'17 Krypton Green Build

[YouBeTailsIllBeSonic]

Took a couple peices off today. Looks like it won't actually be too bad once I start.

Had to ditch the pod mount that I made....lol the angles on this panel are retarded. I'll be filing till kingdom come trying to make it fit. Went back to the ones that came with with the pods. Some finishing yet but they are pretty much done.

Kinda destroyed my back and neck mountain biking last week so I dunno if exhaust is gonna get done before the trip unfortunately....i can barely move right now.

Will have new tires installed this week. Not 100% on what I'm going to end up with yet, but going with 215/45r17. Might go with the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s.
Spacers and Eibachs hopefully to follow. The upsize as well as spacers should bring me out almost exactly flush. Which is awesome because I don't plan on ever driving this thing through another winter again.

Couple pics to update.

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[YouBeTailsIllBeSonic]

Anyone have any idea which fuses under the dash are okay to tap into?
I have expandable fuses but I'm not sure where to start on this. Realistically I only need to run the single power wire (for the water sensor), and the boost hose through the firewall. The rest can just be joined and run via the fuse box under the dash.

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[Tormach]

Anyone have any idea which fuses under the dash are okay to tap into?
I have expandable fuses but I'm not sure where to start on this. Realistically I only need to run the single power wire (for the water sensor), and the boost hose through the firewall. The rest can just be joined and run via the fuse box under the dash.

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If I have some time, I will take a pic of my fuse panel to show where I taped in. Mines a 2012 so not sure if they tweaked the panel layout a bit.

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[Smarjason]

Anyone have any idea which fuses under the dash are okay to tap into?
I have expandable fuses but I'm not sure where to start on this. Realistically I only need to run the single power wire (for the water sensor), and the boost hose through the firewall. The rest can just be joined and run via the fuse box under the dash.

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You can tap into the sunroof fuse in the fusebox under the dash. It only provides 12v when the car is on so it’s perfect. I currently have a radar detector and leds tapped into the fuse.
It’s the second fuse down from the top right of the fuse box. I used a fuse tap from Walmart that plugs right in. I grounded all the electronics to the dash support beam. Hope this helps.

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[YouBeTailsIllBeSonic]

I have three wires to put in.
Yellow: constant source
Red: ignition source
And orange : headlight source (For dimming function I'm assuming)


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[Smarjason]

You can splice all three into one main that will tap into the fuse box. Since you only want it on when the car is running, the fuse will act as your constant and ignition. The lights only need a 12v source which would also come from the fuse


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[YouBeTailsIllBeSonic]

Would that not eliminate the dimming function whem the headlights come on at night?

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[Smarjason]

Would that not eliminate the dimming function whem the headlights come on at night?

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Oh I see what you mean. I think you have to run the orange cable to the 12v cable on the headlight harness so it knows to dim when the headlights are on


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[YouBeTailsIllBeSonic]

Kinda feeling committed....

The line for "Bypass the bypass" mod should be fine to tap into right?

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[YouBeTailsIllBeSonic]

So far.....

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[Nataphen]

Woo! That looks like a lot of work. It’s going to be nice.


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[SnotRocketRS]

What are the two cars in the garage? I'm curious

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[YouBeTailsIllBeSonic]

Wow what a horrible job to get the dash back in properly....would probably help if I disassembled completely first....Also my back is excruciating right now which isn't helping with the patience.

Gauges wired in but I don't have time to do the Under the hood stuff tonight. Also still not 100% sure where to tap into boost yet...

I know the mounting is pretty crap right now but they aren't even locked into the pods yet. I just put them on roughly so I could pull wires.

I think one is a torn apart laser and the other is my buddies Dodge stealth.

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[YouBeTailsIllBeSonic]

Okay I finally got them mounted and plumbed in and finished. Anyone know what the typical vacuum is at idle? I'm around 14 to 16 inches parked idling, and as much as 22 inches coasting in gear.

Reason I ask is that I'm only getting a max of 13-14lbs at WOT....which is kinda gay. Wanna make sure my gauge is working properly.

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[Nataphen]

That’s about right. The stock tune won’t get much over 10psi ever. 13-14 is pretty high actually.


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[JTee2017]

Open the valves up. . better cams and maybe machine the heads. . . Air Flow is more important than boost pressure for HP. That heads and valves are the bottle neck in our engines.

 

[Nataphen]

Open the valves up. . better cams and maybe machine the heads. . . Air Flow is more important than boost pressure for HP. That heads and valves are the bottle neck in our engines.

I think he’s just asking about the stock engine and stock tune. Mine with every stock tune compatible bolt on possible would still only hit ~10psi on the stock tune.


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[JTee2017]

Still . . . Open things up . . better cam. . more low end torque with better air flow. A matter of engine physics.

 

[Nataphen]

Still . . . Open things up . . better cam. . more low end torque with better air flow. A matter of engine physics.

I agree, you just have to get a custom tune for it, which will also bring the boost up to 20psi+ by itself. I’m sure that’s something he may consider when he’s ready to start tuning the car.


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[YouBeTailsIllBeSonic]

So has it been settled yet about porting intake on stock tune?

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