Wellhungsmurf
New member
I was actually looking at racerx manifold because of the build in bypass of the pcv. Its awfully pricy and requires modification.
Roll Up - The Sonic and Common Issues
- Thread starter skurtov
- Start date
Honestly.... Unless you want the A E S T H E T I C. Then it's not worth it. Stick with Xtreme's kit.
dannyg
Member
I think this has been said before, but it’s worth repeating: if you post about a technical issue with your Sonic, please include the year, engine (1.4 or 1.8), transmission (automatic or manual), and mileage. Plus mods if any. Plus trim level (LS, LT, etc) if the question is about the exterior/interior features (radios often differ by trim level for example). It will help people figure out a good answer for you. Thanks!
Blue Moon Sonic
New member
Man, hate to revive this, but here is an update for resolving the 1st-2nd grind issue. several months ago I had discovered something interesting and has been tested by someone on the gamma2 facebook page. DELETE THE CDV. That is right, the sonic's just like the Cruze, comes with a CDV that needs to be removed from the bleeder. If anyone is curious and wants to delete it, I can provide instructions on how to delete the CDV or change to the bleeder used on the MZ0 variant M32 found on the Cruze.
The OP stated:
"-Intake Piping: The 1.8l suffers from dry rot cracks in the intake piping as the rubber becomes brittle over time. This can cause the vehicle to run rich and wreck your catalytic converter. Check your piping with a usual oil change. GM offers extended coverage options for this part, but aftermarket metal intakes are available eliminating this issue."
Is he referring to a CAI like a K&N, or something else?
"-Intake Piping: The 1.8l suffers from dry rot cracks in the intake piping as the rubber becomes brittle over time. This can cause the vehicle to run rich and wreck your catalytic converter. Check your piping with a usual oil change. GM offers extended coverage options for this part, but aftermarket metal intakes are available eliminating this issue."
Is he referring to a CAI like a K&N, or something else?
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TurtleOverlord
Active member
The stock setup.
The rubber hose that fails connects the Stock air box to the throttle body.
Some times the crack is small or on the underside, only visible if removed.
Edit: this problem was supposedly solved in the 2015 model year with a new part number, looks like you have a 2016
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Wow...long dead thread. 2012 Sonic 1.8 manual owner here. 141,000 km and I've replaced the intake hose...drivability's a b!tch when it starts sucking in more air than it should. That's a long time ago, the replacement has held up well.
I wonder if the front sway bar end rods are also a problem for anyone else? Front end was banging and knocking and one day heard a pop...pulled the right front wheel, and huh, it's a plastic connector, and it broke. So I pulled it off and have been driving the car for oh, 6 yrs like that now? Maybe longer. Doesn't seem to affect handling...not like it's a racecar...and the driver side is still hooked up lol.
It's not what I'd call great on gas. My FIL's Buick Encore does better. But it's better than the truck, or my other car.
Guess I should read the manual - might be time for a timing belt. Eek.
Anyway, I came looking for info on the ABS light and the wiggly little I'm assuming stability control light being on. Is this an easy fix? Simple module replacement, or am I looking at bigger issues? The car works as normal...but I probably should at least do that. And maybe the belt. Or read the manual and find out what else it might be time for.
Have had this car since new - got it for $10,500 - was a $15,000 and change new car (Cdn) and damn straight, bare bones no AC car (I installed CC finally last year - now I'm even more in love with it) but I love this little thing. It's fun, peppy, "OK" on gas if you don't drive like an ass...and it's got a manual so yeah, "race car" even if it's not. It's a hoot when I take it to the city. Scootin' and hootin' while I'm givin' it a bootin''. Or something like that.
Youngest son just did a 5,400 km trip to Alberta Rockies with 4 other Uni students and ALL their shi# stuffed in the car and it worked great - other than the ABS and StabC lights coming on. Just drive it! It's fine!
Now it's time to fix it.
I wonder if the front sway bar end rods are also a problem for anyone else? Front end was banging and knocking and one day heard a pop...pulled the right front wheel, and huh, it's a plastic connector, and it broke. So I pulled it off and have been driving the car for oh, 6 yrs like that now? Maybe longer. Doesn't seem to affect handling...not like it's a racecar...and the driver side is still hooked up lol.
