Porting the Intake Manifold
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Kuntryboy865
New member
I keep getting the underboost cel but i clear it and it goes back to normal until another some odd miles. If my car was messed up wouldn't still underboost even if I cleared the code??
krakenredbeard
New member
I would say you have a leak small pinhole somewhere depending on frequency of the light. The car when the code is on does that to protect damage from happening. I would check all vaccuum lines. Check all intake clamps and silicone hoses. Check all the silicone hosing that connects to the Intercooler.
If you don't visually see something then I'd look online on how to make a device that will let you check the pressure in those lines and that will help you figure out if it's a actual vacuum leak. Or take it to a place that can check the pressure. Once you have pressure on the system spray soapy water on the lines to see if you see bubbles. Then you'll know where the leak is. If it's not that.
Next step would contact Vince or Dan from trifecta and run a datalog to see if they can narrow anything down.
If they find nothing might need a turbo replacement. I've heard of people getting that code on factory cars and chevy ends up replacing the turbo.
If your out of warranty or voided. Then I'd look at aftermarket turbos or see if you can find factory setup to replace yours.
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broscott87
New member
anyone in phoenix Arizona wants help me port my intake manifold
2014 Blue RS
Active member
Dang you made that look clean. What tool did you use?
I'm officially a member of the club now, yay! And while I was in there I also ground the screws flush in the throttle body, and smoothed out just behind the TB in the intake manifold. Haven't got it all back together yet, soon though.
And like everyone is saying, getting the intake manifold out is pretty straight forward, if you can do brakes and for sure if you've done a timing belt you'll do fine.
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Edit for follow-up report: All went back together without issue, car started up and ran perfect with no codes being thrown, my car is not tuned. Other observations were my throttle body was dry as a bone but like others there was a little oil in the intake.
After making sure everything ran fine I got under the car and wiped off the back of the engine where some of the oil from the intake manifold dripped and I re zip-tied the ones I cut to move wire harnesses out of the way. If you cut the molded in zip-tie off the base that presses into the hole you can fit new zip-ties on to them for a very factory look. And believe it or not the heater hose and wire harness you'll have to re zip-tie to the back underside of the manifold is really easy to get to from under the car.
Hi Guys,
This is an interesting thread, and the results seem to indicate that it is worth doing.
Has anyone any idea why those runners were there in the first place ? Maybe used during manufacture of the manifold...and that little hole in the middle of the runner...seems odd.
I can't help wondering why it was built like that in the first place.
I'll have a go at it, but I'll track down another manifold I think...just in case
Glenn
This is an interesting thread, and the results seem to indicate that it is worth doing.
Has anyone any idea why those runners were there in the first place ? Maybe used during manufacture of the manifold...and that little hole in the middle of the runner...seems odd.
I can't help wondering why it was built like that in the first place.
I'll have a go at it, but I'll track down another manifold I think...just in case
Glenn
Preloader
The M32 Martyr
Another manifold will be ~$400 new IIRC. I think most of us were nervous going into this one. But so far I haven't seen one single person regret it.
The purpose of the tumbler walls is still unconfirmed, but it seems the most rational story is that it is for emissions during cold starts, and also possibly a bit of de-tuning for the mass consumer market of this economy car.
YOLO
The purpose of the tumbler walls is still unconfirmed, but it seems the most rational story is that it is for emissions during cold starts, and also possibly a bit of de-tuning for the mass consumer market of this economy car.
YOLO
Stew
Sedans Rule!
Just your standard Dremel with their fairly aggressive 115 High Speed Cutter bit for hogging out most of the plastic, then a small sanding drum to do some rough finish and cleanup and then a little wire wheel bit to finish it up.
2014 Blue RS
Active member
Awesome. Thanks Stew! My next project . .
Hi Preloader,
I'm on the look out for a 1.4T Cruze secondhand part....looking at the wreckers down here in Oz, there are some late model Cruze's starting to pop up that have had major shunts, and are being parted out.
Certainly, you don't need to do this, as the mod looks simple to do, but I always like to have a " Plan B ", just in case. I'd also like to avoid going to my local dealer to order a manifold if I wanted to go back to stock for any reason. I can just imagine the questions...how did you wear out a manifold and why aren't you looking for warranty ?
I got some good news today...my three year Holden ( GM ) Warranty has just been extended to 5 years/ 130,000 k's, up from three years...so provided they don't pick up my trifecta tune when I do it, yeeha !
Tend to agree with you over the purpose of those runners...they would obviously create some turbulence with the airflow ( my background is aviation ), but exactly why they are there intrigues me....especially the about 1/8 hole in the middle of the runner.
Reading through the whole thread leaves me with a positive feeling that it is worth doing.
Glenn
I'm on the look out for a 1.4T Cruze secondhand part....looking at the wreckers down here in Oz, there are some late model Cruze's starting to pop up that have had major shunts, and are being parted out.
Certainly, you don't need to do this, as the mod looks simple to do, but I always like to have a " Plan B ", just in case. I'd also like to avoid going to my local dealer to order a manifold if I wanted to go back to stock for any reason. I can just imagine the questions...how did you wear out a manifold and why aren't you looking for warranty ?
I got some good news today...my three year Holden ( GM ) Warranty has just been extended to 5 years/ 130,000 k's, up from three years...so provided they don't pick up my trifecta tune when I do it, yeeha !
Tend to agree with you over the purpose of those runners...they would obviously create some turbulence with the airflow ( my background is aviation ), but exactly why they are there intrigues me....especially the about 1/8 hole in the middle of the runner.
Reading through the whole thread leaves me with a positive feeling that it is worth doing.
Glenn
2014 Blue RS
Active member
Ported the intake today! Took notes and lots of pics and a list of all the tools I used. I'll have to figure out how to put these in my garage or a build thread for others to reference. Wasn't that hard but it did take some patience.
Before:
After
Before:
After
ReeseLightning
New member
This is the best mod so far, a first for anyone who is looking to improve drivability. This makes, driving the manual anyway, a world of difference. The throttle response is exactly where it should be now, between first and second it it no longer necessary to push almost 33% pressure now 15% will give you enough power to shift without dropping to 1500rpm. The top end is also extremely smooth now, where as before the car wanted the extra power but was being held back. Again I highly recommend you do this mod if you own a Sonic !! Just waiting on my tune and my lady will become a woman haha
rodslinger
Member
I still haven't gotten around to doing this. Anyone try the hot knife method vs dremel yet? That was what I'm planning on doing.
krakenredbeard
New member
We used a knife for the big chunk then a dremmel to do the rest.
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robsander
New member
I could be mistaken but I thought the trifecta tune wouldn't show up during dealer tests?
10.27 1/8 mile
ReeseLightning
New member
The trifecta tune comes with a translucent feature where by it shows during a scan as a stock flash and flies under the radar of the computer
ReeseLightning
New member
I mean when idling the car doesn't show any noticeable signs of having a tune as far as the rpms being different from stock. They'd have to run a flash to even come across a tune and if they aren't looking for one it won't just alert the mechanics to a tune from what trifecta has said on this issue.
Dubbs_RS
New member
Don't show up with the tune on your car at the dealer. That is asking to void your warranty. The dealer might not be able to see flash count because the tune has transparency mode, but I am sure that if you have the tune on the car they will be able to read the ECU and tell that something has been altered.
Flash back to stock before going to the dealer.