Meet "tigger"
- Thread starter Droewa
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Droewa
New member
ok so I got the sub amp and wire kit installed. 
I ended up building a ported box. I used 3/4 inch MDF with a 1.5 inch front plate. (Two .75 inch mdf glued and screwed together) then I renforced the seems with fiberglass resien. I used a 3 inch port tuned to 30 htz (a peice of pvc did the trick)
I ran the power for the amp down the driver side, from the batt through the firewall (the soft rubber gromit that the factory wire is going through, behind the break pedal) i didnt bother using any of the grommits that came with the kit. The rubber on the grommit on the firewall was so soft it wasnt needed. I tried to get a pic of it.
I ran the rca and the remote down the center consol under the carpet and back seat to the trunk. This was very easy and fast to do. The best part is ya cant tell i did an install at all. ;D
This system hits HARD. when i first hooked it up i wired it @ 1 ohm the bass was enough to make my chest numb. Only problem is its dropping my volts and causing distortion in the cabin speakers. I took a look at the factory electrical wires to the batt. They look to be 8 gauge so my next mod will be "the big 3" to the electrical, by running 0 gauge from the pos of the alt to the pos on the bat, the neg on the bat to the frame and 0 gauge from the engine block to the frame.
I have been looking for help on this and havnt found much so if anyone can help tnks in advance.
I ended up building a ported box. I used 3/4 inch MDF with a 1.5 inch front plate. (Two .75 inch mdf glued and screwed together) then I renforced the seems with fiberglass resien. I used a 3 inch port tuned to 30 htz (a peice of pvc did the trick)
I ran the power for the amp down the driver side, from the batt through the firewall (the soft rubber gromit that the factory wire is going through, behind the break pedal) i didnt bother using any of the grommits that came with the kit. The rubber on the grommit on the firewall was so soft it wasnt needed. I tried to get a pic of it.
I ran the rca and the remote down the center consol under the carpet and back seat to the trunk. This was very easy and fast to do. The best part is ya cant tell i did an install at all. ;D
This system hits HARD. when i first hooked it up i wired it @ 1 ohm the bass was enough to make my chest numb. Only problem is its dropping my volts and causing distortion in the cabin speakers. I took a look at the factory electrical wires to the batt. They look to be 8 gauge so my next mod will be "the big 3" to the electrical, by running 0 gauge from the pos of the alt to the pos on the bat, the neg on the bat to the frame and 0 gauge from the engine block to the frame.
I have been looking for help on this and havnt found much so if anyone can help tnks in advance.
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The M32 Martyr
ok so I got the sub amp and wire kit installed.
I ended up building a ported box. I used 3/4 inch MDF with a 1.5 inch front plate. (Two .75 inch mdf glued and screwed together) then I renforced the seems with fiberglass resien. I used a 3 inch port tuned to 30 htz (a peice of pvc did the trick)
I ran the power for the amp down the driver side, from the batt through the firewall (the soft rubber gromit that the factory wire is going through, behind the break pedal) i didnt bother using any of the grommits that came with the kit. The rubber on the grommit on the firewall was so soft it wasnt needed. I tried to get a pic of it.
I ran the rca and the remote down the center consol under the carpet and back seat to the trunk. This was very easy and fast to do. The best part is ya cant tell i did an install at all. ;D
This system hits HARD. when i first hooked it up i wired it @ 1 ohm the bass was enough to make my chest numb. Only problem is its dropping my volts and causing distortion in the cabin speakers. I took a look at the factory electrical wires to the batt. They look to be 8 gauge so my next mod will be "the big 3" to the electrical, by running 0 gauge from the pos of the alt to the pos on the bat, the neg on the bat to the frame and 0 gauge from the engine block to the frame.
I have been looking for help on this and havnt found much so if anyone can help tnks in advance.
How much wattage? 0 gauge is massive overkill for anything less than 5k watts. Also, please clean up your wiring. Not trying to be a dirkhead, but the rest of your car looks way too clean to have such sloppy wiring.
My advice for wiring the amp, is mount it to a board, drill holes near all the amp's wire terminals, then run the wires through the board and hide them under the board when you mount it.
Also, don't leave the amp wire slack in your engine bay. Pull it in the cab and tuck and it up under the dash.
Hope this is helpful. BTW, I think you got the best DIY graphics on the forum thus far. Cheers.
1967stella
New member
Coming from a custom car audio POV.. Y is 1/0 g overkill... Sure it isnt needed however i always put the biggest wiring i can in mine because the bigger the wire means less resistance.
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The M32 Martyr
>> Y is 1/0 g overkill... Sure it isnt needed
>> Sure it isnt needed
>> it isnt needed
Putting 4" copper plumbing in your house will give less flow resistance, but you won't see any increased performance from your faucet. If it makes you feel better...... do it. But like you said, "it isn't needed." I've done it before, all I gained was a harder install, and a bigger hole in my wallet.
Droewa
New member
The amp is rated 1200 rms but from some reveiws ive read its about 980 watts. Im planing on putting some 6 inch subs in the rear doors and replacing the speakers in the front doors with some high end ones too, later down the road.
I was thinking if i use 0 gauge i dont have to worry about it later. However even after the complete install it will only be (im guessing) 2500 total... maybe. So what gauge should i go with?
Ah... great idea and it gives me a reason to use mah toolz!!!!
i left the extra slack cause i was still tinkering with it all. I will clean it all up and post some pics.Yea very helpfull tnks for the advise.
you wouldnt happen to have done a big three upgrade on a sonic?
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The M32 Martyr
I haven't touched the audio yet on my Sonic, but I'm going for a sleeper drag build with it, and the most I'll do is a 10" sub.
I did the "big 3" on my 84 Z28 years ago. I used 4 gauge. Also upgrading to a Optima dry cell (relocated to the trunk) made most of my light dimming issues go away.
My last car before the Sonic, had 0 gauge to the Amp distribution fuse block and then 4 gauge to the amps. I realized quickly that 0 gauge was a waste. I HIGHLY recommend JBL 1200.1 mono sub amp for driving subs. Its stable at 2ohms and the RMS is actually close to 1400watts!!! I run 2 12"s sealed on it and Oh God Damn
4 gauge will be fine for 2500watts. Search car audio forums to find a quality brand. They say a quality 4 gauge will outperform a cheap 0 gauge. The cheap ones just use copper strands to cover up a cheaper metal core.
I did the "big 3" on my 84 Z28 years ago. I used 4 gauge. Also upgrading to a Optima dry cell (relocated to the trunk) made most of my light dimming issues go away.
My last car before the Sonic, had 0 gauge to the Amp distribution fuse block and then 4 gauge to the amps. I realized quickly that 0 gauge was a waste. I HIGHLY recommend JBL 1200.1 mono sub amp for driving subs. Its stable at 2ohms and the RMS is actually close to 1400watts!!! I run 2 12"s sealed on it and Oh God Damn
4 gauge will be fine for 2500watts. Search car audio forums to find a quality brand. They say a quality 4 gauge will outperform a cheap 0 gauge. The cheap ones just use copper strands to cover up a cheaper metal core.
