Intake Manifold Removal (1.8L engine)

[Elias]

Hey everyone,

i have a 2013 sonic 1.8 l engine. I have to replace my Intake manifold. I have some instructions but my question is what parts have to be removed to be able to extract the intake manifold?

the instructions i have call for among other things, the removal of the "Front wheel drive shaft". is this accurate?

any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

-Elias

 

[Mike DZ]

Hmm - look at this - Chevrolet Sonic Repair Manual: Intake Manifold Replacement - Intake Manifold - Intake and Forced Induction - Engine - Powertrain

 

[Elias]

Thanks for the reply!
That is the same website i used to get my instructions. but The different instructions seem to have differences. the ones that should apply to me are the ones for the (LUW) Engine.
Chevrolet Sonic Repair Manual: Intake Manifold Replacement (LUW) - Intake Manifold - Intake and Forced Induction - Engine - Powertrain

they state to remove the "front wheel drive shaft". which seems unrelated to me... but i could be wrong since there is little space to extract the intake manifold.
i can't seem to find a single account of another person removing the intake manifold on a 1.8l engine to verify how it was done.

 

[sanics]

I checked alldata and compared the intake manifold replacement for the 1.4 and the 1.8. Only the 1.8 calls out the front wheel drive shaft, so it's definitely for your application.

 

[Elias]

I checked alldata and compared the intake manifold replacement for the 1.4 and the 1.8. Only the 1.8 calls out the front wheel drive shaft, so it's definitely for your application.

I think you are right. I was hoping I would not have to deal with the front wheel drive shaft since it appears (to my untrained eyes) to be no where near the intake manifold, but i am inexperienced and they must be included in those instructions for a good reason.


Thanks for the reply!

 

[gnonne]

There must be some bolts you need to get from the bottom, so you need to remove quite a bit from underneath to get to them...

Why do you need to remove the intake on a 1.8L? this isn't a common repair, as far as I know.

 

[Elias]

There must be some bolts you need to get from the bottom, so you need to remove quite a bit from underneath to get to them...

Why do you need to remove the intake on a 1.8L? this isn't a common repair, as far as I know.

I got a check engine light with code P2076 and upon further inspection i found an arm had become detatched
On the intake manifold. The part is not sold seperately. I have to choose between buying a used arm on ebay and finding a way to attach it myself or swap out the whole intake manifold.

 

[KayTrex95]

i’m having the same issue with my 2012 sonic 1.8L. i’m getting the code p2076 plus p0101. so far i’ve inspected all hoses found no cracks or breaks and replaced the throttle body (including a throttle body position sensor), got the same codes. now i’ve replaced the MAF sensor (right on top of the air box), haven’t checked the codes but the check engine light’s still there. i reached in from the top of the car and found the linkage arm dangling so i know for sure i’ve found the issue! now having to remove it is becoming a headache. i found a few vids on youtube but only one or two of them actually show you how to get the manifold out. i’ll send over links if it’s helpful for you!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Elias]

Hey thanks, KayTrex 95.
I ended up using a right angle screw driver (and some extensions) to remove the linkage arm. Then drilling a hole where the linkage arm got disconnected. I inserted a clevis pin to the hole then a cotter pin to hold the clevis pin in. This ended up more secure than the original plastic that held it together, and my code p2076 went away. This was around september 2019. Its still holding well and the code has not returned. I hope this helps. As the screwdriver, clevis pins, and cotter pins, cost much less than the $300 the intake was going to cost. I was able to do it in a few hours. I still plan on changing my intake manifold out eventually.

 

[KayTrex95]

Hey thanks, KayTrex 95.
I ended up using a right angle screw driver (and some extensions) to remove the linkage arm. Then drilling a hole where the linkage arm got disconnected. I inserted a clevis pin to the hole then a cotter pin to hold the clevis pin in. This ended up more secure than the original plastic that held it together, and my code p2076 went away. This was around september 2019. Its still holding well and the code has not returned. I hope this helps. As the screwdriver, clevis pins, and cotter pins, cost much less than the $300 the intake was going to cost. I was able to do it in a few hours. I still plan on changing my intake manifold out eventually.

thank you! i’m working on doing that now. were you able to take off the piece that the linkage arm connects to without taking the whole manifold out of the car?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Elias]

Yes with this right angle screwdriver and the extensions
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=right angle screwdriver
I did this all without removing the intake manifold. I only disconnected the battery and the electrical wires that are somewhat in the way of the linkage arm.

