zomby woof
Member
Did you block off the port in the head that runs from the lifter valley to the intake?
Take a picture of your installation.
Take a picture of your installation.
1.4T PCV repair - an alternative
- Thread starter zomby woof
- Start date
zomby woof
Member
There's only three ways pressure can get inside the valve cover. Either the PCV check valve on the intake side is not closing, the one on the vent side is not opening, or the port in the head is still allowing boost pressure past, though if the vent side is opening it shouldn't allow pressure to build.
Go through the installation again and double check the PCV valve operation. Also, the valve cover gasket should be replaced if you've had it off. These motors run hot so the rubber hardens and doesn't seal well after the cover's been been off.
Keep us posted.
Go through the installation again and double check the PCV valve operation. Also, the valve cover gasket should be replaced if you've had it off. These motors run hot so the rubber hardens and doesn't seal well after the cover's been been off.
Keep us posted.
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zomby woof
Member
1 1/2 years with this mod and no issues.
Still working perfectly
Still working perfectly
zomby woof
Member
His kits are well put together, though expensive for what you get, but his ideas are pure hack.
I came up with an idea to block off the port for the head. On the last one I put a steel plug in the port and filled over with epoxy. I think if I do another I'll machine a plug that looks like an inverted top hat that fits in the hole on the valve cover gasket surface, put a little epoxy just to seal, then bolt the valve cover back on top. The part that sits on the gasket surface, the 'brim' of the inverted hat, only needs to be about 1 mm thick. The gasket can easily absorb that and it will be a neat and tidy arrangement.
Somebody else plugged the valve cover side and that's also a good idea
I came up with an idea to block off the port for the head. On the last one I put a steel plug in the port and filled over with epoxy. I think if I do another I'll machine a plug that looks like an inverted top hat that fits in the hole on the valve cover gasket surface, put a little epoxy just to seal, then bolt the valve cover back on top. The part that sits on the gasket surface, the 'brim' of the inverted hat, only needs to be about 1 mm thick. The gasket can easily absorb that and it will be a neat and tidy arrangement.
Somebody else plugged the valve cover side and that's also a good idea
Wish I would have seen this thread a week ago. Just competed a v2 kit install. Wasn't the worst but definitely difficult to get the screw in the manifold without making a mess. I think a slower set epoxy would be better. . Also a real pain to remove the manifold and not break anything. To my amazement, the manifold diaphragm was still intact, although obviously not functioning after 106k miles. Replaced valve cover too.
A year on mine and 30,000 miles ( long commute!), trouble free.
mightysonic
Member
I'm looking at doing this fix was hoping someone could post some quality, well-lit, high-res pictures of their install. I'm having trouble seeing and understanding the whole setup. I want to be completely sure I know what I'm doing before I start drilling into my valve cover.
shorebreeze
Member
The key thing here is properly documenting the modification and installation involving the valve cover, including of course the whole that gets drilled in it and the fitting that gets put there.
mightysonic
Member
So I have been doing a lot of research into this solution and I think I have worked out how it's done. I've compared Zomby and Hightop's solutions and it seems Hightop's solution looks a bit less intimidating for an intermediate DIY'er.
My understanding is that he has re-routed the plastic corrugated hose coming from the turbo to the Valve cover where that hose has an external PCV valve, then the brass T-fitting connects it to the newly drilled hole in the valve cover. Next is the 2nd external PCV valve which then connects to the stock intake manifold PCV port.
This is where I'm a bit unclear - do you still block-off the original intake PCV port?
I hope this helps some people with similar DIY skills like myself...I've attached my stock PCV setup and added a 2nd pic of what will hopefully be my modified PCV setup.
Attachments
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Drill-InkedIMG_20201010_173119_LI.jpg -
InkedIMG_20201010_173119_LI.jpg
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zomby woof
Member
The only difference between his method and mine was that he plugged the port on the valve cover side. I plugged it in the cylinder head. The rest is essentially the same.
I know this is an old thread but hoping someone has done this and had issues and found a solution.
Did this mod and am having the same issue that Ffor was having. I noticed they never posted their solution, so thought I'd see if anyone else had. Used the two PCV valves mentioned (PCV266 from Oriellys). Blocked the port in the head with thin aluminum sheet metal and jb weld. Brand new valve cover with brand new seal. Took on test drive after completion and came back with back of engine soaked in oil. Appears to be pushing out between valve cover and head.
Did this mod and am having the same issue that Ffor was having. I noticed they never posted their solution, so thought I'd see if anyone else had. Used the two PCV valves mentioned (PCV266 from Oriellys). Blocked the port in the head with thin aluminum sheet metal and jb weld. Brand new valve cover with brand new seal. Took on test drive after completion and came back with back of engine soaked in oil. Appears to be pushing out between valve cover and head.
Well it appears I've solved it. After verifying that both PCV valves worked, I narrowed it down to My attempt to cover the hole in the head. Even though it couldn't have been more than half a mill thick. Even with a little RTV, I had oil coming out between the cover and head. Ended up doing what Hightop did and plugged the hole in the valve cover. Also changed the vacuum source from the brake booster junction to the corrugated hose junction. Will report back if anything changes.
zomby woof
Member
Still going strong two years later!
I've since added a cheap ebay check valve. Just as a matter of maintenence, I bought two new PCV valves (2016 Kia 1.6T) off rock auto to replace the old junkyard ones I initially used and both leaked - and I even paid for the better ones, so I put the junkyard valves back in and added the check valve for safety.
I also made up a little kit for a friend who wanted to do the mod to his Cruze. I'll post a pic if I can find it.
So just a warning, if you're going to do this mod, check the PCV valves and make sure they don't leak or you'll be chasing your tail!
I've since added a cheap ebay check valve. Just as a matter of maintenence, I bought two new PCV valves (2016 Kia 1.6T) off rock auto to replace the old junkyard ones I initially used and both leaked - and I even paid for the better ones, so I put the junkyard valves back in and added the check valve for safety.
I also made up a little kit for a friend who wanted to do the mod to his Cruze. I'll post a pic if I can find it.
So just a warning, if you're going to do this mod, check the PCV valves and make sure they don't leak or you'll be chasing your tail!
efaily
Member
Has anyone actually used the Dorman manifold & valve cover to fix this issue? The Dorman valve cover appears to make the PCV diaphragm serviceable, unlike the stock valve cover. The Dorman intake looks like it may not include the flaps to restrict airflow, but I'm not sure based on the pictures I've seen. I'm wondering if anyone knows for certain?
Thrasher2019RS
Member
The ZZP kit looks amazing but way to pricey for me as I'm looking to get rid of this car this year.
I get it, cnc machined aluminum and hoses, but $300?, yeesh.
Let us know how your install goes
Thrasher2019RS
Member
I'll do a WIP thread for it. This car is staying so I'm doing a lot.
Need to update my sig but I forget how... I've done a lot since then!
Thanks, T
Need to update my sig but I forget how... I've done a lot since then!
Thanks, T
zomby woof
Member
Wow, I thought that Cruze idiot's kits were unnecessarily complicated and expensive.
At least the ZZP kit looks professional.
That little aluminum check valve is the same one I'm using right now, it's a few bucks on ebay. If you get that kit I would get a spare check. The internal rubber will fail.
3 years now on this mod
At least the ZZP kit looks professional.
That little aluminum check valve is the same one I'm using right now, it's a few bucks on ebay. If you get that kit I would get a spare check. The internal rubber will fail.
3 years now on this mod
