Preloader's New Direction

[Preloader]

wow, hate to see this keep happening to you

Oddly enough I live for this kind of sh¡t. It gives me a rush to be faced with impending doom, and then realize that I can overcome the obstacle all by myself with my own resources and skills.

Speaking of resources...... It just so happens I have a full engine wiring harness in my garage from the teardown engine. I have to dig it up, but I'm hoping it has the cam positioner plug that I need on it.

 

[SouthFLSonic]

There's a decent video someone uploaded to youtube. he tried to fish it in there without removing the bracket and then had to go back and remove the bracket because he couldn't get past the bracket and the tensioner.

This video? It's of a Cruz but same motor.

 

[Preloader]

There's a decent video someone uploaded to youtube. he tried to fish it in there without removing the bracket and then had to go back and remove the bracket because he couldn't get past the bracket and the tensioner.

That's kind of what I figured. I've been on the fence about putting the stock motor mount back in. Maybe this would be the time to do it.

 

[River_Rat]

This video? It's of a Cruz but same motor.

Yeah, you're right. That's the one.

 

[Preloader]

So I'm all set and back up and running. Yes the motor mount must be removed and the mount bracket on the engine as well. Luckily it wasn't very difficult to access the bolts.

What saved my ass was having the spare engine wiring harness. GM wanted $40 just for the little connector for the cam positioner. And it would have taking a day for them to get it. I just cut it off of the spare harness and soldered it on to my cut wires.

I also DID put the stock motor mount back in instead of the TTR. God it's been almost 30k miles since I felt what the stocker feels like. kind of nice, although I already miss the response and mild buzz of the TTR mount.

Next on the list is raising the suspension back up about 1/2" and possibly ditching the ZZP downpipe for the stock downpipe.

 

[CheapFuneral]

So I'm all set and back up and running. Yes the motor mount must be removed and the mount bracket on the engine as well. Luckily it wasn't very difficult to access the bolts.

What saved my ass was having the spare engine wiring harness. GM wanted $40 just for the little connector for the cam positioner. And it would have taking a day for them to get it. I just cut it off of the spare harness and soldered it on to my cut wires.

I also DID put the stock motor mount back in instead of the TTR. God it's been almost 30k miles since I felt what the stocker feels like. kind of nice, although I already miss the response and mild buzz of the TTR mount.

Next on the list is raising the suspension back up about 1/2" and possibly ditching the ZZP downpipe for the stock downpipe.

If u haven't sold your down pipe id be interested in taking it off your hands.

 

[Preloader]

I may love the sound of my exhaust too much to change it out. I don't know yet.

 

[mitdr774]

Dont change it. I ditched the side exit for a rear exit for several reasons. The biggest being that I do not want to autocross with two 2.5" exhaust pipes going over the twist beam. After having that setup on the car I absolutely hate the sound of the SLP muffler now.

 

[Preloader]

I'm a lil nervous about the ZZP pipe in conduction with the stock sloppy motor mount though. The motor moves around a ton with the stock mount. I mean a ton. I can feel it in lower gears more than I'd like to.

The ZZP is only supported at the v-clamp, and I can picture it fatiguing and breaking in the longterm. I believe that happened to Eric once upon a time.

 

[mitdr774]

Is there any way to add in a support? I have debated doing that with my header.

Another option would be to tether the motor so that it can only move so far.

 

[SuperSonicRS]

Another option would be to tether the motor so that it can only move so far.

Maybe one of those engine torque dampers? Any opinions on those?

I think it won't have anywhere near the effect of the solid mount, but it should help some, but on the plus side you wouldn't get the not so good vibrations.

 

[ss2000slp]

Do you have both of your stock mounts back on?

 

[Preloader]

Nope. Keeping the Trans mount poly. Gotta leave some fun.

I wish there was an in between option for the motor mount. Softer than the TTR, but stiffer than OEM. I very much dislike my engine twerking like a white girl under my hood. But I am enjoying how smooth the engine operation feels.

 

[ss2000slp]

Wow, gotta say that is one of the few times I have actually laughed out loud while reading a forum. With just the lower trans mount, I wouldn't think it would move enough to snap the downpipe off. You still have the flex in the exhaust to help with movement.

 

[ss2000slp]

Also, if you think it would be an issue, it would be pretty straight forward to weld a small tab onto the pipe and bolt it to where the factory cat mounted to on the engine.

 

[Preloader]

Indeed it would be pretty easy for me to weld a tab that bolts to the block. It would put the stress 100% on the flex where it's preferred.

Come to think of it, I don't know if I have the right wire to weld on stainless. I suppose if I removed it, I could take it to work and TIG it. But again, my new direction is to limit my time modifying. If I'm gonna go through the effort to take the ZZP off, I'd probably just put the OEM on. Ultimately it'll have to go back on when I'm due for SMOG in 2 years.

Maybe I'll play DP roulette and see if stays in one piece til then.

 

[ss2000slp]

1 band clamp and 3 bolts IS a lot of work...

 

[Preloader]

This ain't no TmoGuy build.



sorry Tmo

 

[2014 Blue RS]

Indeed it would be pretty easy for me to weld a tab that bolts to the block. It would put the stress 100% on the flex where it's preferred.

Come to think of it, I don't know if I have the right wire to weld on stainless. I suppose if I removed it, I could take it to work and TIG it. But again, my new direction is to limit my time modifying. If I'm gonna go through the effort to take the ZZP off, I'd probably just put the OEM on. Ultimately it'll have to go back on when I'm due for SMOG in 2 years.

Maybe I'll play DP roulette and see if stays in one piece til then.

There is a legal option to avert the smog checks if your're interested. CA smog regulation comes in 3 flavors:

Enhanced = Dyno, Sniff the tail pipe and visual
Basic = No Dyno
Change of Ownership = No smog except when buying or selling

These are based on population density.

Register your vehicle in a Change of Ownership area while it is still smog legal and you will not have to do a smog check until you sell it or "move out of the area". This is what I have been doing for many years. Only the vehicles address changes, not your drivers license.

Let me know if your interested, or curious and I'll give you the full details with all the links from the DMV website.

 

[Preloader]

Thanks for the advice. I'm aware of the non-smog county address trick. I honestly won't mind putting the stock pipe on for smog. That's also why I went with a high flow 2nd cat instead of delete.

This car will be much easier to revert for smog than my old 84 z/28. Taking those air injection rails on and off the exhaust manifolds, was a major bitch.