polyurethane sway bar bushing
- Thread starter Ronmaf
- Start date
Tesseract_Indeed
New member
Poking a dead thread here, but for what it's worth, I did mine too. absolutely fantastic difference. Cheap. Just a bit of a pain to do. Worth it though.
mcanderson0
Member
Interesting. I see someone mentioned that they are all 7/8” between models but does that mean they all have the same stiffness? I’m curious if there are any geometric differences between different versions that would change the stiffness?
#DeadThreadDontCare
efaily
Member
Not likely, other than thickness of the anti sway bar (torsion bar), the only other factors to change it's spring rate (stiffness) would be a hollow vs solid bar, or length of the lever arms (the ends of the bar after the bends). Since the suspension and chassis didn't change, changing the length of the lever arms is highly unlikely. Hollow versus solid bar seems unlikely due to the cost of the vehicle.
Increasing the stiffness of the front suspension would indeed increase understeer. Changing the bushings isn't actually changing the stiffness of the front bar though, just making it respond faster because of less flex in the bushings.
Increasing the stiffness of the front suspension would indeed increase understeer. Changing the bushings isn't actually changing the stiffness of the front bar though, just making it respond faster because of less flex in the bushings.
SuperS13
Sonic86
I have a 2013 hatchback model pretty much identical to the 2012 model, the hatchback and sedan frontend suspension is the same. It looks like the swaybar bushing is molded to it, but it's not. Just years of it being compressed to the swaybar, there is a lot of tension on the swaybar since its bolted to the subframe. I just dropped the subframe just disconnect the steering sector shaft and lower ball joints everything else will stay put...sooo much easier to just drop the subframe. I had to my old subframe since I live in the rust belt and had a fresh prepped one ready to go in. When putting in poly bushings just apply a little bit of synthetic grease first to help installation. Then after you bolt down the straps finger tight use the grease port and grease it up good, work the swaybar back and forth, torque the straps to spec then grease again.
i was told its a dealer part because its made to it, but it doesnt make sense as the sway bar should move up and down with the suspension.
SuperS13
Sonic86
The 2012 and 2013 are identical 2014 on up chevy restructured their inventory and parts system. The main function for a swaybar is to transfer the roll weight to the opposite side...some people call it an anti-swaybar setup basically if you turning to the left and all the weight is being transferred to the right the swaybar with poly mount and uprated endlinks will stiffen that roll and transfer the majority of the roll energy to the left side instead of the right to minimize bodyroll and that applies when you turn right an aftermarket swaybar links and poly mount setup will help transfer the majority of the roll to the right side instead of the left.
Now here's the thing if you increase the swaybar in size in the front you'll introduce understeer(when you turn at high speeds but the front keeps plowing on). You can get oversteer( back end kicks out) if you increase the size of the rear swaybar best setup for a fwd car is adding a rear swaybar and uprated front swaybar end links and poly bushings.
End result is neutral oversteer and you have a cornering monster.
