Bypassing the the bypass valve solenoid.

[Ring0]

I figured I must've done something wrong but everything is hooked up the way it is supposed to. Driven the car about 1200 miles since I did the mod and like I said it runs just fine - the code clears itself every 50 miles or so but reappears after a while. I'll just live with it the mod is too good to undo opcorn:

 

[Steelmesh]

So I browsed the entire thread and wondered what if you could have both systems in place? Using a check valve at point A or B or C, or combination of the 3. would it still work to limit the unwanted effect of the valve, while keeping a positive effect, if any?

Also those that have had trouble or issues with this mod. What is your altitude?

NOTE: GM list the vale as a "VALVE. Turbocharger/Supercharger Cooling"???
.
.
.

I just went through all 53 pages trying to find the sketch/diagrams here. Detailed descriptions and real pictures are essential, but a sketch knocks it out of the park for me.

So in a nutshell, would it be valid to say your sketch I cropped below represents a functional BPV modification?

 

[JesusTheAgnostic]

Hey guys, let's say I can't remove this hose from the manifold could I just cut it off and then cap the rest? I imagine it would be pretty easy to get in with a box cutter, specially if I remove the manifold to port at the same time. Anybody know if this is a bad idea?

 

[JesusTheAgnostic]

Never mind I just pushed it off with a screw driver

 

[2014 Blue RS]

Those little pic tools from harbor freight work great too. Slip it in just enough to free the hoses grip

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Steelmesh]

So in a nutshell, would it be valid to say your sketch I cropped below represents a functional BPV modification?

TTT on the above question directed at the world :banana:

 

[diazmjd]

Thank you for this thread. I read some things about BOV flutter and that it's normal after doing this mod. I just want to get clarification that this flutter is OK, and not cause for alarm. Really, just looking to confirm and make myself feel better. =)

Forge BOV installed was crisp and wonderful. Bypassed the solenoid and I get a very low growl/flutter for just a split second before the whoosh sound comes. I'm sure I'll get used to it but my ear keeps picking it up. But more importantly, what is happening exactly that's different after doing this mod?

Thanks!

 

[2014 Blue RS]

Mine does the same. Very suttle but never an issue in the 2 years since doing this mod.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Maddmatts]

But more importantly, what is happening exactly that's different after doing this mod?

As the turbo builds boost, the engine computer uses the solenoid valve under the intake to deliver a mix of boost and vacuum signal to the bypass valve. This opens the valve slightly to create a controlled bypass of boost pressure.

Why GM decided to do this is anyone's guess. I think the leading speculation was to make it deliver power more like a naturally aspirated engine.

Doing this mod makes the 1.4T behave more like turbo'd engines of old where power delivery is more dynamic and peaky.

 

[2014 Blue RS]

Smooth drivabilty worth no complaints from the majority

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Boy-Dirt-Car]

As the turbo builds boost, the engine computer uses the solenoid valve under the intake to deliver a mix of boost and vacuum signal to the bypass valve. This opens the valve slightly to create a controlled bypass of boost pressure.

Why GM decided to do this is anyone's guess. I think the leading speculation was to make it deliver power more like a naturally aspirated engine.

Doing this mod makes the 1.4T behave more like turbo'd engines of old where power delivery is more dynamic and peaky.

Best explanation I've read yet! Thanx!

 

[JesusTheAgnostic]

Thank you for this thread. I read some things about BOV flutter and that it's normal after doing this mod. I just want to get clarification that this flutter is OK, and not cause for alarm. Really, just looking to confirm and make myself feel better. =)

Forge BOV installed was crisp and wonderful. Bypassed the solenoid and I get a very low growl/flutter for just a split second before the whoosh sound comes. I'm sure I'll get used to it but my ear keeps picking it up. But more importantly, what is happening exactly that's different after doing this mod?

Thanks!

I had just started to notice the BPV fluttering before going pshh. It was actually starting to scare me. Thanks for posting this now I don't have to replace it. I still will though because I have a Forge BOV sitting in my car.

