Crankshaft pulley bolt.

[cxmech]

I had to replace the head on my 2012 sonic 1.8L. I used an impact gun to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt as I have seen I some youtube videos but I havent seen anything explaining how you are supoose to torque the bolt without spinning the engine. I have bought a tool set that is suppose to time my cam actuators to cam shafts and to each other and supposedly it has a flywheel locking tool in there too. Has anyone ever used this and how difficult is it? Hoping to get it finished up tomorrow.

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[ARM]

The crank locking pin is very easy to use. There's a T55 plug in the lower front passenger side of the engine that you pull out, then slide the pin in when the crank is at TDC 1&4.
If you're able to look up in the hole while rotating the crank, you'll see the machined slot come in to view.

 

[cxmech]

Thank you very much. Couldn't find anything on this.

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[cxmech]

So the fourth picture is the kit I got today. I am trying to use the red circled tool as depicted in the first picture but the gap between the transmission and the engine bellhousing is too tight. I have no idea what the tool in the third picture is for. The tool in the fifth picture says it is a flywheel holding tool but I am still trying to figure out where to use that. I guess my big debate here is do I try to grind down the bellhousing to get the tool to fit, or grind down the tool to make it fit?

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[cxmech]

So this video shows the toothed wrench being used to hold the flywheel on an astra, I amguessing the same engine. I dont recall seeing any big openings like that on my sonic. Manual transmission btw.

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[cxmech]

So, I ended up grinding on the bell housing and still couldnt get the tool to fit. Ended up cutting two old saws all blades to make a slightly thinner tool. That seemed to work great, locked the flywheel at TDC and allowed me to torque the crankshaft bolt. My problem now is that I did get it running but it is throwing a p0011 code. Guess I get to pull it all apart tomorrow and re-check the timing. Btw I swapped the vvt solenoids and it didnt make any difference, thought it may have goofed it up during the head change.

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[Smartdave]

Hmm. I guess I am a slacker [emoji23]. I just used my air impact gun on it. Once it didn’t move anymore I figured I was good [emoji106]


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[ib2loud]

Just be careful when torquing down with those tools in place. I've heard horror stories of similar tools being broken off inside the engine on other vehicles (Ford Focus comes to mind).

 

[Z71]

the easiest way to torque the crank damper pulley bolt is to use an appropriate torque limiting extension with an impact wrench. The torque limiting extension will limit the torque to that level, even if your air wrench supplies much higher torque. When the limiting torque is reached, the extension simply flexes in synchrony with the impacts of the air wrench, so no more tightening takes place. No need to hold the damper pulley in place. I have used torque limiting extension successfully several times on various cars when changing the timing belt You can get a torque limiting extension set from harborfreight for about $ 50.

 

[Shawn12345]

2017 Chevy sonic 1.8

Ok so I decided to do a timing belt replacement I bought the kit that came with the belt the water pump the tensioner and the pulley so after I got it all back together I put the harmonic balancer back on and I used the old bolt instead of using the new one I then noticed that the bolt was wobbly as in up and down motion not side to side and the bolt wasn’t stationary and spinning so I could use some advice should I get a new harmonic balancer and change the bolt? This car has never had problems before and it’s got 110,000 miles on it highway

 

[Shawn12345]

the easiest way to torque the crank damper pulley bolt is to use an appropriate torque limiting extension with an impact wrench. The torque limiting extension will limit the torque to that level, even if your air wrench supplies much higher torque. When the limiting torque is reached, the extension simply flexes in synchrony with the impacts of the air wrench, so no more tightening takes place. No need to hold the damper pulley in place. I have used torque limiting extension successfully several times on various cars when changing the timing belt You can get a torque limiting extension set from harborfreight for about $ 50.

Which extension do I use when I buy them and my impact gone has 550 foot pound rating is it good enough and how much is the bolt footpounds

 

[Casual Observer]

2017 Chevy sonic 1.8

Ok so I decided to do a timing belt replacement I bought the kit that came with the belt the water pump the tensioner and the pulley so after I got it all back together I put the harmonic balancer back on and I used the old bolt instead of using the new one I then noticed that the bolt was wobbly as in up and down motion not side to side and the bolt wasn’t stationary and spinning so I could use some advice should I get a new harmonic balancer and change the bolt? This car has never had problems before and it’s got 110,000 miles on it highway

I know this was more than a year ago now but I made the mistake of re-using the crankshaft bolt (and I didn't properly torque it down) it when I started my engine it came loose and wrecked the harmonic balancer and the crank gear. For anybody reading this in the future definitely use new bolts on the crankshaft (and idler pullies/tensioners) and make sure you torque them correctly XD

 

[Z71]

I forget what the factory torque spec is on the crankshaft bolt but I think it is somewhere around 70 to 90 ft-lbs. The crankshaft bolt also has a large thick spacer that you must use under the bolt head and it also must be oriented properly. If you do not use the spacer, the bolt will not hold the crankshaft pulley in place properly. It is also a good idea to use some blue Loktite on the bolt threads before tightening it. As I said before, I used an air impact wrench with a torque limiting extension to tighten the bolt to the proper torque. No problems in the last 16k miles or so.

 

[fa20W]

I forget what the factory torque spec is on the crankshaft bolt but I think it is somewhere around 70 to 90 ft-lbs. The crankshaft bolt also has a large thick spacer that you must use under the bolt head and it also must be oriented properly. If you do not use the spacer, the bolt will not hold the crankshaft pulley in place properly. It is also a good idea to use some blue Loktite on the bolt threads before tightening it. As I said before, I used an air impact wrench with a torque limiting extension to tighten the bolt to the proper torque. No problems in the last 16k miles or so.

Hey where can I buy this bolt, and can someone confirm the torque spec on bolt?

 

[TurtleOverlord]

Hey where can I buy this bolt, and can someone confirm the torque spec on bolt?

Part Number: 24447224
Supersession(s): 94502071


70 ft lbs + 30° + 15°

I just hit it with an impact wrench.