Subwoofer

[Demonicon]

So I'm getting a Sub and amp and might keep the radio stock as I got the premium one and it sounds ok, I'm wondering what I need to make a subwoofer compatible with the MyLink...do I need one of those in-line converters or does the MyLink have amp outs?

 

[JTee2017]

So I'm getting a Sub and amp and might keep the radio stock as I got the premium one and it sounds ok, I'm wondering what I need to make a subwoofer compatible with the MyLink...do I need one of those in-line converters or does the MyLink have amp outs?

No amp outputs on the stock amp .. . so a speaker connection to a LOC will work fine.

 

[Demonicon]

No amp outputs on the stock amp .. . so a speaker connection to a LOC will work fine.

Decided I'd rather fully replace the sound system xD. Speakers, Radio, multi channel amp, mono amp, subs (found some nice low profile ones). Is the MyLink replaceable? Or?

 

[Bl4d3]

You'll need something like the Metra dash kit that comes with the wiring harness so you can keep most of your functionality.

What I did to bypass using an aftermarket radio was use the high level inputs on my JBL amp, this allowed me to take signal from the original speaker wires to the amp. I then ran new speaker wires back tot he new speakers from the amp.
That solved the problem but introduced a ground loop.

Do fix that, I then installed a powered DECENT high low converter which I installed behind the radio, I ran power from the cigarette lighter and earthed it to the dash metal frame.

Then it is paramount you install a decent wiring kit, I strongly recommend at least 4 gauge from a reputable brand, preferably silicone coated as it wont deteriorate as fast as PVC coated.

So I have the following installed :
JBL GX-A604 4 channel amp. Running as 2 channel audio and 1 channel bass.
JBL GTO609C Split System
Unknown Targe Subwoofer (my brothers old sub, still need to upgrade)
Reference Audio 4 gauge wiring kit
Reference Audio High Low Converter

The sound is crystal clear and absolutely superb at all volume levels.

 

[Demonicon]

You'll need something like the Metra dash kit that comes with the wiring harness so you can keep most of your functionality.

What I did to bypass using an aftermarket radio was use the high level inputs on my JBL amp, this allowed me to take signal from the original speaker wires to the amp. I then ran new speaker wires back tot he new speakers from the amp.
That solved the problem but introduced a ground loop.

Do fix that, I then installed a powered DECENT high low converter which I installed behind the radio, I ran power from the cigarette lighter and earthed it to the dash metal frame.

Then it is paramount you install a decent wiring kit, I strongly recommend at least 4 gauge from a reputable brand, preferably silicone coated as it wont deteriorate as fast as PVC coated.

So I have the following installed :
JBL GX-A604 4 channel amp. Running as 2 channel audio and 1 channel bass.
JBL GTO609C Split System
Unknown Targe Subwoofer (my brothers old sub, still need to upgrade)
Reference Audio 4 gauge wiring kit
Reference Audio High Low Converter

The sound is crystal clear and absolutely superb at all volume levels.

Do you know exactly which functionality is lost using the metra kit?

also do you have a link to the Metra Dash Kit the only thing I could find on crutch were universal items

Also I'd have bestbuy install it cuz idk how to do it myself and I don't want to pay an extremely high price from some private audio places so I wouldn't want to task them with anything above their capability level. Also wasn't there sound processing units that work better than line converters...I forget what they are called, I think one of the models was the Kicker Premier or something...

EDIT: It was Kicker FrontRow Digital Signal Processor I was thinking of which was cheap like 300 bucks then I was reading about a more popular and more recommended unit but it was like 650. Seems telling BBuy doesn't have the FrontRow in stock anymore though.

 

[Bl4d3]

Well I have a base model sonic without bluetooth and onstar.
To my understanding, you'd loose the ability to change certain settings like light times, chime level, etc.
You'd need this, assuming you have a 2012 - 2016 model : http://www.metraonline.com/part/99-3012G

I'm from South Africa so we dont have a bestbuy here, but in all fairness from what I heard, I wouldnt trust those people with a 10mm spanner and philips screw driver, let alone installing a car audio system that has the potential to possibly caused your car to light up into flames if done incorrectly.

Rather pay the premium and have someone who knows what they're doing install it.

You do get line processors but its absolutely unnecessary for a small install, a decent high low converter will work fine, just stick with a decent reputable brand. Remember, you get what you pay for.


As I said, I'm running a high low converter and it works perfectly fine. The only issue is that I pulled power from the cigarette lighter, so it turns off as soon as I open my door, which means I've lost the chime that indicates I've left my lights on, easy problem to solve though

 

[Demonicon]

Well I have a base model sonic without bluetooth and onstar.
To my understanding, you'd loose the ability to change certain settings like light times, chime level, etc.
You'd need this, assuming you have a 2012 - 2016 model : http://www.metraonline.com/part/99-3012G

I'm from South Africa so we dont have a bestbuy here, but in all fairness from what I heard, I wouldnt trust those people with a 10mm spanner and philips screw driver, let alone installing a car audio system that has the potential to possibly caused your car to light up into flames if done incorrectly.

Rather pay the premium and have someone who knows what they're doing install it.

You do get line processors but its absolutely unnecessary for a small install, a decent high low converter will work fine, just stick with a decent reputable brand. Remember, you get what you pay for.


As I said, I'm running a high low converter and it works perfectly fine. The only issue is that I pulled power from the cigarette lighter, so it turns off as soon as I open my door, which means I've lost the chime that indicates I've left my lights on, easy problem to solve though

I got a 2017

would either of these work you think?

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioc...r-with-accubass-black/5873400.p?skuId=5873400

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioc...r-with-accubass-black/5873402.p?skuId=5873402

Bestbuy isn't terrible I'll probably just have to go back there a few times after they instlal it until they get it right lol.

 

[Bl4d3]

Dang, those are fancy.

The LC2i should be more than ample

 

[Ksull72487]

Your gonna want the Big 4 upgrade from ZZP. These cars don’t push enough power. Even without adding things I’d probably do it for $40. Before you start adding anything to that electrical system I’d be doing that first as preventative maintenance.

Trust me it’s a must. These little Econobox cars weren’t built for Amps, Subs etc. Stock the big 4 isn’t a bad upgrade.

Without it your going to see dimming headlights, voltage drops etc. I wouldn’t go to crazy upgrading thinks you can do an amp and a sub but truthfully it really isn’t needed as mylink with 6 speakers isn’t terrible. If you start changing things consider what you want or what you need vs what you have. Your not gonna need too much in this little car to get an improvement. Plus the dash is all plastic. It’s gonna rattle to itself to pieces. So smaller is better. The door speakers is all you need. But if you did a Sub a 10” is fine.

I don’t typically upgrade sound systems anymore but my last two cars were BMW Products. You don’t need to do anything to them. When I did upgrade, it was mainly on small cars like the Sonic. My experience was I always over did it and it was always more work or sound then it was worth.

https://zzperformance.com/products/big-4-power-wire-kit