 

[Mr.turner85]

Hey I can't remember if I asked this but it doesn't look like I did. How does this do for tuned cars?? In other words would this be pointless or detrimental to do if the car is tuned. Do tunes from bnr have any effect on the bpv? Should I still do this if I have a tune?
Thanks
Beau


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JesusTheAgnostic]

*Insert Shia LaBeouf here*

Just do it! I'm assuming you have an intake. You know that whoosh sound the car makes. Yeah but then if you listen to it how you can hear it going psssss quietly. It'll stop that. The mod didn't make any more power as far as I could tell but by the time I did it and ported the manifold I was already pushing the limits of the car with intake and exhaust. Anyway it's not a power mod it's a power delivery mod. You shouldn't have any negative results unless you do it wrong.

 

[skurtov]

Hey, just tried this mod on my Sonic. Impressed.

I think its worth to note that, instead of using caps to block off that green marked line. I used a small bolt (that provides natural barbs and won't dry rot), and you can tighten it with either a hose clamp or a zip tie.

Also, if you're feeling really adventurous. The whole vacuum line coming off of the BPV can be replaced and fed into the manifold. In my case my leftover line wasn't long enough so I just cut the factory one part way and spliced in mine all the way to the manifold. It's cheap to order some bulk silicone vacuum line off of ebay in the color of your choice and make it a nice cosmetic look.

 

[diazmjd]

Hey, just tried this mod on my Sonic. Impressed.

I think its worth to note that, instead of using caps to block off that green marked line. I used a small bolt (that provides natural barbs and won't dry rot), and you can tighten it with either a hose clamp or a zip tie.

Also, if you're feeling really adventurous. The whole vacuum line coming off of the BPV can be replaced and fed into the manifold. In my case my leftover line wasn't long enough so I just cut the factory one part way and spliced in mine all the way to the manifold. It's cheap to order some bulk silicone vacuum line off of ebay in the color of your choice and make it a nice cosmetic look.

Samesies

 

[Mr.turner85]

Finally got around to this yesterday. Didn't really notice a difference in power delivery but I did this at the same time as doing a gauge install so I removed both lines from the bypass valve and used a T to connect them and my line for my boost gauge. Then I just put vacuum caps over the nipples on the valve and i was done didn't need any extra vac line.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Llia]

I just went through all 53 pages trying to find the sketch/diagrams here. Detailed descriptions and real pictures are essential, but a sketch knocks it out of the park for me.

So in a nutshell, would it be valid to say your sketch I cropped below represents a functional BPV modification?

Yes, Two caps and a sturdy vacuum line from the manifold to the Valve

I was frustrated so I took to making my own based on old vacuum diagrams I had from my carbureted car. Let me tell you some of the last carbed cars from Japan still managed to get by with emissions using a very complex carb, solenoids, air suction valves, and altitude sensitive diaphragms.

 

[NathanSGee]

Yes, Two caps and a sturdy vacuum line from the manifold to the Valve

I was frustrated so I took to making my own based on old vacuum diagrams I had from my carbureted car. Let me tell you some of the last carbed cars from Japan still managed to get by with emissions using a very complex carb, solenoids, air suction valves, and altitude sensitive diaphragms.

http://imgur.com/JtIsRNW.jpg

The picture is correct, the description is not.
In the simplest terms:
#1 gets removed from #5. #5 is then capped off.
#6 is removed from port on the intake manifold and then a 4mm bolt it inserted into the hose to block it off.
#3, #4,are not messed with.
#1 gets connected to the port on the bottom of the intake manifold that #6 from the solenoid was attached to. You can do this by adding a small piece of hose, and a splice as described in the write up, run a new hose entirely from the intake manifold port directly to the BPV, or pull#6 off of the solenoid instead of the intake manifold port, add a splice to the end, connect #1 to the splice you installed, and then cap the solenoid.

DO NOT CAP OR BLOCK OFF THE PORT ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD!!

If you block that off, the BPV will no longer function and cause MULTIPLE issues, and potentially DAMAGE to turbocharger.

Combo of these two will be helping me do this tomorrow (Layoffs make for plenty of time)

 

[carsNskis]

Here's a few after pics to help those wanting to do the bypass... thanks photobucket #sarcasm

the diagram helps visually to understand what you're doing.

It's tough to see what you're messing with but here's a few pics of the after...

Remove the wiring loom from the two clips to give you slack, move it out of the way for easier access. You can see the cap I placed on the outlet in this photo.

Disconnect the line that runs to the output and cap the solenoid (this one is tough to pry off without breaking the nipple on the solenoid).

Disconnect the input line and cap the solenoid (already shown capped)

Splice the input and output lines together to complete the bypass.

[emoji593][emoji809][emoji472]