Traction Control Warning Light Followed by Power Steering Light While Driving

[megadave]

Recently, (late November) I started having failures of my Stabilitrak and power steering. It seems that any type of driving that engages traction control causes it to fail (traction control light comes on and stays on) followed by or simultaneously with a power steering failure (power steering light comes on and stays on, power steering fails). If I continue to drive other symptoms arise like the tachometer and speedometer also malfunction. After turning off car for a while and restart it drives as if nothing happened, until at some point the problem event repeats itself. I ran a scan with Blue Driver OBDII scanner this morning and I only got U0100 and U0073 codes returned (My first time using a scan tool, no dash lights or MILs when I ran). Also a likely unrelated B3883 code
I suspect it might be a mechanical issue with the steering because it makes an audible clicking noise when turning sharply at slow speed but that is not new. In the past I thought it was CV axle but I replaced those this summer and sound never went away. I do think I smell the clutch burning more often though, I plan on changing that soon anyways but could this be a cause as well?

Other things to note about my vehicle:
2013 Chevy Sonic RS (manual transmission) - 137,091 miles
aftermarket 18 inch wheels, 235/40R18 tires
aftermarket coil overs / sway bar end links
New Moog tie rods and control arms
New OEM CV axles

I think I will try to recreate the issue and scan when MILs are on and possibly get more codes. Any trouble shooting advice? I know I will likely have to take to dealer/mechanic soon but I want to at least take opportunity to learn how to diagnose these type problems myself before then. I have tools and novice/hobbyist mechanic experience


Everything else is stock and probably original parts for the most part as far as steering and stabilitrak system/modules go

 

[Thelastosirus]

Hey you ever figured this issue out?

I had a few stabiltrak issues myself but they were self induced from doing maintenance and "missing" something. Usually it was a loose electrical connector. This car is very picky about drivetrain electrical issues. Don't leave a OAT or MAF plug off or this'll happen also. If you haven't recently performed any maintence, then you may want to look at and rubbing/interference issues with your wheel speed sensor & modified wheels & suspension.

 

[SonicAl]

Recently, (late November) I started having failures of my Stabilitrak and power steering. It seems that any type of driving that engages traction control causes it to fail (traction control light comes on and stays on) followed by or simultaneously with a power steering failure (power steering light comes on and stays on, power steering fails). If I continue to drive other symptoms arise like the tachometer and speedometer also malfunction. After turning off car for a while and restart it drives as if nothing happened, until at some point the problem event repeats itself. I ran a scan with Blue Driver OBDII scanner this morning and I only got U0100 and U0073 codes returned (My first time using a scan tool, no dash lights or MILs when I ran). Also a likely unrelated B3883 code
I suspect it might be a mechanical issue with the steering because it makes an audible clicking noise when turning sharply at slow speed but that is not new. In the past I thought it was CV axle but I replaced those this summer and sound never went away. I do think I smell the clutch burning more often though, I plan on changing that soon anyways but could this be a cause as well?

Other things to note about my vehicle:
2013 Chevy Sonic RS (manual transmission) - 137,091 miles
aftermarket 18 inch wheels, 235/40R18 tires
aftermarket coil overs / sway bar end links
New Moog tie rods and control arms
New OEM CV axles

I think I will try to recreate the issue and scan when MILs are on and possibly get more codes. Any trouble shooting advice? I know I will likely have to take to dealer/mechanic soon but I want to at least take opportunity to learn how to diagnose these type problems myself before then. I have tools and novice/hobbyist mechanic experience


Everything else is stock and probably original parts for the most part as far as steering and stabilitrak system/modules go

Sorry for the necropost, but I've had the same issue and it's driving me crazy. It's gotten worse so that now I cannot drive the car.

OP, did you ever get this solved?

 

[megadave]

Sorry for the necropost, but I've had the same issue and it's driving me crazy. It's gotten worse so that now I cannot drive the car.

OP, did you ever get this solved?

I have not gotten it resolved. And it recently got much less intermittent and more of a consistent issue with my car. Coming back to see if either of you gotten your issues resolved lol

 

[megadave]

I have not gotten it resolved. And it recently got much less intermittent and more of a consistent issue with my car. Coming back to see if either of you gotten your issues resolved lol

Also my codes now are P069e accompanied by U0100. Sets pretty much every time I drive the car now

 

[SonicAl]

I have not gotten it resolved. And it recently got much less intermittent and more of a consistent issue with my car. Coming back to see if either of you gotten your issues resolved lol

I THINK I may have fixed the issue.

