Installing new springs!
- Thread starter Danny5
- Start date
acamacho104
Member
Won't rust if its covered in grease.
Its the mobile link but here you go
http://m.sears.com/craftsman-c3-19.2-volt-cordless-1-2inch-wrench-kit/p-00931305000P
Its the mobile link but here you go
http://m.sears.com/craftsman-c3-19.2-volt-cordless-1-2inch-wrench-kit/p-00931305000P
acamacho104
Member
Right? The more full the battery the more powerful it is. I love mine. The next investment needs to be a lithium ion battery. I gotta get one too
bchs89
Member
So I got my B&Gs installed yesterday/last night, they were pretty much incident-free during the install, minus the rusted driver's side tophat.
Everything came off without a hitch, however when putting the driver's side new spring/shock assembly back into place I don't think I got it completely re-tightened. Basically I had to home rig up a stubby flathead screwdriver to hold the threaded post still while I used a 24mm socket without the ratchet handle and used a pair of vicegrips to turn it by hand. When trying to tighten the threaded post once the nut hit a certain point it would just spin the whole post and nut. I was able to tighten it down using my homemade method but I know that I must not have gotten it all the way tightened.
On my passenger side tophat I was able to snug the 24mm all the way down with a regular wratchet handle without any spin, and snugged it down as tight as I could by hand. Whenever I am turning my front wheels all the way right or left (and most noticeably when I am backing up) I can hear a loud audible pop/click fron the driver's side where the strut tophat is. Does anyone have any advice to be able to tighten this down all the way?
I know the factory uses a nutdriver and fastener hex-key holder to keep the fastener still. It looks like the post uses a pretty beefy torx bit, but unfortunately the biggest I have on hand is T40. Thanks for the help.
Everything came off without a hitch, however when putting the driver's side new spring/shock assembly back into place I don't think I got it completely re-tightened. Basically I had to home rig up a stubby flathead screwdriver to hold the threaded post still while I used a 24mm socket without the ratchet handle and used a pair of vicegrips to turn it by hand. When trying to tighten the threaded post once the nut hit a certain point it would just spin the whole post and nut. I was able to tighten it down using my homemade method but I know that I must not have gotten it all the way tightened.
On my passenger side tophat I was able to snug the 24mm all the way down with a regular wratchet handle without any spin, and snugged it down as tight as I could by hand. Whenever I am turning my front wheels all the way right or left (and most noticeably when I am backing up) I can hear a loud audible pop/click fron the driver's side where the strut tophat is. Does anyone have any advice to be able to tighten this down all the way?
I know the factory uses a nutdriver and fastener hex-key holder to keep the fastener still. It looks like the post uses a pretty beefy torx bit, but unfortunately the biggest I have on hand is T40. Thanks for the help.
Last edited:
bchs89
Member
Trying to get as much weight/pressure on the strut to hold it in place, right?
I tried tightening it last night after I had taken the car off jack stands and had the weight of the car on it, but it would still spin. I will try what you said though
bchs89
Member
If I'm able to get the first nut off the post and take a look at the cap underneath, I will have to see if it was something as simple as me not tightening the cap nut down far enough to allow the top cup/nut to tighten more.
And I know what you mean about those spring compressors, I'm still feeling like Popeye the sailor man here after wrestling with those for a few hours yesterday man.
bomboteer
New member
im using this one... used it in tyre rotation and it works fine... i tried it also in some rusted and stocked nut and it works