Clutch Master Cylinder

[oa12]

So on my 2012 Sonic 1.4L, the clutch suddenly went out. After I replaced the clutch, pressure plate and space cylinder and put the car back together, I realized it was just the master cylinder rod that broke, so I looked closer and both the bolts that held the master cylinder in place had snapped in half, so now the bottom half is stuck in the threads. Seems like something Chevrolet should have for like a recall right? It’s only 80,000 miles on my car and this really shouldn’t be an issue, not to mention it’s a pain in the a** to take apart half the car for this fix, then deal with getting two broken bolts out. Also for the clutch fix I had to take out the sub frame, etc. for the master cylinder I’m going to have to take out the steering column and more. This car is designed to not be worked on quite literally. Anyways doesn’t this issue sound like something Chevrolet should have to fix? With the broken screws causing the issue and all.

 

[oa12]

Has anyone had a similar problem to this they've fixed themselves, any videos you may have used would be extremely helpful, we're currently following a manual that isn't super helpful.

 

[SandmanSam]

Fixing Clutch Rod

Hey all. Been working on a 2013 1.4 Chevy Sonic LTZ manual and encountered the same problem here:

Snapping sound and clutch looses push/resistance and doesn't work at all. This is because when you push the clutch pedal in, you are manually pushing the master cylinder, this pumps hydraulics down to the slave cylinder, which disengages the clutch so gears can be shifted. Obviously if this connecting rod between pedal and master cylinder is broken, it no longer pumps the MS cylinder to actuate the clutch action. ( I didn't see the broken rod until an old wise friend pointed it out). Also found my bolts holding the MS cylinder in place were also shorn and the metal left in the screw holes. Chevrolet cheaping out these days.

WHAT TO DO?: Don't worry, I have a fix that is currently working still and easy to conceptualize, hard to get the **** into proper place though. AKA ALMOST NO WORKING ROOM (beats removing steering column imo though)

First things first, (i failed a lot on this step), The Master Cylinder needs to be held in place, (this is why the rod breaks in the first place, the angle it takes when there is no structural support snaps that rod). So I took a big zip tie, and tied it around the big black bulge on the Master Cylinder, can't miss it, it has the silver metal thing inside of it (my silver metal things was pushed all the way in, I had to gouge it's side with tweezers to pull it out to extended position). Place the MCylinder where it would have been with the 2 bolts holding it in place, then zip tie the cylinder to that angled rectangular plastic piece directly close to the break pedal. (there is also a metal bracket up above towards the steering column, anything will work, we just need to keep the MClinder stationary while it gets pressed fully by the rod/clutch pedal. LOTS OF FORCE THERE). THEN AFTER PLACING ZIP TIE, I noticed it still wasn't tight enough to ensure proper clutch pedal function, so I bought a cheap hose clamp, about 3/4" width, the kind that tighten as you turn a screw, popped that hose clamp around the zip tie and tightened it until the zip tie was squeezed. This is currently the fix being used and it's working 100%.

I used a plastic BIC pen cap, (can use a lot of things) cut it so it is an empty tube that can fit onto both ends of the broken plastic connecting rod. Then I used a structural adhesisve 2 part plastic epoxy from local (NAPA) auto store. Goop the **** out of the pen cap, hold one end so it doesn't oooze out as you fumble it onto the break in the rod. you will want to have the clutch pedal and master cylinder in the full restracted (un pressed, popped towards driver) position. Get that pen cap situed between the broken ends and let it dry, you can try to confirm it's functioning before epoxy is applied just in case. If you manage to get that Master Cylinder re-mounted in place and get that connecting rod re-connected, your car should work again, AFTER YOU BLEED THE CLUTCH FLUID, it's easy, but you can **** up if you don't follow the instructions.

GOOD LUCK ALL, THIS WORKS

 

[SandmanSam]

**** thermostat/lines

Also, in interest of all Chevy drivers, the cooling on this car is absolutely ATTROCIOUS, shame on you Chevy. SHAME. First thing I fixed was a coolant leak, used JB Weld Putty, worked great. Then I finally did the hose trick and checked for HOT/HOT or HOT/COLD on the big radiator lines, (One goes in the engine, one goes out, both go to the radiator.) Found a HOT/COLD situation even after car had driven on highway 15min. Found Thermostat had melted 2 plastic hooks (the "table") that allow the thermostat spring to open coolant flow. These cars run hot for emissions, 232F and are electronically operated thermostat, I don't trust it to work well. Put a new Tstat in, this one stopped working right too, I don't know why. took it out altogether and now driving without thermostat to avoid overheating and HEAD GASKET failure, don't go there. Other than that I find these cars to have big up sides to balance out their CHEAP PRODUCTION FLAWS, F*** u Chevy and Big Oil.