Official Wheel and Tire Fitment Thread
- Thread starter Eric Smit
- Start date
Wong
New member
What Eric said...
Have them drilled and call it a day. Dont run (or try to run) an adapter.
I had my 5x100 drilled
Gotcha. If I get them re-drilled will a 15mm spacer still fit within the fender? It sounds like it will. My logic is:
ET39 + 19mm spacer = Flush
ET38 + 15mm spacer = Almost flush
Yes, I have read the spacer post from Dave and understand why they are not preferred.
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Thaifight-R
Pika Pii!!!
Do keep in mind that ET varies in terms of poke as you go wider ( in wheel width). Basically, it's -6mm for every .5" wider the wheel is, and +6mm for every .5" narrower the wheel width is.
So in your case, 7.5" wide wheel with an ET +38 would be equivalent to an 8" wide wheel with ET +38 +6mm = +44 in terms of poke.
With 19mm adapters, your offset would be +38 -19 = +19, or ET25 on an 8" wide wheel.
For reference, here's an 8" wide wheel with ET30.
Your set up with the adapters will poke 5mm more than this set up. (This does not consider the tire size! In this picture, the tire is a stretched 205/45, not to mention his fender/quarter panel is pulled slightly, so running 215's or 225's will most likely poke more than 5mm)
In general,
Will these wheels with adapters poke/stick out past the fenders? Most likely; at least in the rear anyways.
I hope that helps!
As for where I pulled the offset conversion numbers from, look at this chart.
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Thaifight-R
Pika Pii!!!
Also, you can only run adapters smaller than (20mm? check me on this; I'm fairly sure it's just based on the size of the studs) if you have wheels with this type of mount/back pad:
Take note of the little craters next to the lug holes.
If you try to put smaller adapters on wheels with this type of backpad:
You will run into clearance issues, where the stock studs will stick past the adapters and hit the wheel (which makes it impossible to mount the wheel)
If I understand correctly, this is the reason why Opticon had to shave his stock studs.
And SherbertFrenzy! didn't.
STI wheel backpad:
cE9s4PudvOBRLMDzFcz!~~60_57.JPG)
The interesting thing though is that the latter wheels (the ones bad for thin adapters) are actually more favored for wheel redrills because there is more room/meat to work with for redrilling. (for the most part)
Most people won't redrill wheels with the first mount/back pad because there is very little room for drilling. (and of course, you can't really mount the wheels if you redilled into the little craters/crevices!)
Also, when choosing a set of wheels for redrilling, be wary of how big the centerbore (the hole in the middle of the wheels) is since it would be pretty sketchy if your lug holes were like a mm away from it. haha
One more thing:
For redrilling wheels, try to find a place that will FILL and REDRILL and not just redrill. (And if the wheels have a bigger centerbore than the Sonic, be sure to get hubcentric rings)
For wheel adapters, be sure they are hubcentric.
This should prevent wheel vibrations and reduce the stress on the studs.
Apologies for the double post. Just thought that it would make it a bit easier to read.
Overall, if you are sure that you want to run these wheels, and the back of the wheels doesn't have the little crater thing, you're best off with redrilling them.
Edit:
Just remembered that Preloader's also running 18x7.5's, although his wheels are ET42 (correct me if I'm wrong)
With 215/40/18 BFG g-Force KDW NT
So if you redrilled the BBS RC's, and wrapped them with 215/40 tires, you can imagine that they will stick out another 4mm compared to Preloader's set up. (So you'll probably be ok if you redrill.)
Take note of the little craters next to the lug holes.
If you try to put smaller adapters on wheels with this type of backpad:
You will run into clearance issues, where the stock studs will stick past the adapters and hit the wheel (which makes it impossible to mount the wheel)
If I understand correctly, this is the reason why Opticon had to shave his stock studs.
And SherbertFrenzy! didn't.
STI wheel backpad:
The interesting thing though is that the latter wheels (the ones bad for thin adapters) are actually more favored for wheel redrills because there is more room/meat to work with for redrilling. (for the most part)
Most people won't redrill wheels with the first mount/back pad because there is very little room for drilling. (and of course, you can't really mount the wheels if you redilled into the little craters/crevices!)
Also, when choosing a set of wheels for redrilling, be wary of how big the centerbore (the hole in the middle of the wheels) is since it would be pretty sketchy if your lug holes were like a mm away from it. haha
One more thing:
For redrilling wheels, try to find a place that will FILL and REDRILL and not just redrill. (And if the wheels have a bigger centerbore than the Sonic, be sure to get hubcentric rings)
For wheel adapters, be sure they are hubcentric.
This should prevent wheel vibrations and reduce the stress on the studs.
Apologies for the double post. Just thought that it would make it a bit easier to read.
Overall, if you are sure that you want to run these wheels, and the back of the wheels doesn't have the little crater thing, you're best off with redrilling them.
Edit:
Just remembered that Preloader's also running 18x7.5's, although his wheels are ET42 (correct me if I'm wrong)
With 215/40/18 BFG g-Force KDW NT
So if you redrilled the BBS RC's, and wrapped them with 215/40 tires, you can imagine that they will stick out another 4mm compared to Preloader's set up. (So you'll probably be ok if you redrill.)
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Wong
New member
And for further reference...if anyone wants to know "if they will fit"
Wheel Offset Calculator - The Ultimate Stance Calculator | Jonathan Rowny
Heres a calculator.
Please note: that our fender distance to hub is 85 not 77.
Wheel Offset Calculator - The Ultimate Stance Calculator | Jonathan Rowny
Heres a calculator.
Please note: that our fender distance to hub is 85 not 77.
Thaifight-R
Pika Pii!!!
Thanks a bunch guys! ^_^
Means a lot.
Haha I completely forgot about the offset calculators. XD
Yeah, that would probably be much better than calculating by hand. lol
Means a lot.
Haha I completely forgot about the offset calculators. XD
Yeah, that would probably be much better than calculating by hand. lol
theenico
New member
That's a sweet calculator. Where did you get the hub to fender lip distance? Did you measure it yourself?
Wong
New member
Yeah, taped a string to my fender with a level on it and let it hang, then measured from hub to the string. I could be a mm +/- but its pretty close.
Also to check my measurements I typed in ZTs wheels and et and it made the calculator flush. 8 inch wide with a 30et and 85 hub to fender.
Also to check my measurements I typed in ZTs wheels and et and it made the calculator flush. 8 inch wide with a 30et and 85 hub to fender.
Thaifight-R
Pika Pii!!!
Does this apply to both front and rear, or just rear?
AdorableKaren
Asian Elite
Hey guys I need help. I have a sonic rs and I was looking for rims. Right now I just have the stock 17's, what can I put into Google to make sure I'm looking at rims that will fit? Any help greatly appreciated
AdorableKaren
Asian Elite
I think just rims for now. I would love black 17's with a red painted lip
