Cylinder misfire and system running lean after oil change?

[Earthworm]

Hey guys. So I went and got my oil changed at a place about a week ago. Day before yesterday was the first day I drove it since then, and the engine light came on. I pulled the code and it came up "System too lean". Yesterday it started sputtering on me and died at a light, so I headed back home to check it out.

As I was sitting in my driveway watching the diagnostics on my OBD reader, it was telling me that it was detecting multiple cylinder misfires, running too lean, O2 sensor malfunction, and about 4 other codes. My coolant temp starting climbing up over 210F and spitting white smoke out of the exhaust, so I shut it down.

There are no mechanics near me that are open today or tomorrow, so I just want to see if anyone here has any ideas.

I have a 1.4L Turbo.

 

[Stew]

Is the coolant level down, as if it's consuming coolant? Is the oil filler cap on correctly? What about the PCV diaphragm port under the plastic engine cover, any blowby coming out of that? Oil level?

If fluids and those other items look fine then it will take more digging, any unusual sounds under the hood, like any kind of vacuum leak? Maybe a vacuum line has popped off, have you done the bypass mod? I've had to stick a vacuum line back on a couple times where I re-routed for the bypass mod, finally put a zip-tie on it.

 

[Earthworm]

PCV diaphragm is sucking air in like crazy. Oil level is right on the full line. Coolant is a tad low.

I have not done the bypass mod.

 

[Earthworm]

All codes pulled from an OBDII reader:

P015b - O2 Sensor Delayed Response - Lean to Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0171 - System too lean, bank 1
P0300 - Random/multiple cylinder(s) – misfire detected
P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P1101 - Actual measured airflow from MAF, MAP, EGR, and TP is not within range of the calculated airflow

Vehicle is right at around 48k miles. A bunch of other threads are indicating that it is the PCV valve and that they tend to go bad around 47-50k miles, so I'm thinking that this is probably the issue. This should still be covered under warranty. Hopefully.

 

[Stew]

That sounds like it, there should not be anything sucking in or blowing out of that port. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[tk6214]

Any update on this? my car is doing the exact same thing.

 

[Italianjoe1]

It's usually the diaphragm in the valve cover, they blow out. Block it off and see if idle improves. Also, pull the line going to the intake manifold and make sure the orange silicone valve piece is still visible. If not you need an intake manifold as well as a valve cover.

 

[Flyer]

The oil cap being loose will cause the second thing just fyi. If it's the PCV though, it needs a new cover.

 

[Llia]

It's usually the diaphragm in the valve cover, they blow out. Block it off and see if idle improves. Also, pull the line going to the intake manifold and make sure the orange silicone valve piece is still visible. If not you need an intake manifold as well as a valve cover.

Do you have a pic of what it should look like?

 

[Flyer]

Pull the 'Ecotec' plastic piece off and look on the driver's side of the cover. There's a small raised up spot looking at you. That's where it would be sucking air.

There's some rubber stuff on the inside, but you can't see the difference of it being good or not.

I just re-read the whole thread BTW. I was thinking .. oh this is new. :/

 

[mja]

Guys once that PCV diaphragm blows, u gota clean out the oil from the coil pack springs and coil pack area or it'll misfire after some time. It's a bad design, frustrating.

 

[mja]

All codes pulled from an OBDII reader:

P015b - O2 Sensor Delayed Response - Lean to Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0171 - System too lean, bank 1
P0300 - Random/multiple cylinder(s) – misfire detected
P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P1101 - Actual measured airflow from MAF, MAP, EGR, and TP is not within range of the calculated airflow

Vehicle is right at around 48k miles. A bunch of other threads are indicating that it is the PCV valve and that they tend to go bad around 47-50k miles, so I'm thinking that this is probably the issue. This should still be covered under warranty. Hopefully.

This is nearly the exact mileage mine went to crap. Intake mani, cam cover, turbo, and I believe there was a front end gasket that went too. Like a timing chain cover gasket or something odd.

Another turbo, cam cover, and coil pack later the car has run like a million bucks.

 

[Llia]

Another turbo, cam cover, and coil pack later the car has run like a million bucks.

That was all under warranty? Or did you have to pay?

 

[mja]

That was all under warranty? Or did you have to pay?

It was all covered under warranty. The 1st turbo was on its way out when I got in a fender bender, so a shop replaced. Somehow they 'installed incorrectly', which is what the dealer said. I didn't pursue this to find out exactly what they meant. But ya, it was a headache for 3-4 months.

 

[Llia]

Cleaned my coil boots with soap and water then let dry. They were real easy to slip off. Had lots of dust inside and out. Also noticed a hole on the coil pack casing. Looked almost melted.

 

[mja]

As in the coil pack is melted somewhere, can you post a pic?

 

[JesusTheAgnostic]

Wait, so I was supposed to clean the coils? When mine went I just took it to the dealer.

 

[mja]

Wait, so I was supposed to clean the coils? When mine went I just took it to the dealer.

It's a precautionary thing. Not everyone's coil pack is going to go when the rupture disk blows. But when the disk blows, it spews oil onto the coil pack and can trap dirt and condense water in the springs (from hot oil) once the motor is on. I replaced my coil after the rupture disk blew because I was astounded by how much dirt/oil/corrosion were on the springs.

 

[JesusTheAgnostic]

How would I clean them?

 

[mja]

Clean the boots the same as youd clean any rubber part that has an electrical connector. Maybe paper towel and some kinda alcohol.

The springs are metal, so take em out and spray em down with MAF cleaner or engine degreaser/armor all. Wipe down well with some type of alcohol. If those springs are really corroded, may be coil pack time