zomby woof
Member
Looks good. How did you plug the pcv port in the head?
1.4T PCV repair - an alternative
- Thread starter zomby woof
- Start date
I ran a 12mm by 1.25 tap into the semi rectangular hole in the valve cover, which put threads on the sides but not the corners of the opening, cut off about 1/2" of a bolt and hacksaw a slot for a screwdriver on the cut end, put epoxy on the threads and screwed it in tight to a level just below the flange of the valve cover, then epoxyed over it flush.
Passed a boost leak test, previously I couldn't get it to hold pressure for even a few seconds, and drove it to work this morning, running fine again.
Thanks again for brainstorming this fix out, and sharing it.
Pirate Luke
Member
I like this solution. While some fine tuning will be necessary, it’s safer than epoxying a screw into the manifold. Thank you for sharing.
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zomby woof
Member
Thanks, I saw the thread.
I kind of expected something but not that LOL. Be aware that most of what he said in attacking this method is incorrect.
Also know that I passed the idea by other licensed mechanics for their opinions and input, then tested a bunch of parts before I settled on the ones I used, then tested it for 6 months on my wife's car before I posted anything about it.
I'm a licensed mechanic, racer, and engine builder with 40 years experience. I'm no hack and this is no hack repair. It's not like I'm epoxying screws inside an intake...
AS an FYI, in the second iteration, the brake booster hose is left untouched (I jumped the gun a bit on that one), and as previously mentioned, the vac elbow can be relocated to the vac port where the 14mm coupler/plug is installed, I have also since plugged the port in a similar way to Hightop on the last one I did. Good idea, thanks!
It remains a work in progress, but a better solution, nonetheless, than what's already out there.
Feel free to use it as I want nothing, only to supply information that will help. Also feel free not to use it. It's your choice, and if you come up with a better solution, please post that too.
Edited to say: (I didn't notice this at first)
I have no issues with him. I have no idea who he is, know anything about him, nor do I care. I've only ever been on that forum a few times and I'm pretty sure they were to look up that PCV mod because a coworker with a Cruze asked me about it and said - and I quote "there's gotta be a simpler way than that". At the time I didn't have a Sonic and didn't think much about it until we started having problems with ours.
I kind of expected something but not that LOL. Be aware that most of what he said in attacking this method is incorrect.
Also know that I passed the idea by other licensed mechanics for their opinions and input, then tested a bunch of parts before I settled on the ones I used, then tested it for 6 months on my wife's car before I posted anything about it.
I'm a licensed mechanic, racer, and engine builder with 40 years experience. I'm no hack and this is no hack repair. It's not like I'm epoxying screws inside an intake...
AS an FYI, in the second iteration, the brake booster hose is left untouched (I jumped the gun a bit on that one), and as previously mentioned, the vac elbow can be relocated to the vac port where the 14mm coupler/plug is installed, I have also since plugged the port in a similar way to Hightop on the last one I did. Good idea, thanks!
It remains a work in progress, but a better solution, nonetheless, than what's already out there.
Feel free to use it as I want nothing, only to supply information that will help. Also feel free not to use it. It's your choice, and if you come up with a better solution, please post that too.
Edited to say: (I didn't notice this at first)
I have no issues with him. I have no idea who he is, know anything about him, nor do I care. I've only ever been on that forum a few times and I'm pretty sure they were to look up that PCV mod because a coworker with a Cruze asked me about it and said - and I quote "there's gotta be a simpler way than that". At the time I didn't have a Sonic and didn't think much about it until we started having problems with ours.
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All you need for materials are a female T, a female coupler with 14 MM outside diameter(maybe most are this diameter, I just ordered one from Summit with everything else, not knowing if it was 14MM or not, and it was), a street elbow, a short pipe nipple, a 5/16" hose barb (all 1/8" NPT, the 2 PCV valves Zombie Woof linked in the first post (2000 Hyundai Accent I believe) 2 small hose clamps, and around 2' of 5/16" hose.
You will also need some method to block the passage in the valve cover under the area you're installing the nipple in, I tapped mine and epoxyed it in, Zombie Woof installed shim stock between the head and the valve cover.
I considered doing it this way, but because my main leak source after the intake check valve on boost leak test was this area at the valve cover gasket I hesitated, possibly it would have been fine.
For tools, you would need the normal tools to remove the valve cover, a 21/64" drill bit, a 1/8" pipe tap, drill and tap driver. If you want to block the cover the way I did, you'll need a 12MM by 1.25 pitch tap, a bolt that thread, a hacksaw and some epoxy.
