Porting the Intake Manifold

[Preloader]

I'm ready to grind down the tumblers in my intake manifold, and will gladly take step by step pics along the way. I would first like to see pics of one that has already been done.

YOU NEED AN ECP ENABLED TUNE FOR YOUR ENGINE TO RUN RIGHT WITH THIS MODIFICATION

Time: approx. 1.5 hrs
Tools:
8mm socket on 6" ext.(intake bolts x 6)
7mm (i/c charge pipe to throttle body)
10mm (nut for ground on fuel rail)
Torx 30 (fuel rail bolts x 2)
Die-grinder with 3/8" cylindrical bit preferred

Remove all intake manifold associated vacuum hoses and wire harness plugs. Tuck as much away towards the firewall, and towards the front of the engine.

Bleed off the fuel rail pressure, remove the fuel rail torx bolts and ground wire. Lift the rail up to gain access to the injector wire connectors and unplug them. There is no need to remove the injectors from the rail or to remove the fuel supply to the rail. Just lay the entire fuel injection rail assy off to the passenger side.

Now you can get to the 8mm bolts easily with a 6" extension. I prefer a 1/4" drive for almost any thing under this hood.

Once you get it unbolted, you can pull it up and access the vacuum line and connector on the bottom that need to be removed. It takes some fanagling to get the manifold freed from the engine bay, but it will come out.

Here is the 1/8" thick wall you want to remove.

I stuffed the runners full of paper towel to prevent the shavings from getting in the intake and gave it a go with the die-grinder.

Here is the result.

This project was surprisingly easy. In fact, all my projects on the Sonic have been relatively easy.

I will add some reviews on the performance effects of this mod once I get some decent road testing done.
Feel free to ask if you have any questions that I may not have answered.

 

[rdss]

I think Straton has some in his 1/4 mile or build thread. At least I think I remember seeing them in one (probably the build....).

 

[Sugardaddy2885]

Talking about this?

Vermont Tuning Cruze Custom Performance - Chevrolet Cruze Forum

 

[Preloader]

Yes, that's it!!! Thanks.

I have the die-grinder to do it, I just need to know if I will need my tune adjusted immediately to compensate, or can I port the intake and drive it for a couple weeks while waiting for an adjusted tune from data-logging .

 

[ThatTmoGuy]

so you're going to take take pics of the entire process right?

i would like to see a complete write up and time EST. to see if it would be worth doing this on a weekend.

also would it be worth doing on a stock tune?

 

[rdss]

I think it causes drivability issues if you do it on a stock tune.

 

[laborsmith]

That is a more recent link and the contents more complete.

Based on Cruzetalk discussions from about a year ago and the Trifecta FB you will need a tune from go. Of course VTuners is a source but if you are already using Trifecta, they too have tuned for the ported intake manifold, but I do not believe this is free, thinking there is a $75 charge.

Laborsmith

 

[sx sonic]

1. You can run it on a stock tune, I ran mine for about 4000 mi before I got the tune, I did not notice any drivability issues nor could I tell if it affected mpg (my fuel log is about the same before and after).

2. You will notice increased top end, where the stock starts to reall fall off after 5500rpm the intake mod allows it to run strong up until the torque management kicks in ~6200rpm

3. This mod will take 3-6 hours depending on skill and how much modding is done. Took me 3 1/2 hours to remove the tumblers, blend all the seams, clean and reinstall.

A few things that will make this easiar is -use cutters for removing material, the onces I have are for steel but they worked very well, grinding stones and sand paper rolls do not work with plastic they end up melting the plastic at the contact point and essentially melt their way thru., and its messy.

-some of the vaccum lines are easiest to get off as you remove the intake plenum, one in particular is a b!itch, also the plenum is difficult to remove from the engine bay, some patience, finaggling, and trying different angles to get it out works best. It will come out without needing any fancy tricks

-spend A LOT of timing cleaning out the intake after porting, there are a lot of areas the plastic will collect and be hard to flush out. If you have a means to capture the swarf as you grind that is ideal. If not I've had good luck with blowing it out with compressed air and then flushing with LOTS of water and repeating. The gound up plastic is pervasive so spend a lot of time cleaning you don't want it in your engine.

-take your time porting and check your progress frequently, it sounds obvious but it is very easy to get in the zone and grind to far. Also set up some good lighting it helps immensely. Since I'm no expert I just ground the tumblers until they were flush with the rest of the intake runner and smoothed out any internal seams. Actually altering port size should be left to the pros.

If I get time I will try to take some pictures of the process tommorow.

Oh and I am not responsible for any damage caused by attempting this mod (cya)

-tyler

 

[sonic hotness]

Well said sx sonic

 

[Preloader]

Thanks sx sonic. I was going to pm you but you beat me to the punch and answered most of my questions.

I have my car tuned, trifecta, and as long as it won't effect drivability, I may do it 2mw. I'll take your advice about not grinding with a sand wheel, I hope my die-cutter will fit in my Dremel so I can keep the rpm slower to prevent melt.

What is involved in the throttle body mod?

And yes Tmo, I will journal the entire process with pics and how-to advice, including tools needed, time spent and maybe most importantly, all the mistakes I make so the next guy can avoid them.

 

[sx sonic]

I was actually really suprised at how unaffected the idle, thorttle repsonse, and mpg were by this mod, and out of all the mods in my sig this one gave the best percieved improvement (aside from the tune) it really helps the topend.

I really didn't do much to the throttle body just gorund down the 2 screws. That hold the throttle plate. I just took them down flush with the shaft and took the bolt heads down a little bit with a sand paper role. intially I was planning on opening the throttle body up and smoothing out any seams and bends. However once I got it off and examied it I decided to not touch the bore. It has a very starnge bore at the area around the throttle blade and is very well machined.
When you look at it you will see what I mean, I assume the weird design is to allow the throttle balde to control idle speed instead of having a seperate idle air control valve (IAC).

 

[ThatTmoGuy]

I can't wait to hear how it goes, and if it's easy enough i may give this a go as well.

 

[sx sonic]

If putting on an intake is a 3 on the difficulty scale and doing a timing belt is a 9, then I would put this at a 5 or 6. With proper tools (sockets, swivels, extenions, allens, torks, & pliers). A free day and patience its not bad.

If you can service drum brakes then this will be easy

-tyler

 

[ThatTmoGuy]

Thanks for the info on this, I'll still wait for better documentation on it before I start.

 

[sx sonic]

Oh come on. You gotta start it 4 hours before work, in the dark, with limited intructions if you want to keep your mancard

 

[Eric Smit]

Story of my life. ;P


-Eric Smit

 

[rdss]

Story of my life. ;P


-Eric Smit

And tool runs to the 24 hr Walmart at 0230.....

 

[Eric Smit]

that only way to do it. ;P


-Eric Smit

 

[sx sonic]

And 30 mins of swear time for that hidden bolt

-tyler

 

[rdss]

I think it was longer than that, try hours.... Poor Eric!