TheBlueBomber
New member
The turbocharger on my sonic is already starting to rust at 9000 miles...I know that they do rust but I'm wondering if it is normal to see it so soon? And if there is a way to remedy it?
Turbo Rust?
- Thread starter TheBlueBomber
- Start date
ChrisJ
Active member
Its bare iron and it gets hot.
So yes.
Remedy it? I guess if you want to I used something to paint my boss' model A's manifold. It was a spray paint that looks grey and I had to bake the manifold in an even after spraying it. I think it was called "cast blast" by Seymour paint.
My turbos will remain rusty and its not hurting anyone.
So yes.
Remedy it? I guess if you want to I used something to paint my boss' model A's manifold. It was a spray paint that looks grey and I had to bake the manifold in an even after spraying it. I think it was called "cast blast" by Seymour paint.
My turbos will remain rusty and its not hurting anyone.
TheBlueBomber
New member
Yes I thought so..I knew they did just didn't expect it so soon..what about removing the manifold heat shield? Maybe not holding all that heat so close to the turbo?
ChrisJ
Active member
The shield is there to shield other things from the heat. Doubt it would be a good idea.
TheBlueBomber
New member
Sounds good thanks!
You don't want to coat the turbo hosing, as that'll keep the heat in (better to have the heat escape) especially on shut down so that the bearings don't cook... I tend to run my Sonic for about 30 seconds @ idle before a drive of any distance to allow the turbo to cool down with fresh oil, etc.
We raced a Saab 900 turbo in the 24 hours of lemons. The turbo housing (cast iron) was rusty as can be, and would turn bright red @ night when we were running it hard. I was able to see through the housing to where you could make out the vains inside!
We raced a Saab 900 turbo in the 24 hours of lemons. The turbo housing (cast iron) was rusty as can be, and would turn bright red @ night when we were running it hard. I was able to see through the housing to where you could make out the vains inside!
TheBlueBomber
New member
Nr552 that's sick!!! I'm not trying to sound like a total newb cause I'm not really.. I know they do rust I just wanted to be sure that at 9k miles it was normal..thanks everyone
Opticon
New member
How do you know so little about heat energy and water cooled turbochargers?
Oh, that's why. You learned on an "oil cooled" turbo.
Well you don't need to idle a water cooled turbo (convection will keep it from coking) and the heat energy (and the temp differential on both sides of the turbine blades) is what spins the turbo. So keeping the heat in is EXACTLY what you want to do.
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ChrisJ
Active member
Actually, we ran a Garret turbo on our 1988 SPG that was Water/Oil cooled... and yes, we let it idle/cool down prior to shut down (it does help).
The water temp drops slightly which is the main cooling factor with our turbos, but engine oil also needs to be addressed. Good thing I run a full synthetic.
The water temp drops slightly which is the main cooling factor with our turbos, but engine oil also needs to be addressed. Good thing I run a full synthetic.
Opticon
New member
The idea is to retain all the heat energy you can until it gets past the turbine. So you ceramic coat the exhaust manifold and the turbine housing. Inside is better than outside.
AdorableKaren
Asian Elite
I wonder if mine has any rust...I have yet to open my own hood lmao
lmao
Preloader
The M32 Martyr
The whole theory behind the turbocharger is based on the law of ideal gas..... In a fixed volume, as a gas's heat increases so does it's pressure and vice versa. That pressure is the kinetic energy that supplies the drive via the shaft from the turbine to the compressor to force intake pressures well above atmospheric limitations.
A turbo's efficiency is directly impacted by it's ability to convert heat (in the form of gas pressure) to motion. Why would you want to waste any of that thermal energy? Every °F of EGT has a tangible effect on a wheel that uses gas pressure to spin 10's of thousands of times a minute.
tl;dr: heat good inside not out
A turbo's efficiency is directly impacted by it's ability to convert heat (in the form of gas pressure) to motion. Why would you want to waste any of that thermal energy? Every °F of EGT has a tangible effect on a wheel that uses gas pressure to spin 10's of thousands of times a minute.
tl;dr: heat good inside not out
Gsrdude
New member
ChrisJ
Active member
sx sonic
New member
Well said.
~80% of the energy to spin a turbo comes from Heat, the remaining ~20% is from exhaust gas velocity. The more heat you can keep in the exhaust up to the turbo the more efficient you make it.
That's why on your typical turbo car 1st gear is doggy on the line, 2nd starts to wake up, and 3rd in up are always at full howl. The exhaust flow is equal thru all the gears but exhaust heat increases up to a max temp during the run; 1st gear has the coldest turbo temps and least power, 3-4th-5th the turbo will be at/near full heat and making the most power.
Alot of anti lag tuning is based around heating up the turbo for that 1st pull off the line.