As far as driving experience after the repair, I just did it a few days ago and have only put around 250 miles on it. As far as general experience, I'm an ASE master tech with advance level certification, but anyone who's moderately handy should be able to do this job, the hard part was for Zombie Woof to think out of the box and come up with it, IMO.
That being said, if a customers car came in with a bad intake check valve, I'd just replace the intake, not to pad a bill or because I don't think this method is sound, but because it's not good business practice to use new, unorthodox methods to repair customers cars, unless they came in specifically requesting it, with no input from me, others may feel differently.
Hope this has been of help to someone.
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zomby woof
Member
Thanks for the description.
Also thanks to PCV kit guy for pointing out that I didn't spec a valve from a turbo application
So here's a link to a PCV valve from a Mitsubishi turbo application
Note that in the interchange that the same valve is used in both turbo and non turbo applications. My assumption is that they are more displacement specific, hence why I used a valve from a 1.6
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...v+(positive+crankcase+ventilation)+valve,5052
Also note that no specific flow is required to evacuate the the PCV gasses, it serves ONLY as a pressure relief in the event (boost) that it cannot be recycled through the intake. Nonetheless, this valve can be eliminated if the check on your turbo is working, but it's also a benefit to this system that the 'kit' does not offer such that if the turbo check fails (and they do), the installed check will take over.
The less PCV gasses you can keep out of the turbo the better. You don't want that oily, watery mist on the turbo inlet if you can avoid it.
Two more reasons why this is a superior setup
Also thanks to PCV kit guy for pointing out that I didn't spec a valve from a turbo application
So here's a link to a PCV valve from a Mitsubishi turbo application
Note that in the interchange that the same valve is used in both turbo and non turbo applications. My assumption is that they are more displacement specific, hence why I used a valve from a 1.6
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...v+(positive+crankcase+ventilation)+valve,5052
Also note that no specific flow is required to evacuate the the PCV gasses, it serves ONLY as a pressure relief in the event (boost) that it cannot be recycled through the intake. Nonetheless, this valve can be eliminated if the check on your turbo is working, but it's also a benefit to this system that the 'kit' does not offer such that if the turbo check fails (and they do), the installed check will take over.
The less PCV gasses you can keep out of the turbo the better. You don't want that oily, watery mist on the turbo inlet if you can avoid it.
Two more reasons why this is a superior setup
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GreenMachineButler
New member
Do you have pictures of the port you’re supposed to block from the cylinder head? And also is the flow going outwards from the tap in the valve cover? I was going to use the fix kit, is this more durable than the fix kit? If this is more durable then I might do this instead, I just want reliability, I was going to replace the hose going to the turbo also, I got a new valve cover because the stock one is shot so I need to figure out what is better before I go throwing some stuff on there
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GreenMachineButler
New member
I think I get it now, you’re rerouting the gases through the valve cover instead of through the intake manifold, but does the hose going to the turbo stay connected to the turbo? So I plug the corrugated hose into one pcv valve and then run another hose from the other one coming off the tee and into where the corrugated hose used to be in the intake manifold?
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Hmmmm..... a version 3 is now being sold that does not require intake removal.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
zomby woof
Member
Post a link to it.
Curious to see how it's done
Curious to see how it's done
great. after I just bought a V2 kit.
TurtleOverlord
Active member
I wonder why he changed the check valve
Probably found cheaper parts saving him money which in turns makes more of a profit.
The "don't have to remove the intake" part is interesting considering you have to drill/remove the old one.
zomby woof
Member
I noticed his stuff is 'patent pending'. Maybe I should go after him for copying my idea, you know, because he wasn't smart enough to come up with it on his own
I provided the idea free for the DIY community to use, perfect and/or develop as they see fit. Not really so people could make money on it.
As of the 28th of this month it will be a year and still working great
I provided the idea free for the DIY community to use, perfect and/or develop as they see fit. Not really so people could make money on it.
As of the 28th of this month it will be a year and still working great
zomby woof
Member
Please stop sending me PM's regarding this modification.
If you have any questions, or you've done this mod and you don't think it's working properly, post your questions here because if you have them, there's a pretty good chance other people do too, and they can use the info.
Also, like I said earlier, if you find a better way, or think of a better solution, post it up! My wife's car has been running perfectly with this mod for over a year now.
If you have any questions, or you've done this mod and you don't think it's working properly, post your questions here because if you have them, there's a pretty good chance other people do too, and they can use the info.
Also, like I said earlier, if you find a better way, or think of a better solution, post it up! My wife's car has been running perfectly with this mod for over a year now.
