Spark Plug Gap

[Leverus]

I still wish the dealer would cooperate with me on this one. The last time I was in I asked them to check while they were under the hood anyway, armed with info about this problem with the Cruze engines from CruzeTalk and they just blew me off since they assured me there would be a code, which is apparently false. I'm so uncomfortable under the hood and I don't want to screw anything up.

 

[rdss]

They get paid for everything they do. If they do more that's not required they are working for free. Usually you would assume that they would take care of you, but I guess your dealer will not.

 

[CoHPhasor]

I don't think it's written up here, but likely on CruzeTalk.
Just follow the instructions, afaik the plugs on our motors are super easy to access.
I don't think you could do anything more basic than pull plugs, check gap and reinstall.

Just make sure you turn the plugs by HAND when reinstalling them, don't use a ratchet until you've gone as far as possible by hand.
(I use anti-sieze on the threads just in case and ESPECIALLY since Iridiums go so long before being replaced)

Honestly, read through a write-up, if it sounds too difficult, don't do ANYTHING on your car ever.
I'm sure you can tackle it.

 

[Leverus]

Aye, I understand how to do it, I just lack any faith in my ability with tools. I wish I knew some car nuts in my area to help out.

 

[rdss]

You'll never gain confidence if you never try, but then again, you'll never fail....

 

[Larry]

First drive after re-gapping. WOW! The engine is way livelier below 2000rpm, it's just night and day. Before, the engine would kind of jerk the car on every shift. Now it's buttery smooth and the engine instantly starts to accelerate instead of kind of "waiting" before my throttle inputs do anything.

It also feels like the power is more consistent, each 1st-2nd gear pull feels just as powerful as the last instead of sometimes feeling strong and other times feeling like meh.

Also, check out my first tank results on fuelly. Pretty freaking amazing, considering how spirited I drove the car. A/C was on 100% of the time and it was dealer gas so who knows what was in it. I didn't re-gap the plugs until the last 20-30 miles of the tank, so the results on that will have to wait. I did just put 93 octane in though, so the results might skew.

Edit: I tried to do the intake trumpet removal, but then I noticed I would have to cut it off and I don't want to destroy parts of my brand new car so soon.

 

[Leverus]

You'll never gain confidence if you never try, but then again, you'll never fail....

True. I guess I'll man up and do it when I get a day off. Worst case scenario I ruin a set of plugs. (...right?)

 

[Larry]

True. I guess I'll man up and do it when I get a day off. Worst case scenario I ruin a set of plugs. (...right?)

If you need it, I can give you my phone number and I'll walk you through it over the phone.

 

[Leverus]

Appreciated, but as for general instruction I think I'm ok. I'm mostly worried about cross threading or over tightening them. That's probably where I'd screw up if I did.

 

[Larry]

Appreciated, but as for general instruction I think I'm ok. I'm mostly worried about cross threading or over tightening them. That's probably where I'd screw up if I did.

Use an extending magnet tool to drop each plug in the hole. Then turn left before tightening by hand. Tighten until you can't anymore, then use the wrench and go 1/4 turn more. Real simple, can't do it wrong

 

[Leverus]

Real simple, can't do it wrong

Spoken like someone who's never seen me try to use something as simple as a hammer

 

[Larry]

Spoken like someone who's never seen me try to use something as simple as a hammer

I have faith in you! Now do it and report back so we can all tell you we told you so

 

[rdss]

Yeah, spark plug socket, an extension and a gentle twist to start the thread, hand tighten, if anything doesn't feel right step back and start over, don't rush, tighten down to finger tight then snug up with the ratchet. I highly recommend some anti-seize like mentioned above. Aluminum and dissimilar metals usually don't like to touch (expand and contract at different speeds) and can seize.

 

[Larry]

Yeah, spark plug socket, an extension and a gentle twist to start the thread, hand tighten, if anything doesn't feel right step back and start over, don't rush, tighten down to finger tight then snug up with the ratchet. I highly recommend some anti-seize like mentioned above. Aluminum and dissimilar metals usually don't like to touch (expand and contract at different speeds) and can seize.

Ooo yeah good point, reminds me of this warning. Never install spark plugs when the engine is warm. Always do it when it's cool to the touch. Because of the contraction/expansion, you may tighten while warm and when it cools down it will contract causing it to tighten even more. Serious damage can occur, so just remember cool to the touch

 

[Leverus]

Will do guys. I'll need to wait until next payday in order to buy the tools needed but I'll report back. My K&N filter already made a huge improvement to this engine, especially at lower RPM, and if my plugs are incorrectly gapped too maybe it'll be even better. Thanks.

 

[CoHPhasor]

Use an extending magnet tool to drop each plug in the hole. Then turn left before tightening by hand. Tighten until you can't anymore, then use the wrench and go 1/4 turn more. Real simple, can't do it wrong

I don't agree on the technique.
Go to a hardware store or somewhere you can buy sockets.
Get the appropriately sized "spark plug socket", it will have a little rubber collar in the bottom that spark plugs "pop" into.
With a plug popped into the socket it wont fall out unless forcibly yanked on.
Just use and extension on the socket and twist the extension by hand when putting the socket in.
The extension gives you nice tactile control and you can be sure that if you're careful that you haven't accidentally changed the gapping.
Once it bottoms out, and it took several turns to get in, you know you didn't cross-thread and you can tighten it down with the ratchet.
(It doesn't take tons of force so dont hold the ratchet near the end of the handle, but more towards the head, there's less mechanical advantage/force that way)

 

[sx sonic]

I've had good luck pulling on the end of the ratchet with two fingers (pointer&middle) until my fingers are straing as much as my arm. Basically don't gorilla tighten it, if your giveing it everything you've got its way to much, if its snug and you go just a tiny bt more its too loose.. also be gentle and smooth as your torqueing it down..

I'm sure I explained that in a manner that makes no sense but if it helps awesome.. it won't take butm 30 mins

Goodluck

-tyler

 

[FREEYOURMINDSS]

Dealers don't want to mess with any issues that aren't blatantly obvious, like a CEL or something that is visibly broken or completely non-functional. If they have to spend time diagnosing a concern that they may not get paid for, either from the warranty or the customer, they will spin you every time. Even if one was to gripe enough at the service writer or manager to check it out, chances are they will just tell the oil change kid or hourly apprentice that doesn't give a care to look at it and report back. Flat rate techs don't want those jobs. This is typical for any dealership, anywhere.
I'd rather do as much of the work myself until a problem occurs that can't be contested at the dealer.

 

[Larry]

I don't agree on the technique.
Go to a hardware store or somewhere you can buy sockets.
Get the appropriately sized "spark plug socket", it will have a little rubber collar in the bottom that spark plugs "pop" into.
With a plug popped into the socket it wont fall out unless forcibly yanked on.
Just use and extension on the socket and twist the extension by hand when putting the socket in.
The extension gives you nice tactile control and you can be sure that if you're careful that you haven't accidentally changed the gapping.
Once it bottoms out, and it took several turns to get in, you know you didn't cross-thread and you can tighten it down with the ratchet.
(It doesn't take tons of force so dont hold the ratchet near the end of the handle, but more towards the head, there's less mechanical advantage/force that way)

I have one of those spark plug sockets, but the problem is once I finish tightening the plug I can't remove the socket because it grips too tightly.

 

[rdss]

Hit the rubber In the socket with a shot of WD-40 and see if that gets you the grip with easy release.