I saw a number of YT videos that a bad negative battery cable often causes issues like this, so I replaced the negative battery cable on Saturday. It was a bit of a pain getting to the ground point for the cable (it's under the battery tray), but I was finally able to get it wrenched in. Sadly, that didn't fix the issue. I was, however, convinced that it was an issue with an electric ground.

So on Sunday I poked around the engine bay and thought I should check for a blown fuse. In the process of trying to get the fuse box cover off, I unscrewed a metal screw at the top of the fuse box since I thought it was holding the tray closed. Didn't realize that I just needed to squeeze the clip next to the screw to remove the lid. I checked the fuses and didn't find anything wrong, so I was pretty discouraged.

When I went to close up the fuse box, I put the bolt back on the metal screw and wrenched it down nice and tight. That got me wondering - why is that screw there in the first place if it isn't holding down the cover? Looking at it, I think it might be -- get this -- the ground point for the fuse box! I started up the car and by golly, everything was working! Power steering, AC blower, engine would shift, no stabilitrak warning lights - everything was working. Took it on a 10 mile drive to see if anything would go wrong, but it's driving fine. It's now Wednesday, so it's only been three days, but so far, the car is running great.

tl;dr - (1) replace your negative battery cable and (2) tighten the electrical screws going into and out of your fuse box!

 

[megadave]

Thank you so much! About to try this. Hope your car is still running well since this fix

 

[SonicAl]

Thank you so much! About to try this. Hope your car is still running well since this fix

Still running strong. Let us know how it goes for you.

 

[megadave]

Update: unfortunately my traction control light / power steering loss returned a day later. I tightened the nut again and it went away again, so idk if doing that actually helps in my case or just placebo? In your case was the nut noticeable loose or anything? It felt snug the first time but maybe it needs to be like SUPER tight?


I will try actually replacing the negative terminal also. Seeing those lights come up and feeling my steering wheel lock up once again kinda bummed me out.

 

[RichSPK]

I just had a similar problem pop up yesterday. Searching these forums turned up a few reports of the problems being caused by an Ultra Gauge or Scan Gauge II plugged into the diagnostic port. I have an Ultra Gauge, so I'll try unplugging that next time I go to the car. I hope the problem goes away! I also had some work done on the car last week, so it's possible a cable isn't fastened tightly or a connector is loose or a pin is bent...

 

[ElizabethRC]

It seems your Chevy Sonic RS is experiencing Stabilitrak and power steering failures, with intermittent symptoms like malfunctioning tachometer and speedometer. Codes U0100 and U0073 indicate communication issues. Check electrical connections, inspect power steering components, and monitor clutch performance. Recreate the issue to gather more diagnostic data. Consider seeking professional help if problems persist.

 

[RichSPK]

I just had a similar problem pop up yesterday. Searching these forums turned up a few reports of the problems being caused by an Ultra Gauge or Scan Gauge II plugged into the diagnostic port. I have an Ultra Gauge, so I'll try unplugging that next time I go to the car. I hope the problem goes away! I also had some work done on the car last week, so it's possible a cable isn't fastened tightly or a connector is loose or a pin is bent...

Quick follow-up: the problem went away as soon as I unplugged my Ultra Gauge. The check engine light was on for a day or two after, then it went out. I've been meaning to scan for stored codes, but I keep forgetting.
The cable for my Ultra Gauge is in rough shape. That may be the problem. At some point, I'll look into replacing the cable, but I found the Ultra Gauge display to be too small and cluttered to read while driving, so no rush.

 

[SonicAl]

Update: unfortunately my traction control light / power steering loss returned a day later. I tightened the nut again and it went away again, so idk if doing that actually helps in my case or just placebo? In your case was the nut noticeable loose or anything? It felt snug the first time but maybe it needs to be like SUPER tight?


I will try actually replacing the negative terminal also. Seeing those lights come up and feeling my steering wheel lock up once again kinda bummed me out.

It's been a month since I tightened the fuse box nut, and it's still running fine. Knock on wood.

I'm actually a bit dumbfounded that something so simple might have been the source of so much headache.

Hope your car is working okay now.