I forgot to add torx bits will be needed. It is hard to see and there is little working room but it can be done with patience.

 

[KayTrex95]

Yes with this right angle screwdriver and the extensions

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=right angle screwdriver

I did this all without removing the intake manifold. I only disconnected the battery and the electrical wires that are somewhat in the way of the linkage arm.



I forgot to add torx bits will be needed. It is hard to see and there is little working room but it can be done with patience.

oh awesome i have that exact screwdriver! i’ll try with the extensions and see if i can get it. thanks again!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JTee2017]

Hey thanks, KayTrex 95.
I ended up using a right angle screw driver (and some extensions) to remove the linkage arm. Then drilling a hole where the linkage arm got disconnected. I inserted a clevis pin to the hole then a cotter pin to hold the clevis pin in. This ended up more secure than the original plastic that held it together, and my code p2076 went away. This was around september 2019. Its still holding well and the code has not returned. I hope this helps. As the screwdriver, clevis pins, and cotter pins, cost much less than the $300 the intake was going to cost. I was able to do it in a few hours. I still plan on changing my intake manifold out eventually.

Could you post some pictures of where you drilled and installed the clevis and cotter pins?

Both a general location of where to access these spots and then a close up of where you did this clever and much appreciated modification.

Thank you for detailing your creative venture into this repair!

 

[KayTrex95]

Could you post some pictures of where you drilled and installed the clevis and cotter pins?



Both a general location of where to access these spots and then a close up of where you did this clever and much appreciated modification.



Thank you for detailing your creative venture into this repair!

if he isn’t able to since he’s already finished his repair a lil while back, i’ll post pictures of mine when i’m able to complete it. i have to order some pins and work on the car again another weekend so when i’m able to i’ll post pictures!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JTee2017]

if he isn’t able to since he’s already finished his repair a lil while back, i’ll post pictures of mine when i’m able to complete it. i have to order some pins and work on the car again another weekend so when i’m able to i’ll post pictures!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! That would be great !

 

[KayTrex95]

Yes with this right angle screwdriver and the extensions

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=right angle screwdriver

I did this all without removing the intake manifold. I only disconnected the battery and the electrical wires that are somewhat in the way of the linkage arm.



I forgot to add torx bits will be needed. It is hard to see and there is little working room but it can be done with patience.

Did you just drill a hole into the linkage arm or did you drill a hole in the part the linkage arm attaches to too? I can’t seem to get my right angle screwdriver to fit in the bottom front screw of the part to get that part out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TitanBlue]

It boggles my mind that such a situation exist! A loose part requiring an IM Replacement, and the Front Axle Removal to do so. Hopefully, this thread gets updated with pics or video.

I shouldn't have complained of doing the IM on my Nissan Titan V-8. Just screws, and hoses. Needed to remove because the Starter is located inside the engine cavity underneath the IM, at the rear of the engine. Starter was a real pain to unbolt, but the IM was easy.

 

[JTee2017]

It boggles my mind that such a situation exist! A loose part requiring an IM Replacement, and the Front Axle Removal to do so. Hopefully, this thread gets updated with pics or video.

I shouldn't have complained of doing the IM on my Nissan Titan V-8. Just screws, and hoses. Needed to remove because the Starter is located inside the engine cavity underneath the IM, at the rear of the engine. Starter was a real pain to unbolt, but the IM was easy.

Many do not need to replace the Intake Manifold just because the plastic link arm is worn and became disconnected on one end.

But a new one, pop it on. . .. less than $12.
I have two for spares. One for each Sonic in the family.

You're welcome. . ..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649