car suddenly wont start

[daemontrym]

I have a 2012 chevy sonic 1.4 58k on it. It is stock besides a k and n drop in filter.

I went grocery shopping today and had to get my car towed to my house. I tried to start my car and it tried to crank once then suddenly stopped. I tried to start it again and it acted like thr clutch pedal wasn't pressed down. The battery is less than a year old and tests find under the load tester. I tried unhoooking the battery for a few minutes and then nothing. Has anybody had the same problem before? I can here the relays click in the fuse box, but no power is getting to the starter. I dont know where to start

 

[kevjam79]

Check the battery output. Have it load tested. If it checks out, Pull the K&N and replace with stock filter. Clean the MAF with MAF cleaner. Check for codes. Reset the codes. Pull the battery terminal and reset ECM. Start and drive.

Also, check for fuel pressure and listen for the fuel pump.


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[Papasonic]

Start by checking all of the battery cable connections, and the other end of the cables where they attach to the engine ground, and the starter. A bad connection will cause a lot of grief. Then verify if there is current/voltage to the starter terminal when attempting to start engine, using a volt meter or test lamp.

 

[SuperFudd]

And if the voltage doesn't drop some at the battery terminals, as it normally would when "cranking", the starter is not drawing current. If the starter is getting voltage, then it is open. If not, a bad cable connection, at the battery, the starter solenoid or the starter. If the solenoid isn't closing the circuit it could be defective or it is not getting a voltage to close the contacts.
Does the starter turn the engine at all? Can you hear the solenoid click? If the solenoid doesn't click, there is a whole other basket of things to look at.

 

[daemontrym]

I checked the battery already its good and the grounds look clean. The fuel pump turns on when you turn the key, but it does not try to crank. I can hear the relays click on the D/S lower console fues box, but nothing. Its acting like I have my foot off the clutch. We tried unhooking the battery for awhile, plus we tried to jump the car and its doing the same thing. I can only think of it being a bad relay somewhere or the clutch safety switch.

 

[kevjam79]

Try the clutch safety switch. It could be gummed up. The factory will grease those with silicone or white lithium in some cars. This lube can attract dirt and grime causing the switch to stick. Can you try operating it multiple times by hand?


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[sonic2013ltz]

Intermitted no crank on my 2013 LTZ 1.8 was the start/crank relay #5 under hood fuse/relay box causing the problem... high/low ambient temps and it would act up. I guess you can add that to the 'list' of possible causes .. Duralast Part Number: 19264 (rectangular).
They list a second smaller (square) relay as 'starter' it is actually a 'start' relay.

 

[SmoothSonic]

Intermitted no crank on my 2013 LTZ 1.8 was the start/crank relay #5 under hood fuse/relay box causing the problem... high/low ambient temps and it would act up. I guess you can add that to the 'list' of possible causes .. Duralast Part Number: 19264 (rectangular).
They list a second smaller (square) relay as 'starter' it is actually a 'start' relay.

This is just what I was looking for. My 2014 LTZ 1.4L with 105,000 miles on it has now reached this problem. I searched all through the web for possible causes. I have the same intermittent no crank in the high/low ambient temps. This part number is helpful, I'll give it a try.

 

[SmoothSonic]

I had this problem and I thought the start relay was bad. I replaced it and the problem was still there. I then remembered seeing one symbol that kept showing up on my instrument panel. The owners manual didn't say what it was. I googled it and found out that it was the theft deterrent system. It turns out that the transmitter on my key fob stopped working, because when I switched to my spare key, the car started right up. I changed the battery of the bad key fob and that didn't seemed to fix it because I couldn't reprogram it.

Maybe this info can help someone who is having this problem.

 

[Anderson08]

Intermitted no crank on my 2013 LTZ 1.8 was the start/crank relay #5 under hood fuse/relay box causing the problem... high/low ambient temps and it would act up. I guess you can add that to the 'list' of possible causes .. Duralast Part Number: 19264 (rectangular).
They list a second smaller (square) relay as 'starter' it is actually a 'start' relay.

I have a 2012 Lt 1.8 with the same problem but my fuse says it's #4 and none of them say starter or start/crank there is only 2 run/crank.