2018 1.4 manual build thread
- Thread starter Nataphen
- Start date
YouBeTailsIllBeSonic
Member
WGA preload is up to 1.5 turns and running great. No overboost condition for several hundred miles of testing, so I guess I’ll be leaving it here. The boost comes on super quickly now!
I got a new NLS file, installed solid shifter base bushings, and reinstalled my DRS motor mount. The combination of these things seems to have fixed my NLS grind from 1-2. I still have Amsoil trans fluid to add also, so it should only get better.
I found a solution to pulling the ABS fuse that I’ll be working to get done soon. There’s a way to wire a switch into the fuse to turn it on and off without physically pulling it. I’m a big fan of this alternative. I really wish the tuners could come up with a way to fully disable it with the stock buttons so that ABS can be retained as well, but nobody seems to have the key to that yet. Having the fuse on a switch will be the next best thing.
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I got a new NLS file, installed solid shifter base bushings, and reinstalled my DRS motor mount. The combination of these things seems to have fixed my NLS grind from 1-2. I still have Amsoil trans fluid to add also, so it should only get better.
I found a solution to pulling the ABS fuse that I’ll be working to get done soon. There’s a way to wire a switch into the fuse to turn it on and off without physically pulling it. I’m a big fan of this alternative. I really wish the tuners could come up with a way to fully disable it with the stock buttons so that ABS can be retained as well, but nobody seems to have the key to that yet. Having the fuse on a switch will be the next best thing.
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SnotRocketRS
Member
Déjà vu
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YouBeTailsIllBeSonic
Member
Oh man that looks so clean.....those are the universal Ebay flares, right? Where did you find the straight ones? All I could see were the ones with a concave surface.
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By recommendation from dtbrown, I did the BPV solenoid bypass today. I didn’t think it was really necessary when you had a tune, but it’s made a big difference in smoothness in my short couple of hours of experience with it. For me, WOT boost comes in the same and peaks out the same as before, but the part throttle behavior is much smoother and more consistent. I used to get these random little bucks and surges, or when cruising up a hill boost would randomly drop out and cause the car to lose acceleration. This seems to have corrected those things. The car behaves as I’m anticipating it to when I add throttle now. So far, I would highly recommend this modification.
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Hey, I'm glad you've seen what I have too. I got to do another hour today in the car and it's crazy how noticeable difference in driveability. So far no codes too. I'm going to do a post as I feel if you have a tune this is absolutely required as I've had what I consider driveability issues from day one with exactly what you listed too. Now it behaves exactly how it should and even helped with my throttle mapping issues too.
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Skunkworks porting and ECOtec performance are currently testing custom cams and a ported head on a 30psi big turbo setup. He said they will be offering cams and headwork in the future, and the cams are new units, not regrinds. Interesting stuff!
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Well that's cool. Where you get your oil tested done? And how does that help you? I'm assuming depending on the contents how the motor is wearing? I've heard if this before but don't recall the details.Latest UOA. I replaced 1.5 quarts of oil about halfway through this interval when I changed the turbo, so that will skew it.
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I use Blackstone. The idea is to start from the beginning and you’ll hopefully catch problems early. They compare your analysis to similar engines, but they most importantly compare it to your previous results to see if there is a gradual or sudden rise in certain materials.
They will make recommendations to change your oil type and weight or shorten your interval. It’s the only way to actually know what oil is working for you. Not just comparing ad campaigns or going on what some dude on the internet thinks he knows.
I’m currently running Amsoil SS 0W-30 in both of my cars on 7500 mile intervals. They’ve mentioned no reason to adjust anything that I’m doing. The Sonic gets pushed pretty hard by me. The Miata is supercharged with a 7600RPM rev limit and regularly driven in worse traffic conditions. I’m even considering extending my oil change interval after all break in materials have leveled out.
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They will make recommendations to change your oil type and weight or shorten your interval. It’s the only way to actually know what oil is working for you. Not just comparing ad campaigns or going on what some dude on the internet thinks he knows.
I’m currently running Amsoil SS 0W-30 in both of my cars on 7500 mile intervals. They’ve mentioned no reason to adjust anything that I’m doing. The Sonic gets pushed pretty hard by me. The Miata is supercharged with a 7600RPM rev limit and regularly driven in worse traffic conditions. I’m even considering extending my oil change interval after all break in materials have leveled out.
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In case y’all haven’t seen it in the news, ethanol industries are having a tough time right now due to some policies that are unfavorable to them that have been put into place. I’m not looking to spark a political debate or convert anyone to ethanol fuels. All I’m asking is, if you sometimes use E15 or E85 anyway, please make a little extra effort to support the people producing it and use it more often if possible.
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