Sound system upgrade

[Turbonic]

Looking at finally upgrading the sound system on my 2012 sonic LT and got a few questions. Ive been lurking the forums and looking at pictures and installation does not look terrible. While I'm doing the install I plan on sound-proofing the doors, spare tire wheel well and the trunk with dynamat or something equivalent, also installing speaker baffles for the front and rear door speakers. Is it worthwhile? I also thought about installing a shallow 8" or 10" sub but there is absolutely no place to put them since I use 100% of my cargo on a normal basis. Will a head unit, better speakers with an amplifier increase speaker bass without distortion? Probably won't amount to the bass even from a compact subwoofer, but its all I have to work with

Here's a list of stuff I gathered from talking to one of the Crutchfield guys:

For the head unit I'm looking into a Kenwood double din setup with navigation. not sure which particular one yet
Metra 99-3012G-LC Dash Integration w/chime interface
Euro Antenna Adapter OEM F to Motorola M
PAC SWI-CP2 Steering Wheel Radio Control Interface
Infinity Primus PR6500cs 6-3/4" Component Car Speakers
Infinity Primus PR6502is 6-3/4" 2-Way Speakers
SiriusXM SXV300V1 Satellite Radio Tuner
Sound Ordnance M4050 50W x 4 Car Amplifier
Crutchfield Reference RCA 4 Channel 12 ft Patch Cable
Crutchfield Speaker Wire 14 ga per foot
Crutchfield Reference RCA 12 ft Patch Cable
Crutchfield Amp Wiring Kit 4 gauge Dual Amp

 

[Turbonic]

I could save a lot of money if i just bought everything separately on ebay but the speakers i don't think would come with brackets that would work on the sonic and i won't have step-by-step installation instructions

 

[mja]

Check this thread first:
http://www.sonicownersforum.com/forum/do-yourself-articles/8606-my-sound-system-install.html

If you run 6.5" they'll screw straight into the stock brackets with a little modification. See post #10 and #25 of my build thread and the thread linked above. At the price point you're in, 6.5" vs 6.75" is not going make a noticeable difference in midrange bass if you get enough power to them, no need to buy adapters. Also at this price point, you want to match RMS with amp output, since sound quality is going to be the same unless you step up to the 150-300$ speaker range. Sound deadening like you're talking about will go further per dollar for sound quality.

I had issues with running DLS components up front, they kept going bad, so I switched to 2-ways with no issues since. I have 4x Kicker 6.5", 100 W RMS @ 65$, with a 300 W 4-channel that tucks away under the center console. This speaker setup drowns out the bass from my 10" shallow sub with a 300 W x1 amp, so I have to lower the speaker decibel output on the head unit to hear the full range.

Both speakers you list are 6.5". The Infiniti components are 80 W RMS @ 80$. The 2-way 70 W RMS @ 50$ is a good deal if it actually handles the power. If you wanna stick with Crutchfield, the Kenwood KFC-1695PS, 75 W RMS @ 80$, would be an easier install than the components.

The Sound Ordnance M4050 amp @ 80$ looks good, but it's too weak for your goals of mid range bass + RMS output. Def an upgrade from stock but that amp is for a vanilla speaker upgrade, save $$ on cheaper speakers around 40-50 W RMS if you go with that amp.

Crutchfield lists a more compact Sound Ordnance M75-4 that would get more out of your speaker choices, but @ 130$.

If you add an 8-10" shallow sub with this setup at 300 W, you'd hardly notice.

 

[TurtleOverlord]

If youre going without the sub and want any amount of bass from the door speakers, do not get 2-way/coaxial speakers.

I have components in the front and 2-way in the back and need to keep the bass down on those.

6.5" speakers can bolt into the stock housings, once you remove/destroy the factory speakers.

have you seen the sub boxes that are built into the removable floor?
I have a full size 12" in mine.

I have all the part numbers listed in my garage section

 

[TurtleOverlord]

I used the metra kit you listed with the axxess steering wheel controls

The LC version of the kit is fine, it just takes a little more wiring.
The non LC kit just comes with the plug for the axxess box installed already

 

[Turbonic]

Super helpful info right here, I appreciate your post @mja Im learning as Im going with all this. The amp you mentioned is all around better than the one I was recommended, but I would think you'd have issues with the coaxial speakers rather than the components, funny how that works. I would do components in the back as well but I wouldn't know where to put the tweeters. Those Kenwood 3-ways look awesome but I don't know how they would perform

I guess I just need to continue doing some research. I know the answer to this, but is doing all the aforementioned work and speaker "upgrades" really worth it? you mentioned sound quality will be about the same unless I go with $150-$300 speakers, and that sound deadening will go further per dollar than actually replacing audio components. I would think just about anything would be better than stock

 

[Turbonic]

If youre going without the sub and want any amount of bass from the door speakers, do not get 2-way/coaxial speakers.

I have components in the front and 2-way in the back and need to keep the bass down on those.

6.5" speakers can bolt into the stock housings, once you remove/destroy the factory speakers.

have you seen the sub boxes that are built into the removable floor?
I have a full size 12" in mine.

I have all the part numbers listed in my garage section

see Im afraid with coaxials I won't get as much bass. so then your setup must be pretty good then, even with the 2-ways, what is your setup?

I would just bolt down a subwoofer on the removable floor but I use all of my cargo space. also I would think mounting one there would create a ton of vibration/rattling

 

[TurtleOverlord]

Kenwood DNX573S Headunit
Pioneer GM-D9605 Amp
Polk Audio DB6502 Fronts
Polk Audio DB652 Rears
Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Sub

The sub is a little overkill imo but is a nice addition, its fun to crank occasionally.
maybe a 10" or 8" would be more appropriate.

