Downpipe / Exhaust question

[JAVO]

I really want to jump right into modding my new Sonic. And have some questions if you don't mind..
I want an exhaust but I don't want the (for lack of a better term) ricey sound.
I have friends that have Subarus that have full Borla cat back exhausts and they sound really good. I know it's a bigger engine and the boxer motor is going to sound different but can anyone recommend something that doesn't sound like I'm in high school? I want the better breathing I just prefer the lower pitched sound at idle and if I drop the hammer I understand it will be a little louder but I dont want it to sound like I've straight piped a metro or put glass packs on it.

Please forgive me if you like that sound, I don't hate it. I'm just almost 40, I daily drive, divorced and dating and don't want people thinking I'm trying to be 17 again. (For the record in, 1991 I did put a glass pack and echo tip on a 1989 Chrysler LeBaron Convertible with a Turbo motor). I do want the performance though, with that will come some noise I understand.

I want to buy downpipe (if there are performance gains not just noise) and I see that BNR has one that removes the first cat. Since I will be buying upgrades in stages and the downpipe is more affordable, will it be ok to buy that first and bolt it on? Or would you recommend buying the exhaust first? Is it even worth it if I'm purely looking for power gains?

Can someone explain to me what the benefit of the test pipe is? It looks like it's just straight pipe that removes the second cat. Is it larger diameter than the stock section? Why is it called a test pipe? It sounds like it's "for testing purposes only" because of questionable legality from removing the cat. Is there a section like that, that has a freeer flowing cat if I wanted to keep the cat? Or would it be best just to keep the stock section and get a system from the second cat back?

Thanks in advance. I have a million questions and look forward to learning lots. My last 3 vehicles have been Jeeps. I loved wrenching on them and taking them offroad, I just got tired of the 11 mpg on a long commute. The Sonic is a blast to drive (especially compared to the jeep). The end goal is to have an affordable reliable daily driver that looks good, doesn't sound like a highschoolers that I can take my VP to lunch in and on my way home race a Fiat 500 or Mini Cooper up the Tollway..

 

[rdss]

Sound, go with a straight through resonator and muffler, it will give you better flow with 2 1/4- 2 1/2" pipe. It will get you a quite deeper sound than stock.

Test pipe, not sure of the name but I'm leaning towards your definition. The factory second cat reduces down to the factory cat back diameter right after the cat so you have a true 2 1/2" pipe and no restriction from a cat.

Down pipe, it's performance gain is obvious. You remove the cat and flow increases.

Removing both cats will increase the sound quite a bit, so I would start with a cat back (DDM/SLP/Borla) and then add the test pipe then down pipe.

I'm running a test pipe and SLP cat back with a tailpipe extension to work on the sedan. It sounds great, I also look for the discreet sound and flow increase.

BNR is a great place to buy, Jerry offers free shipping on most if not all of his products.

 

[Eric Smit]

A) Just reference, I have a 2.5" straight pipe, including catless downpipe. Gimme a sec and I'll get you a link.
http://www.sonicownersforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4041

B) To test if a catalytic converter has gone bad, it is swapped with the test pipe. If the problems go away, there is an issue with the cat. Hence the name.

link for BNR in my sig. It's where I buy all my stuff. Jerry is very helpful.

-Eric Smit

 

[JAVO]

I'm not sure what the implications are of removing both cats from an emissions standpoint. I want to comply with the emissions laws in my county and I don't want to remove either / both if it will hurt my warranty. With my jeep every little thing I did if I needed warranty work they would blame it on lift, tires, etc even if what it was in for had nothing to do with it. I had draw a chart "See! The 3 inch lift springs have nothing to do with the weather seal on the top"

 

[JAVO]

A) Just reference, I have a 2.5" straight pipe, including catless downpipe. Gimme a sec and I'll get you a link.
Catless Downpipe installed. - Chevy Sonic Owners Forum

B) To test if a catalytic converter has gone bad, it is swapped with the test pipe. If the problems go away, there is an issue with the cat. Hence the name.

link for BNR in my sig. It's where I buy all my stuff. Jerry is very helpful.

-Eric Smit

Yeah sorry man. I'm not a fan of that sound at all. I've read several of your posts and you have a lot of cool stuff and if this was just a play car I might consider that, but I spend 2 hours + a day in my vehicle and I can't deal with that. I'm not trying to be rude, you have a sweet car and because of some of your posts and pictures I bought the ultragauge. I need something way milder on the sound.

