135K miles on my 2015 LTZ hatch back, had to replace the engine due to a blown head gasket, probably warped, and maybe cracked head. Decided that with 135K it would make sense to replace the entire motor. Found one with 15K miles, and close enough to pick it up so no extra shipping.
I was unclear about what had to come out, and which direction [top or bottom] so i wanted to post this in case anyone else is wondering. This is MY experience with it, probably not the best or proper way, but it worked for me...
Car was on ramps for the whole procedure. Transmission was supported with a jack and left in place. I didn't even have to drain the ATF. AC compressor was unbolted and held as far forward against the fan shroud as it would go with bungee cords. No need to capture the refrigerant and all that...
I took off the intake and exhaust manifold+turbo to be sure there was room. But looking back maybe the exhaust mani+turbo could have stayed. The alternator stayed, but it could have come off easily.
With the entire front engine mount off, there was plenty of room to slide the engine forward and up and out. This is an auto trans, so the torque converter stayed in the trans. It was easy to unbolt the torque converter from the flex-plate through the starter hole.
In the end, there was PLENTY of room to get the engine out the top, and once everything lined up, the new one slid right back into place.
Mistakes made:
Be sure the torque converter is ALL the way back into the trans before you mate the engine with the trans. If so, and everything is lined up, you shouldn't have to use the bolts to "pull" them together - at least not much. They should almost fall in place...Any forcing needed and something is not lined up..
Anything plastic will break. Connectors, clips, etc. I used zip ties to hold wires down after clips broke.
The oil cooler broke off in the engine block so be careful removing that. Those are expensive...
Be prepared to install something only to realize it has to come out again just to be able to reach a bolt, or a wire connection or something else behind it.
The connectors on the knock sensor and the alternator are the same, and relatively close, so they are easy to reverse...
This helped a lot too: Chevrolet Sonic Repair Manual
Any questions let me know. And if anyone has more experience and is aware of a better way or a short cut, feel free to chime in. Hopefully this will help someone.
I was unclear about what had to come out, and which direction [top or bottom] so i wanted to post this in case anyone else is wondering. This is MY experience with it, probably not the best or proper way, but it worked for me...
Car was on ramps for the whole procedure. Transmission was supported with a jack and left in place. I didn't even have to drain the ATF. AC compressor was unbolted and held as far forward against the fan shroud as it would go with bungee cords. No need to capture the refrigerant and all that...
I took off the intake and exhaust manifold+turbo to be sure there was room. But looking back maybe the exhaust mani+turbo could have stayed. The alternator stayed, but it could have come off easily.
With the entire front engine mount off, there was plenty of room to slide the engine forward and up and out. This is an auto trans, so the torque converter stayed in the trans. It was easy to unbolt the torque converter from the flex-plate through the starter hole.
In the end, there was PLENTY of room to get the engine out the top, and once everything lined up, the new one slid right back into place.
Mistakes made:
Be sure the torque converter is ALL the way back into the trans before you mate the engine with the trans. If so, and everything is lined up, you shouldn't have to use the bolts to "pull" them together - at least not much. They should almost fall in place...Any forcing needed and something is not lined up..
Anything plastic will break. Connectors, clips, etc. I used zip ties to hold wires down after clips broke.
The oil cooler broke off in the engine block so be careful removing that. Those are expensive...
Be prepared to install something only to realize it has to come out again just to be able to reach a bolt, or a wire connection or something else behind it.
The connectors on the knock sensor and the alternator are the same, and relatively close, so they are easy to reverse...
This helped a lot too: Chevrolet Sonic Repair Manual
Any questions let me know. And if anyone has more experience and is aware of a better way or a short cut, feel free to chime in. Hopefully this will help someone.
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