1.4L Teardown/Modification
- Thread starter Preloader
- Start date
Stew
Sedans Rule!
Preloader, your posting about cracked rods reminded me that I had read about these some years ago but had since forgot. Pretty neat idea, the rough surface essentially keys the end cap to the rod and locks them together much better than a flat machined surface. Not to mention that it also probably saves time making them since there's less machine work to do. Thanks for the refresher!
Scot
Athletic Supporter
It's a fun patent to look at:
A method of making remateable cracked connecting rods
A method of making remateable cracked connecting rods
ChrisJ
Active member
But it doesn't mention anything about them being stronger?
" Fracturing is a more attractive alternative because it allows the irregular jagged ridges on the cracked plane to facilitate more exact rematching of the pieces"
From that patent all I got was cracked rods are much faster therefore cheaper to make?
Cracked rods are manufactured due to costs. Has nothing to do with material strength.
AxelRipper
Member
Yep, mostly due to cost and manufacturability, but there is some strength there as well.
Think about it, if you cut the bottom end of a rod, you have to then bolt it back together and re-machine the bore, and if for some reason the cap gets put on backwards, your tolerances are way off.
For the cracked rods, you forge the rod, bore it to size, then crack it. At this point, you've keyed it to go together one way. 95% of the time the bolts simply won't fit if you try to put it together the wrong way. There is also some strength benefit to it as well. If you hit something, where does it crack? Along the weakest area. So essentially you've taken the weakest section of the big end of the rod and made it into a joint.
Or at least that's how I've always understood it.
Oh, and Preloader: You know you want a flappy stick dogbox...
Think about it, if you cut the bottom end of a rod, you have to then bolt it back together and re-machine the bore, and if for some reason the cap gets put on backwards, your tolerances are way off.
For the cracked rods, you forge the rod, bore it to size, then crack it. At this point, you've keyed it to go together one way. 95% of the time the bolts simply won't fit if you try to put it together the wrong way. There is also some strength benefit to it as well. If you hit something, where does it crack? Along the weakest area. So essentially you've taken the weakest section of the big end of the rod and made it into a joint.
Or at least that's how I've always understood it.
Oh, and Preloader: You know you want a flappy stick dogbox...
Preloader
The M32 Martyr
Cutting disturbs the lattices in the forged carbon. Know the difference between the strength of rolled threads and cut threads when it comes to bolts?
Rolled threads squeeze the threads into the bolt without breaking the metal's "grain". They are multiple times stronger then cut threads.
This is how I imagine the cracking being superior to cutting. Even if only ever so slightly.
Rolled threads squeeze the threads into the bolt without breaking the metal's "grain". They are multiple times stronger then cut threads.
This is how I imagine the cracking being superior to cutting. Even if only ever so slightly.
firstorbit84
New member
Any progress? Or are you going to keep talking about good crack is?
Preloader
The M32 Martyr
ChrisJ
Active member
Only slightly misleading, title says "Chevy Cruze Turbo 1.4L engine 11 12 13" but then he adds that is only the turbo in the description.
What good is a factory turbo right now? Can it be modded?
Preloader
The M32 Martyr
Sure, there a lots of things you can do. Well not you, but people who are willing to modify their Sonics.
You could have the exhaust ceramic coated, and maybe see a gain of 5-10 hp.
Or you could play with your WG for earlier spool up, knowing you had a back up turbo if you fried one.
You could send the exhaust portion to DDMW and have him flange it for any turbo of your choice.
If you owned a 1.8 you could have a shop cut and fuse it to a 1.8 exhaust flange.
I just saw it when I was fishing for 1.4 stuff and thought I'd share. $260 ain't too bad. Usually they want that much just for the exhaust housing. $700 is avg price for a use OEM turbo.
You could have the exhaust ceramic coated, and maybe see a gain of 5-10 hp.
Or you could play with your WG for earlier spool up, knowing you had a back up turbo if you fried one.
You could send the exhaust portion to DDMW and have him flange it for any turbo of your choice.
If you owned a 1.8 you could have a shop cut and fuse it to a 1.8 exhaust flange.
I just saw it when I was fishing for 1.4 stuff and thought I'd share. $260 ain't too bad. Usually they want that much just for the exhaust housing. $700 is avg price for a use OEM turbo.
sx sonic
New member
You could also ship the cold side of the turbo to Vermont Tuners to have a larger compressor put on and the housing machined to accept it.
And port the exhaust manifold and the entry of the turbo.
Might as well radius open the turbine discharge and enlarge the wastegate opening while you're at it.
And port the exhaust manifold and the entry of the turbo.
Might as well radius open the turbine discharge and enlarge the wastegate opening while you're at it.
laborsmith
New member
Did you check the Cruze Forum? I am pretty sure I saw what you are looking for there but it would have been about a year ago.
No I will not search for you, just in case you are thinking to ask.
Laborsmith
No I will not search for you, just in case you are thinking to ask.
Laborsmith
Last edited:
ChrisJ
Active member
Sure, there a lots of things you can do. Well not you, but people who are willing to modify their Sonics.
Sorry dude can't afford to play games with my Sonic.
