1.4L Teardown/Modification

[Preloader]

I'll need to flow 30lbs/min at a pressure ratio of 2.15 and 25-30psi boost to generate 300hp on a 1364cc. That's what I'm using when I'm looking a turbo charts.

I need 4,800 and 7,000 to fall inside the island of efficiency. The GT2860R seems to fit my needs quite well.

But I think I may play it safe and go with the GT25. Underkill is better than overkill in the game of development. And I could always size up to the 2860 later.

 

[firstorbit84]

This is the most epic thread I've seen on here in a while. Very excited to see the results.

A couple thoughts:
What about a twin-scroll turbo or a variable vane turbo or even a twin turbo setup to get power across the rpm range? Wasn't one company looking for a donor car to fabricate a twin scroll setup?

I think that more torque under the curve will be the most beneficial in actually getting down the track the quickest.

Also, what about changing the compression ratio? 9.5 seems a bit high for a boosted application. Lowering it would allow you to run more boost safely. Conversely, raising it would require less boost for higher power. Or am I way off base on these assumptions?

Finally, don't forget about upgrading the head bolts/studs.

 

[cndctrdj]

On my other car I run higher boost and higher cr.... Makes a lot more power

 

[sx sonic]

A higher static CR is best for off boost power, ie better low-end.

The trade off is less max boost on an otherwise identical engine. Increasing boost seams to increase power more progressively than bumping up CR, so the result is more peak HP/TQ. Atleast that's how I've interpreted what I've read.

 

[13TurboLTZ]

A couple thoughts:
What about a twin-scroll turbo or a variable vane turbo or even a twin turbo setup to get power across the rpm range? Wasn't one company looking for a donor car to fabricate a twin scroll setup?

Keep in mind you would need a manifold to mate it too (not the hardest thing to do but still worth mentioning) as the turbo and exhaust manifold are one piece.

Wow, that's totally not at all how I imagined an ECM controlled thermostat working. When I learned it was controlled by the ECM I imagined a stepper motor or something opening a valve to allow more or less coolant to flow with no means for it to open without the computer doing it's thing. I'll be darned.

Thats what I thought it was too! i actually looked up description and operation of the system on GM service info when I was reading through this thread.

Im not suprised you cant get over 200 horse outta these. The turbo is so FREAKIN TINY!!!! As well is the base engine!

 

[Preloader]

Twin scroll would be great, but I'm taking the easy route for my initial turbo upgrade. And my main goal is all out peak horsepower. Secondary goal is astonishing qtr mile ETs.

I don't mind so much if I lose a lot of low-mid range. As long as my 1.4 can get me to work and back even when it's not spooling.

 

[ChrisJ]

I cant get over those temps.. that's hot as ****kk, new cars are more confusing.. could we run no thermostat like I did on my old car? computer would probably flip ****.. lol and pre.. is it hard to remove timing chain cover?? did u hit any snags? I wanted to try it once but was too intimidated :sadbanana:

Its for fuel economy and emissions. In reality its not a problem at all for a daily driver. I mean 248* seems high but with a coolant cap rated at 20PSI, coolant wouldn't even start to boil till past 260, maybe even 270*F. Hell my 87 Camaros factory coolant fan switch (the old school on in the pass side head) didn't turn the fans on till 235*F.

To be honest though, I don't think these cars get hot enough to fully open the thermostat very often. Maybe sitting waiting for a train to pass on a hot summer day. I mean the owners manual does say not to idle the engine for longer than 10 minutes (that's also how long the car will stay remote started without the key in the ignition).

my 70' impala runs 160-170 all day long at the strip it got up to upper 180s but that's cuz I was all like mashhhhhhhhhhhhhh sit n idle... masshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh sit n idle lol so too much electronics to run no thermostat? can we re calibrate when it opens? or are these temps really optimal? I don't wanna hurt it.. and I still wanna know about the timing cover

Lots of quotes here.

This isn't just for fuel economy. I don't know the year but at one point in either the 1970s or early 1980s it was discovered that running cooler caused fuel condensation on the cylinder walls. This meant both the fuel mixture had to be richer to compensate for it AND it also caused oil to constantly be washed off of the cylinders as well as it contaminated the oil more.

This is why most companies switched to 195F stats. It is also why temps have continued to creep up. Hotter running engines burn cleaner and leaner (which btw also improves MPG and emissions).

Roxxx, your 70 Imapala will run at 170F fine , but will that engine last 200-300K miles like MANY of the engines magically started doing in the 1980s?

The magical difference was higher temps, better oil and leaner fuel mixtures.

As far as I am aware the only time you want to drop the temperatures is when you are trying to run higher boost or compression without knocking.


Sorry for the huge post Preloader.

 

[Preloader]

I don't mind, at least you concluded that topic well.

I got a bunch more pics to load soon.

Unfortunately it doesn't look like the intake port openings can be opened much. The metal that you see in the I.D. Of the gasket is where the plastic intake mates. So even if the metal is opened up, the plastic intake runner will still be restricting the size of the port. That just leaves the runner entering the valve seats to be worked. Hopefully there is some gains to be had there or possibly even slightly bigger valves.

 

[Preloader]

I added some pics to Post #3.

I hope to get the crank and pistons out by the end of the week. If I confirm that I'll need to boost over 25psi to get 300hp, I'll be looking into upgraded rods and pistons.

 

[ecohauler]

There's room if you build a custom intake. Also, those vortex generators look more restrictive than I expected.

I LOVE THIS THREAD! SO MUCH LEARNING!

 

[Preloader]

Excellent point about a custom intake manifold. Also to clarify, the pic is of the stock manifold that came with this engine. Rest assured that those vortex baffles no longer exist on the intake in my car.

 

[jayrq2o1]

I should mention it even though our cranks are already damn small, and probably very light, but how about getting it knife edged?

 

[Preloader]

Getting what knife edged?

 

[rdss]

The leading edges of the crank counter weight lobes.

 

[Preloader]

I'll add that to my growing list of things to look into.opcorn:

 

[Preloader]

Is there any valid reason to keep track of the rockers, lifters, springs and valves?

Does it really matter if I keep them in order so they all go back in their original location or can I just throw them all in a bag?

 

[$ub$onic]

When I redo top ends I always put things back where they where. I lightly engrave the cylinder number on the face of the value. But that's on 2 value 6 cylinders. It could just be me being anal about things though.

 

[Preloader]

I do have have an engraver. But that's only good for the rockers. I wouldn't feel comfortable scoring the lifters, or valves. To bad eggs don't come in 16 count cartons.:blankface:

Springs don't matter, cuz I'm going with new ones.

 

[$ub$onic]

Use a marker or chalk to number the values. I engrave mine because it's in a generator. It will be apart again. Another thing I do is put a strong magnet in the oil pan(metal oil pans)

 

[rdss]

If you're having the machined and its going back fresh it doesn't matter. If you're taking stuff like that apart, fixing something and putting it back together it is imperative that you put everything back into its original place. This is due to parts wearing into place.