If I had the bass settings on the HU turned up I think the polks would handle it well,
but they're not gonna shake your rear view mirror loose.

No idea on mounting rear tweeters, but my front tweeters fit pretty nicely into the stock location.
I just used some silicone to keep them there since there are no clips like the stock ones.

 

[mja]

The Kicker 6.5 CS coax are better than stock at any range, don't let anyone convince you otherwise about coax. Mild to medium upgrade over stock. Sure components offer more audiophile placement and control, but in my setups they haven't lasted. I blew 3 DLS MB6 (higher end 2 way components) that were wired properly and rated RMS well above my 300 W amp in the Sonic. This has been my experience in the past with components too, theres always something that goes out in a year or 2. At 180$/pop the DLS's were killing me with no warranty. On the flip side, I had some old Infinity 3 way coaxes that lasted through 3 audio builds.

I have a shallow 10" Rockford Fosgate mounted in an ebay special shallow sub box and it fits under the false trunk floor with no modification. Its velcroed down and comes out in 5 seconds if needed. These 8-10" shallow subs around 300-400 W RMS are good only when paired with entry speakers and a 200 W speaker amp, otherwise theyre a waste of $.

Either go with a real sub like TurtleOverlord or hit the mid range harder. It depends on your price point and what you want out of it. Im used to 2x12" subs hitting 1200-1500 W. 1 shallow 10" is drowned out by the midrange speakers.

Its worth mentioning that my reasons for my system setup is to listen to the music with the windows down on the freeway and to have a nav headunit that syncs better with my phone. I wanted to stay at or under 600 W so the electrical load wasnt stressed.

 

[Turbonic]

dang. my purposes are just to have a clearer, louder sound that doesn't distort and more bass. I usually have the volume around 26 and these factory speakers start to distort and whatnot around 30, I don't have the volume up super loud and I don't want overwhelming bass, I think even one 12" sub would be overkill for what I'm after. I would think after sound-deadening the doors and trunk and installing the speaker baffles I won't need to have the volume up as much when cruising on the highway

 

[Turbonic]

If I do go with components in the back I’m thinking of putting tweeters here in each side shown in the first picture, can’t think of anywhere else I’d put them

Also if I do install a shallow subwoofer I’d put it on the floor covering the spare tire wheel well and underneath the trunk floor, shown in the second pic. I’m not sure if it would be sturdy enough for this or how much vibration there would be or if it being covered by the trunk floor would drown the bass, but the sub would definitely need to be able to be quickly removed in the event that I need my spare tire. I’m looking at the Rockville rw10ca, and I’d probably drill a hole in the trunk lining and run wires through a grommet. Also if I do run this subwoofer Id probably go with coaxial speakers in the rear doors

That is, if I go that route. I’m hoping with just component speakers and an amp with a better head unit that the bass would be noticeably improved

 

[mja]

You're right man sound deadening and keep your original setup you chose, upgrade the amp to a 280-300 W 4 channel instead of the 200 W and you'll be happy. Can always upgrade to sub later.

 

[Turbonic]

Found a better spot for rear tweeters

 

[MaD]

GTMAT is cheaper and thicker than dynamat... I did about 75% coverage and it made a HUGE difference. I did a sealed 10 in the spare tire and alpine speakers, if you look in my garage you can see the pics.

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[Turbonic]

GTMAT is cheaper and thicker than dynamat... I did about 75% coverage and it made a HUGE difference. I did a sealed 10 in the spare tire and alpine speakers, if you look in my garage you can see the pics.

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75% coverage of only the spare tire wheel well? I plan on covering that entire area, as well as the trunk and the doors. Glad to see that it helps, Ill be adding speaker baffles as well which will only help even more. You didn't have any issues with smell or adhesion with GTMAT?

 

[Turbonic]

also I was thinking of installing some of these. I think this would help with wind noise coming from the top corners of the doors:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-12-17-...ash=item5d77154130:g:~PgAAOSwW6BaPlZB&vxp=mtr

 

[MaD]

I did all doors rear hatch, I added about 40ish lbs to the car. GTMAT is great, when I installed GTMAT, I did it out in my driveway in the sun and let it get hot... it made a huge difference in applying it to the car, and if I had to remove it now... nope not gonna happen it's part of the car now. As far as smell, nothing... I drove down to AZ last July in the heat and had zero smells. My next step will be the floors, I don't plan on the roof though. Hope that helps.

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[Turbonic]

I did all doors rear hatch, I added about 40ish lbs to the car. GTMAT is great, when I installed GTMAT, I did it out in my driveway in the sun and let it get hot... it made a huge difference in applying it to the car, and if I had to remove it now... nope not gonna happen it's part of the car now. As far as smell, nothing... I drove down to AZ last July in the heat and had zero smells. My next step will be the floors, I don't plan on the roof though. Hope that helps.

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how many sq-ft of mat should i get for the doors, trunk, and spare wheel well? I might do the roof some other time as well

 

[JTee2017]

Found a better spot for rear tweeters

Um. . . have no idea what this is a picture of. Also, is the picture turned sideways or? ? ? Like your ideas , , just very hard to follow.

 

[MaD]

I did 50 Sq ft of 80 mil, it's not the thickest you could goto 110 mil, but 50 Sq ft was more than plenty for doors, hatch, and spare tire, plus I also did my wife's car doors, 2016 Prius and did still about 70% coverage.

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