 

[Eric Smit]

You should definitely look at rdss' exhaust.


-Eric Smit

 

[JAVO]

go with a straight through resonator and muffler

Can you elaborate?

Thanks

 

[ThatTmoGuy]

i just cut off my muffler and got the deeper sound i was looking for. watch the video in my sig.

 

[rdss]

Can you elaborate?

Thanks

Like I stated above, I am running the SLP cat back and the test pipe (thanks for the definition Eric, I've never really cared enough to research it's name). It gets a little more sound than stock with next to no drone. Going with SLP and the DDM test pie I have gotten a second cat back exhaust that's not to loud, sounds clean and cost $550 (135 test pipe shipped, 399 SLP shipped, 20 tailpipe (18" slip fit straight pipe, clamp and tip. It's a HB exhaust, I have a sedan).

2012 Chevy Sonic SLP cat back 1.4t - YouTube

 

[JAVO]

i just cut off my muffler and got the deeper sound i was looking for. watch the video in my sig.

What intake is that? I love the "woosh" sound...

 

[Eric Smit]

All intakes will get you that sound, and I would highly recommend not getting an Injen.


-Eric Smit

 

[sx sonic]

If your after performance I would go with the downpipe first, it will give you the biggest boost over any other part of the exhaust. The catted downpipe is restrictive, the bends are very restrictive (under 2" od at one spot and its right sfter the turbo which is the worst spot to impede flow.

It will bump your sound up alil, give more turbo noise and improve the overrev consideribly (after 5k it really helps keep the car from falling off power)

The downside is it will cause issues with warranty coverage unless you swap it out before takeing it to the dealer unless u swap it back to stock before taking it in. (Takes about 45 mins)
Your check engine light will probably come on because the 2nd O2 sensors gonna detect higher emmisions (I'm at about 60mi now w/o a cel so it might take o while or somehow not get detected)

Some food for thought

-tyler

 

[Eric Smit]

What he said.


-Eric Smit

 

[ThatTmoGuy]

What intake is that? I love the "woosh" sound...

that actually just an intake mod, check my build thread for a how to. Dozens of the people here have done them. if you are going to purchase an intake i would get the DDM, it comes in many great colors and you get a heat shield with it. plus they took there time and made it it the right way.

 

[Eric Smit]

I would go with ZZP over DDM. ZZP has a bigger, shorter pipe.


-Eric Smit

 

[Larry]

I would go with ZZP over DDM. ZZP has a bigger, shorter pipe.


-Eric Smit

Is that what she said?

 

[Eric Smit]

Is that what she said?

Damn straight.


-Eric Smit

 

[JAVO]

If your after performance I would go with the downpipe first, it will give you the biggest boost over any other part of the exhaust. The catted downpipe is restrictive, the bends are very restrictive (under 2" od at one spot and its right sfter the turbo which is the worst spot to impede flow.

It will bump your sound up alil, give more turbo noise and improve the overrev consideribly (after 5k it really helps keep the car from falling off power)

The downside is it will cause issues with warranty coverage unless you swap it out before takeing it to the dealer unless u swap it back to stock before taking it in. (Takes about 45 mins)
Your check engine light will probably come on because the 2nd O2 sensors gonna detect higher emmisions (I'm at about 60mi now w/o a cel so it might take o while or somehow not get detected)

Some food for thought

-tyler

I'm not interested in lights being on or having warranty issues. Is there a downpipe that has a cat with better air flow?

 

[CoHPhasor]

I'm not interested in lights being on or having warranty issues. Is there a downpipe that has a cat with better air flow?

Do you think you answered your own question?
There is not, nor will there be a replacement "1st cat"/"downpipe" replacement.

There are high-flow cats out there but they are "main cats" and are not going to be fitted to a turbo exhaust housing.

The "pre-cat"/"1st cat" is the single biggest restriction to the turbo on the exhaust side.
If you removed only the cat at the turbo you'd still get a good boost out of it and see less lag.

That being said, no one half-asses this one, you either replace it with a straight(down) pipe or you leave the stock one so nobody is going to make a high-flow replacement, there's simply not enough demand to make it cost effective.

 

[Eric Smit]

In short, no.


-Eric Smit