It's not what I'd call great on gas. My FIL's Buick Encore does better. But it's better than the truck, or my other car.
Guess I should read the manual - might be time for a timing belt. Eek.
Anyway, I came looking for info on the ABS light and the wiggly little I'm assuming stability control light being on. Is this an easy fix? Simple module replacement, or am I looking at bigger issues? The car works as normal...but I probably should at least do that. And maybe the belt. Or read the manual and find out what else it might be time for.
Have had this car since new - got it for $10,500 - was a $15,000 and change new car (Cdn) and damn straight, bare bones no AC car (I installed CC finally last year - now I'm even more in love with it) but I love this little thing. It's fun, peppy, "OK" on gas if you don't drive like an ass...and it's got a manual so yeah, "race car" even if it's not. It's a hoot when I take it to the city. Scootin' and hootin' while I'm givin' it a bootin''. Or something like that.
Youngest son just did a 5,400 km trip to Alberta Rockies with 4 other Uni students and ALL their shi# stuffed in the car and it worked great - other than the ABS and StabC lights coming on. Just drive it! It's fine!
Now it's time to fix it.
wildgeese2076
New member
2014 sonic 1.8 MT 100K Miles
Purchased at 60K Repairs and problems so far:
Clearcoat failure: Re-paint estimate 3K
Timing belt replaced at 80K because water pump was leaking. Also had leak at themostat housing and oli cooler o-ring
Replaced valve cover gasket. Inner gasket failed and oil was leaking into spark plugs. Replaced coil pack and plugs
Oil cooler failed, creating large oil leak
replaced coolant overflow tank. Crack on bottom
repaced failed cheap plastic sway bar end links
replaced control arm assemply
replaced door lock switch. Broken again
replaced master switch assembly
replaced both visor assemblies. The pins on the mirror covers break if you look at them the wrong way.
catalytic converter replaced under warranty
flex pipe exhust leak repaired
replaced gear shift assembly. Knob disintegrated and you can't replace with aftermarket shift knob. Stupid
replaced front pads and rotors
Just repaired issue with blend door being stuck on vent.
Had to pull fuse to reset reminder code to change timing belt that came on at 100K. Why not allow this to be done in the menu fuctions? Agian, stupid
coolant, brake fluid, and gear oil changed.
Ordered every hose in cooling system and OEM radiator ($300.00 parts) Will replace shortly. If I don't have to check for coolant leaks every time I start the car, the money and effort spent will be woth it.
Purchased at 60K Repairs and problems so far:
Clearcoat failure: Re-paint estimate 3K
Timing belt replaced at 80K because water pump was leaking. Also had leak at themostat housing and oli cooler o-ring
Replaced valve cover gasket. Inner gasket failed and oil was leaking into spark plugs. Replaced coil pack and plugs
Oil cooler failed, creating large oil leak
replaced coolant overflow tank. Crack on bottom
repaced failed cheap plastic sway bar end links
replaced control arm assemply
replaced door lock switch. Broken again
replaced master switch assembly
replaced both visor assemblies. The pins on the mirror covers break if you look at them the wrong way.
catalytic converter replaced under warranty
flex pipe exhust leak repaired
replaced gear shift assembly. Knob disintegrated and you can't replace with aftermarket shift knob. Stupid
replaced front pads and rotors
Just repaired issue with blend door being stuck on vent.
Had to pull fuse to reset reminder code to change timing belt that came on at 100K. Why not allow this to be done in the menu fuctions? Agian, stupid
coolant, brake fluid, and gear oil changed.
Ordered every hose in cooling system and OEM radiator ($300.00 parts) Will replace shortly. If I don't have to check for coolant leaks every time I start the car, the money and effort spent will be woth it.
ozonetrooper
Member
Ordered every hose in cooling system and OEM radiator ($300.00 parts)
I just did this to my 2016 LTZ. The front end plastic body part must be removed, watch a youtube video or you will break the clips if not removed properly.
Also be prepared to removed everything around it. I did not take the a/c lines loose and my radiator came out from the bottom of the space.
I just did this to my 2016 LTZ. The front end plastic body part must be removed, watch a youtube video or you will break the clips if not removed properly.
Also be prepared to removed everything around it. I did not take the a/c lines loose and my radiator came out from the bottom of the space.
