Eric Smit
Enforcer
BEFORE YOU CONSIDER THIS INSTALL, YOU NEED A TUNE RUNNING SPEED DENSITY. IT IS MANDATORY. REQUIRED. NECESSARY. And yes, Trifecta's ECP is the same thing. Derp.
For those of you wanting an aftermarket BOV that isn't the direct fit from BNR (link in my sig), whether it's because you don't want a push design or you just don't like Forge, hopefully this thread will help.
A BOV, I picked HKS. THMotorsport.
A flange (depends on what BOV you get, but I used an HKS 29mm flange). THMotorsport
Two 2" hose clamps. O'Reilly's.
Vacuum line to fit on the BOV actuator. I used windshield washer vacuum line from O'Reilly's.
T-bar for the vacuum line. O'Reilly's.
Zip ties. O'Reilly's.
A six pack of vacuum line sized hose clamps. O'Reilly's.
A 2" OD aluminum/steel pipe. it needs to be the same material as your flange. Steel will be easier to weld the flange to. Metal Shop.
Tools required:
Flathead screwdriver.
Pliers.
Sharp knife.
Welding equipment (depends on what material you choose.)
WD-40 (optional, just makes slipping the pipe in easier)
Snap ring pliers.
A whole lot of testicular fortitude.
SO, forgive me for not having a step by step picture process, but I'll do my best. It's actually fairly straight forward.
1) Making your flange and addition pipe one.
You, or your welder, are going to cut a hole in your pipe so that flange will slide in. Then, you are going to weld the flange to your pipe. If everything went well, it will look like that. You can't see it, but I also weld a very small lip to both sides of the pipe; you'll see why that helps and is the worst thing ever later.
2) Mangling your charge pipe.
That's right guys. The first thing you're going to do to your car is cut a 2" section out of your charge pipe. You can mount it in different place than I did, but I chose directly the driver's side of the engine, which was about 7" from the intake manifold.
3) Hose clamps galore.
So, it's not actually hose clamps galore at this point, just two, but still. This is where you are going to slip your 2" hose clamps onto each of the two, now pieces, of your charge pipe.
4) Be ready for a lot of swearing (e.g. installed the flange/pipe into the charge pipe hose).
Seriously, this is by far the worst part of the install. As I like to do, in sometimes glorious fashion, I refused to use WD40 for the first side of the charge pipe. It took me 45 minutes, I was sweaty, I was angry, and I almost peed a little. TRUST ME WHEN I SAY THIS: USE WD40. IT IS OPTIONAL, BUT SO HIGHLY RECOMMENDED I MIGHT AS WELL SAY GET THE ****ING LUBE.
It is awful because of that lip you welded on, but that is the same lip that is going to keep your contraption together. A little WD40 and it slips right on.
5) Now it is time to hack up your stock BPV vacuum line.
You don't have to do it like me, but I would recommend it for ease of install. I did not install the HKS SSQV4 as a performance mod; it is strictly for noise. On that note, I opted to T the vacuum line and run a line to my stock BPV and my new BOV. That's right. I am running both. Because I can. Anyway, here is a picture of the stock BPV:
It's that little black thing with 3 bolts on it. There is a small black line that runs from it, up the engine, over the top, and then into the intake manifold. Blah blah blah, cut it, slip a small piece of the vacuum line on each end, slip the T bar in, and then run some line from the open end of the T to the vacuum port on your BOV. The T should look like this:
If you have extra clips, you didn't use enough. Also, see final pic for where to clamp vacuum line on an HKS SSQV4.
6) Drink your beverage of choice, because you're done.
Yep, that's it! If everything went well, your BOV should look like this:
Hopefully that helps anybody who wants to ask me how to do it. If you feel I wasn't clear enough, please let me know and I will try to clarify.
For those of you wanting an aftermarket BOV that isn't the direct fit from BNR (link in my sig), whether it's because you don't want a push design or you just don't like Forge, hopefully this thread will help.
A BOV, I picked HKS. THMotorsport.
A flange (depends on what BOV you get, but I used an HKS 29mm flange). THMotorsport
Two 2" hose clamps. O'Reilly's.
Vacuum line to fit on the BOV actuator. I used windshield washer vacuum line from O'Reilly's.
T-bar for the vacuum line. O'Reilly's.
Zip ties. O'Reilly's.
A six pack of vacuum line sized hose clamps. O'Reilly's.
A 2" OD aluminum/steel pipe. it needs to be the same material as your flange. Steel will be easier to weld the flange to. Metal Shop.
Tools required:
Flathead screwdriver.
Pliers.
Sharp knife.
Welding equipment (depends on what material you choose.)
WD-40 (optional, just makes slipping the pipe in easier)
Snap ring pliers.
A whole lot of testicular fortitude.
SO, forgive me for not having a step by step picture process, but I'll do my best. It's actually fairly straight forward.
1) Making your flange and addition pipe one.
You, or your welder, are going to cut a hole in your pipe so that flange will slide in. Then, you are going to weld the flange to your pipe. If everything went well, it will look like that. You can't see it, but I also weld a very small lip to both sides of the pipe; you'll see why that helps and is the worst thing ever later.
2) Mangling your charge pipe.
That's right guys. The first thing you're going to do to your car is cut a 2" section out of your charge pipe. You can mount it in different place than I did, but I chose directly the driver's side of the engine, which was about 7" from the intake manifold.
3) Hose clamps galore.
So, it's not actually hose clamps galore at this point, just two, but still. This is where you are going to slip your 2" hose clamps onto each of the two, now pieces, of your charge pipe.
4) Be ready for a lot of swearing (e.g. installed the flange/pipe into the charge pipe hose).
Seriously, this is by far the worst part of the install. As I like to do, in sometimes glorious fashion, I refused to use WD40 for the first side of the charge pipe. It took me 45 minutes, I was sweaty, I was angry, and I almost peed a little. TRUST ME WHEN I SAY THIS: USE WD40. IT IS OPTIONAL, BUT SO HIGHLY RECOMMENDED I MIGHT AS WELL SAY GET THE ****ING LUBE.
It is awful because of that lip you welded on, but that is the same lip that is going to keep your contraption together. A little WD40 and it slips right on.
5) Now it is time to hack up your stock BPV vacuum line.
You don't have to do it like me, but I would recommend it for ease of install. I did not install the HKS SSQV4 as a performance mod; it is strictly for noise. On that note, I opted to T the vacuum line and run a line to my stock BPV and my new BOV. That's right. I am running both. Because I can. Anyway, here is a picture of the stock BPV:
6) Drink your beverage of choice, because you're done.
Yep, that's it! If everything went well, your BOV should look like this:
Hopefully that helps anybody who wants to ask me how to do it. If you feel I wasn't clear enough, please let me know and I will try to clarify.
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