AshesToArmor
New member
De-badged it, yo.
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what did you do to your Sonic today?
- Thread starter firstorbit84
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gijoefontaine
New member
GreenGhost28
New member
The best way I know is to use a hairdryer to melt the glue while using fishing line or tooth floss behind the badge to cut through the glue and pull of the badge. I have used regular goo gone to wipe up the rest of the glue (note have only done this on older paint, I can not guarantee that your paint will not be affected)
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Yosemite Sam
I Hates Rabbits!
Drove it on the speedway!
[emoji14]
[emoji14]
AshesToArmor
New member
My buddy owns a body shop and he used a plastic scraping tool. No heat needed. Then used adhesive remover to get the gunk off. But you just as easily could heat it up and use floss or fishing line.
Natesriv
Lead Foot
Yeah, they're just double sided taped on... a hair dryer will loosen them enough. However they're plastic and unless careful they'll break (I broke my S).. but I don't plan on putting them back on so....
Then just use some goo gone to wipe any residue...boom clean!
AshesToArmor
New member
Installed LED switchback front turn signals and they are SLICK!
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GreenGhost28
New member
The switch backs work just like any other dual "filament" LED right?
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AshesToArmor
New member
There are two different sets of chips on the bulb: amber and white. I suppose you could call that a "dual filament" LED. The white chips are illuminated whenever the DRLs are on. The ambers switch on for directionals and flashers, obviously. The white chips will switch back on after about a half second once the directional is switched off.
GreenGhost28
New member
Ok, I bought a set of Amber LED projectors. I figured they worked the same
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Swordsmith
242hp/252 ft-lbs BNR EFI
Installed updated version of BNR tune to test, did a data log with some hard pulls. This one gets choppy up above 6K rpm, at least on mere 93 octane. Jerry warned me it might be iffy, and suggested I rename the current tune before adding this one. Sure enough I reverted to the previous tune and sent the log in. The current tune is really nice (I couldn't resist doing another hard pull, and nope, it's smooth as butter all the way up to the shutoff at around 6500.
I really wish I knew how to read the logs myself, so I could get you some numbers.
I really wish I knew how to read the logs myself, so I could get you some numbers.
AshesToArmor
New member
Plasti-dipped the rear chrome rings last night. Not completely sold on the results since one of them is already somehow scuffed... I might try something a little more permanent, just not sure what.
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Yosemite Sam
I Hates Rabbits!
I used caliper paint on mine. Photo is a little fuzzy.
AshesToArmor
New member
I used caliper paint on mine. Photo is a little fuzzy.
How has it held up? And how'd you tackle the trim piece on the hatch?
gijoefontaine
New member
I am also hoping someone can answer that. I've heard people take it off.. I've seen the screws for it just haven't tried. That or just plastidip
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Yosemite Sam
I Hates Rabbits!
I painted the rings last summer and they're holding up great. To paint the rings and center piece I removed them. The tail light assemblies come off easily and then there are a few screws to separate the assemblies to get to the rings. The panel on the hatch needs to be removed to get the center piece off.
AshesToArmor
New member
The rings were super easy to get off. It's a bummer that the center piece is a bit more work, but it may be worth it. I'm going to see how long the PD holds up and make a decision on what I'll do for the rest of the trim once I see some results, good or bad.
