Stereo Install (keeping headunit, but replacing speakers and adding amp)

[Gobinator98]

I know this is an old thread but where did you guys mount your amp? I have a 1000W Dual brand 4-channel amp that I installed in the trunk but would like to relocate it so I can get to the spare easier if i need to. Also, how do I go about running the speaker wire thru the connector at the doors? I currently have the front ones going under the weather strip since I couldn't find a detailed guide on how to do it. And the back ones go thru a plastic grommet in the B-columns and into the doors. Thanks in advance to anyone that could help me out.

 

[orangeltz13]

amp mount

There are not many places to mount an amp in the Sonic, however, you could try mounting it on the back of the rear seat (that is where I mounted my Kicker Hideaway powered subwoofers). One other possibility would be the cover over the spare tire. If you choose this space you would need to keep the wiring long enough to support accessing the spare tire. Hope that helps.

 

[Turbonic]

I've read over this thread at least 3 times. I'm going to do my sound system in the same manner with keeping the OEM head unit, but I've never done this before. I'll be using the same exact amp as the OP. For the PAC AA-GM44, would this eliminate the need for getting any amp install kit? I'll still need to get power directly to the amp from the battery and ground the amp as well, correct? How many feet of speaker wire should I really get? If there's any places where I can reuse the factory wiring, I'll do that. Seems to me all I need to do is get the output wires from the amp and tee into the speaker wires going into the rear doors, then cut the plug ends off and connect my own that would work with aftermarket speakers. I've read that running entirely new wires to the front aftermarket speakers/crossovers is necessary

 

[ScarabEpic22]

I used that PAC adapter, amp in the back, installed PAC adapter and ran RCAs straight back to the amp. Ran speaker wire in back from amp to the behind the HU to tie into the speaker wiring. I'm not using a LOC or anything like a JL Cleansweep/AudioControl LC7i for cleaning up the signal and the quality is pretty darn good. Don't split up front/rear signals, tap them all behind the HU.

 

[TurtleOverlord]

Isnt it common practice to have speaker cables as short as possible?

You run right by the B Pillars on the way up to the HU so why not end the rear wires there?

For my front door speakers I cut the wires in the kick panel and picked which ever side went into the door

The kit I used came with 40ft speaker wire, 20ft 4ga power wire

 

[Turbonic]

I used that PAC adapter, amp in the back, installed PAC adapter and ran RCAs straight back to the amp. Ran speaker wire in back from amp to the behind the HU to tie into the speaker wiring. I'm not using a LOC or anything like a JL Cleansweep/AudioControl LC7i for cleaning up the signal and the quality is pretty darn good. Don't split up front/rear signals, tap them all behind the HU.

you could have an amp that requires speaker-level input, won't need a LOC in that case. the amp that the OP and myself will be using has this feature. when i think of tapping into wires, im thinking cutting and splicing the speaker wires going directly to the doors and connecting them to the ends coming out from the amp

 

[ScarabEpic22]

Isnt it common practice to have speaker cables as short as possible?

You run right by the B Pillars on the way up to the HU so why not end the rear wires there?

For my front door speakers I cut the wires in the kick panel and picked which ever side went into the door

The kit I used came with 40ft speaker wire, 20ft 4ga power wire

Theoretically yes, but unless you have a massive noise issue, it's not a problem.

You could splice into the rear wires at the doors if you wanted, then you have to tap both doors individually vs just grab everything at the HU.

Different strokes, works great for me and has been for a few years now.

you could have an amp that requires speaker-level input, won't need a LOC in that case. the amp that the OP and myself will be using has this feature. when i think of tapping into wires, im thinking cutting and splicing the speaker wires going directly to the doors and connecting them to the ends coming out from the amp

Yea I think my Alpine PDX-V9 does too but went with the LOC -> RCAs, why, well you'd have to ask me a few years ago lol. I just did my wife's car with high level/speaker inputs and it turned out great too, so just do what's easier for you. If you're going to SPL or a crazy high end build, you'll be swapping the factory HU anyway so it's a moot point. For guys wanting to keep the factory look, either LOC or high level would be just fine. I like doing it behind the HU so you can get away not ripping the car apart if you don't want to. Just door panels and pull HU+glovebox on our cars.