradation?

I buy the aerosol cans.


I have applied the product to a rusted surface and it does stop/slow down the rust

 

[ChrisJ]

I didnt make it into the paint shop much, but if the Sonic is like the other plants I have been in, the completed chassis is cleaned and then dunked in a series of tanks that are supposed to protect the steel from corrosion. I am sure it helps, but much like galvanized steel in construction any imperfection can render it about useless over time.

This is incorrect and is the entire reason for using zinc.
A galvanized coating is a sacrificial coating meaning the zinc gets attacked before the steel. The coating does not have to remain intact and can be scratched all over and still work. While an intact coating is certainly better, it's not 100% necessary.

Galvanization - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This is why the chassis and steel construction is galvanized and not simply painted which once punctured would trap water making things worse. Even falling apart the galvanized coating still works. While it may not stop the rust, it slows it down a huge amount which is it's job.

 

[ahtoxa]

Additionally, all standard sports will apply:

- leading edges of hood and fenders, where rock chips will cause paint damage, and if the chip is to the metal, rust will start to form there and will spread underneath the point.
- any area where metal body contacts the plastic, such as where the bumper covers meet the body around the fenders. Plastic shrinks with temp variations and it also vibrates slightly when the vehicle is running and driving. If the plastic is touching the metal, there will be abrasion, leading to exposed metal, where rust will start.
- on the inside of fenders. The lip can often accumulate dirt, and when dirt gets wet, it doesn't dry out fast. The dampness will cause rust over time. This is worse in climates where road salt is used. Honda and Mazda had a bad problem with this area in the past.
- shock and strut mounts are common areas as well
- radiator supports. These are often problem areas with specific vehicles, but something to watch for. Nissans were infamous for this about 10 years ago.

 

[$ub$onic]

Rangers are also know for rotted rad supports.


Basically everytime I pull a tire off I inspect everything and spray more fluid film on areas that may have worked its way off. I have had good luck with this

 

[Chuck Schick]

I snapped these wondering if the areas need special attention?

 

[$ub$onic]

Ya I use the straw and spry up in the holes

 

[Chuck Schick]

It has been a long, salty winter. So salty, that the caked filth shows on a white paint job. I have been bringing the Sonic in every couple weeks and washing the under carriage, up in the bumpers, and wiping down the jams, and trunk and hood edges, especially by the drain holes.

A heated shop with water helps.

 

[busterbrown]

I have been bringing the Sonic in every couple weeks and washing the under carriage, up in the bumpers, and wiping down the jams, and trunk and hood edges, especially by the drain holes.

I own a 06 Buick Rainier that has been driven in the rust belt for most of it's life including many transcontinental trips. The body panels absolutely have no body rust. There are a few bolt heads on the undercarriage which have some surface rust but not anything that would be concerning. The vehicle was never undercoated either. I attribute this to the frequency of undercarriage car washes I perform in the winter. This and a good coat of wax ever 2 months. Detailing jams, door trim, and under the hood is essential to prevent rust. Have done this on most cars I've own and have never had a rust problem.

Even my 98 Maxima (as stated by another member, these cars were known for radiator support cancer) had absolutely minimal rust on the underbody. This car was undercoated. No surface rust.

Again, in my eyes, it all comes down to prevention.

 

[Prospector]

I own a 06 Buick Rainier that has been driven in the rust belt for most of it's life including many transcontinental trips. The body panels absolutely have no body rust. There are a few bolt heads on the undercarriage which have some surface rust but not anything that would be concerning. The vehicle was never undercoated either. I attribute this to the frequency of undercarriage car washes I perform in the winter. This and a good coat of wax ever 2 months. Detailing jams, door trim, and under the hood is essential to prevent rust. Have done this on most cars I've own and have never had a rust problem.

Even my 98 Maxima (as stated by another member, these cars were known for radiator support cancer) had absolutely minimal rust on the underbody. This car was undercoated. No surface rust.

Again, in my eyes, it all comes down to prevention.

Our Buick Allure (150,000 kms)has seen a similar service area (Ontario rustbelt) and same results. Zero rust so far with the exception of a couple bolts just starting to go under the hood.

Now the sad part - we don't (cosmetically) maintain that car at all. Its our family abuse wagon and sees about 3 car washes a year, has never been waxed, and the interior is a science experiment of spilled sippy cups, cheerios and a variety of unknown stains. I doubt we have ever lifted the floor mats.

Every time I put up on the ramps for an oil change I expect to find some ghastly thing has happened to it, but so far, it just keeps on going.

Like most dependable vehicles, it is an absolute bore to drive.

 

[busterbrown]

Like most dependable vehicles, it is an absolute bore to drive.

Yes, but long daily interstate commutes and road trips are where these cars excel. Any mid-2000 GM full-size sedan with their 3800 series power plant is a sure bet, mechanically. Keep the rust away and these vehicles will easily reach north of a quarter million miles with just basic maintanence.