My girlfriend’s 2014 chevy sonic 1.8L hatchback has been having problems. The cooling fan was not working and the a/c wasn't either, it was just blowing hot air when the compressor button was pushed. I saw on this forum that if the inside dash temperature is way off it is most likely the ambient air temperature sensor on the passenger side bumper so I will try that and update afterwards, since we are in the tropics and it reads -40. She took it to a local mechanic and for some reason he decided to hard wire the fan so it was always on, this was a few months ago, fortunately she doesn't drive more than a few miles per day. When I became involved with the car, I checked the codes since the check engine light was on, one of them was a temperature sensor high or low code and there were two others, unfortunately i lost the photo of the codes and have since taken it to the dealer and they erased the codes on monday. The dealer said that the fan wiring is melted and the fan needs to be replaced and that the thermostat housing needs to be replaced. They wanted about $900 to do this so I decided to try myself at this point. I replaced the entire thermostat housing , not just the thermostat, with the part in this link:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-033/11579180-P?searchTerm=thermostat+housing
This is not the original manufacturer part, but it has a lifetime warranty and it is cast aluminum, which seems as if it would be better than the plastic limited warranty original part.
I have only driven about 30 miles since the codes were cleared at the dealer. After replacing the thermostat and housing, I started up the car and put the heat on with the fan on 1. I waited about 10 minutes and only small air bubbles were coming out. I put added a bit more coolant as necessary, but the level never suddenly dropped significantly as I expected it to do when the thermostat opens. I gave the car some gas but still the level didn't drop. Does this mean the thermostat isn't opening?
I tested the fan by disconnecting the connectors and applying 12 volts from the battery across the red and black wires and the fan came on so I know the fan motor is good. Both the connector on the fan side as well as the connector giving it power have melted plastic near the terminals. The fan side connector still worked when I put an alligator clip on the metal contact, but could either of these connectors be the problem? See the attached pic of the damaged connectors below:
WHere can I purchase just these connectors or the wiring harnesses and what would they even be called?
After this, i decided to test the relays and fuses. I checked:
08 cool fan K3
And
13 cool fan K1
By applying 12 from the battery across the electromagnetic switch and it came clicked on for both of them. I then tested continuity across the low power side of the circuits and both had 0 ohms resistance so I am assuming they are good? I checked the
6 cool fan k5 40amp
And
7 cool fan k4 30amp
By pulling them out and seeing that the fuse was whole, both were. I tested both for continuity and they read 0 ohms. I put a new
11 ac clutch relay in because I had it.
Still the fan did not work. What could be the problem here?
I will update this post with the codes when the light comes back on.
Thank you in advance,
Mike.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-033/11579180-P?searchTerm=thermostat+housing
This is not the original manufacturer part, but it has a lifetime warranty and it is cast aluminum, which seems as if it would be better than the plastic limited warranty original part.
I have only driven about 30 miles since the codes were cleared at the dealer. After replacing the thermostat and housing, I started up the car and put the heat on with the fan on 1. I waited about 10 minutes and only small air bubbles were coming out. I put added a bit more coolant as necessary, but the level never suddenly dropped significantly as I expected it to do when the thermostat opens. I gave the car some gas but still the level didn't drop. Does this mean the thermostat isn't opening?
I tested the fan by disconnecting the connectors and applying 12 volts from the battery across the red and black wires and the fan came on so I know the fan motor is good. Both the connector on the fan side as well as the connector giving it power have melted plastic near the terminals. The fan side connector still worked when I put an alligator clip on the metal contact, but could either of these connectors be the problem? See the attached pic of the damaged connectors below:
WHere can I purchase just these connectors or the wiring harnesses and what would they even be called?
After this, i decided to test the relays and fuses. I checked:
08 cool fan K3
And
13 cool fan K1
By applying 12 from the battery across the electromagnetic switch and it came clicked on for both of them. I then tested continuity across the low power side of the circuits and both had 0 ohms resistance so I am assuming they are good? I checked the
6 cool fan k5 40amp
And
7 cool fan k4 30amp
By pulling them out and seeing that the fuse was whole, both were. I tested both for continuity and they read 0 ohms. I put a new
11 ac clutch relay in because I had it.
Still the fan did not work. What could be the problem here?
I will update this post with the codes when the light comes back on.
Thank you in advance,
Mike.
