Stereo Install (keeping headunit, but replacing speakers and adding amp)

[kevinm]

When I was looking for tips o n my install, I found it a little hard because no one was going down the same path I wanted. So I decided after I did do it, I would upload pictures and give somewhat of a guide for anyone who is looking to do the same thing I did.

A little background on me: First audio install, but I build custom home theater/ hifi speakers. So, I feel pretty confident working with audio stuff.

My install thus far was a complete replacement of the existing speakers/wiring and adding an amp. I wanted to keep the stock headunit because I wanted everything to look stock. I didn't want to see it, I just wanted to hear it. Turned out well. Can't see anything and it sounds great.



Here are some of the key players:

2012 Chevrolet Sonic LTZ Hatch

New front speakers:Inifinity Reference component system
Amazon.com: Infinity Reference 6030cs 6.5-Inch 270-Watt Two-Way Component System: Car Electronics

New back: Infinity reference 2 way
Amazon.com: Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers (Pair): Car Electronics

Amp: Fosgate PBR300x4 Punch
Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 Punch BRT 300-Watt Ultra Compact 4-Channel Amplifier: Car Electronics

To mount the speakers: Scosche speaker adapter
Amazon.com: Scosche SAGMHR634B 2006-Up Chevrolet HHR/Impala Speaker Adapter for 6+-Inch or 6+-Inch: Car Electronics

100 ft generic cable

Rockford amp kit for power
Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 Punch BRT 300-Watt Ultra Compact 4-Channel Amplifier: Car Electronics

I replaced all speakers in their original locations. So my tweeters went where the factory ones were.

I placed the amp under the console in front of the shifter (directly under the head unit area). This keeps it cool and easy to manage as I only have to pop off one plastic piece to get access.

I put my two crossovers in the dash. My driver's side one is on the little plate you pull off to get access to the fuse box. My other one is behind the glove compartment.

I ran my wires through the door harnesses. There was no need to do any drilling as there is a space just big enough for my 16gauge wire to fit through. I tried to get the best pictures I could.

I grounded my amp on another big grounded screw for some of the other electronics. It's on the driver's side under the carpet. (Yay! no drilling).

I mounted my tweeters by just placing some hot glue beads between the different mounting hardware. To get the a-pillars off, just pull very hard at the middle (window side) and at the very top. Be careful to pull the black plastic clip off when the cover comes off. Shouldn't need to worry about the airbag.

I connect the amp to the headunit with a lot of splicing. The fosgate automatically turns on when it senses a signal, so that's one reason I picked it as I didn't need a line out converter or a remote trigger. I just spliced into it's high speaker level input and was good to go.

Hit me up if you have any questions!

Here are some pics of the different steps

 

[kevinm]

More pictures

more pictures

 

[kevinm]

more pictures

 

[sonic007]

Nicely done

 

[kevinm]

thanks, sonic. I used a lot of the stuff that you posted to do my build, so thank you.

 

[sonic007]

Not a problem. Glad it was put to good use.

 

[Hypurr]

Good install, I bet it's much better now. I used the stock HU, too, to keep the stock look.

 

[kevinm]

Yeah. sounds so much better. Now I am on the hunt for a small sub to put under the false floor. A little challenging because I want a sealed enclosure - but only have a 5.5in height to work with

 

[mrrw60]

Check out my build. The subs are 8 inch MB Quart 8 inch shallow mounts. Enough bass to bounce quarters off your dash if that is what your into. The are mounted in a 1.3 cubic foot enclosure that sits in the false floor.

 

[Hypurr]

Here's the sub I used, it is a small sealed enclosure and fits perfectly under the back in the storage area. I did find the sound a little muddy under there and am experimenting with different placements. Right now it's on top facing the back. I've only had it in for a couple of weeks and it's still breaking in and starting to sound much better. After it's completely broken in I'll try it back in the storage area and see if it made a difference.

TS-SWX251 - 10" Preloaded Shallow-Mount Component Subwoofer Enclosure | Pioneer Electronics USA

Here's my install thread with some pictures of it installed.

http://www.sonicownersforum.com/forum/do-yourself-articles/8606-my-sound-system-install.html

 

[kevinm]

mrrw, that's WAY too much bass for me. I'm looking harmony - hehehe. But damn, that is a clean install. Well done.

Hypurr, I was looking at that or maybe building a custom enclosure using one of these:

Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-SW841D 8 In. Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 500 Watts Max. Power: Car Electronics

 

[Hypurr]

That would probably sound great. I like the Pioneer enclosure and their subs, it was perfect size for me and very solidly built. They also have a higher end 10" shallow mount that takes the same volume box if I want to upgrade later. I was really surprised at the sound that comes from it for it's size. I've had it installed for about 3 weeks now and it seems to sound better everyday as it gets broken in. It was a little boomy at first but now that's it's loosening up it's becoming more musical and nuanced. Whatever way you go, post a pic when you get it in.

 

[mrrw60]

mrrw, that's WAY too much bass for me. I'm looking harmony - hehehe. But damn, that is a clean install. Well done.

Hypurr, I was looking at that or maybe building a custom enclosure using one of these:

Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-SW841D 8 In. Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 500 Watts Max. Power: Car Electronics

I listen to Rock, Jazz, some country, and 80's alt rock, and club music. The subs are a pair of 8 inch shallow mounts and provide fast punchy bass. The kind of clean bass that you can hear the snap from a kick drum. They will play low enough and move air to vibrate crap on your car to impress the kids. Best part is you can keep your windows rolled up and not get bass cancelation and standing waves like you do with larger drivers.

 

[SonicRS1976]

Check out my build. The subs are 8 inch MB Quart 8 inch shallow mounts. Enough bass to bounce quarters off your dash if that is what your into. The are mounted in a 1.3 cubic foot enclosure that sits in the false floor.

Is there a cover for the subs and amplifier? I love this setup but would still like to use the massive amount of trunk space without damaging anything

 

[mrrw60]

Is there a cover for the subs and amplifier? I love this setup but would still like to use the massive amount of trunk space without damaging anything

I am in the process of making the covers for the subs, and the amp. I am waiting on metal mesh material to get here and mold them to the MDF frames then cover them with matching grill cloth.

The enclosure only took up the truck space that is under the cargo panel. The replacement panel fits factory like the original. No loss of truck space and no mods to the car. The only downside is you will have to disconnect the wires from the amp and pull the enclosure out to get to the spare.

 

[Matte]

hey kevinm did you need those speaker adapters for all 4 of your door speakers? is that the only way to get the speakers to fit? i was looking at getting that exact setup of speakers you posted i love infinity speakers thanks for your help

 

[sonic007]

You should only need them for the fronts to keep enough space for the windows.

 

[Matte]

ok thanks Sonic007

 

[litolion]

does the stock radio have RCA outlet? or only the my link have the RCA for the amp? thanks for the info.

 

[sonic007]

No. Must use a line output converter or "loc"