JTee2017
Well-known member
Thanks! And the fit is good with no binding or excessive force? I noticed the lift struts are rated at 30lbs.
Otherwise. . . . great find and analysis on your part !
what did you do to your Sonic today?
- Thread starter firstorbit84
- Start date
Thanks! And the fit is good with no binding or excessive force? I noticed the lift struts are rated at 30lbs.
Otherwise. . . . great find and analysis on your part !
Blue Moon Sonic
New member
Pretty sure I'm going to have to replace my upper trans mount. Even with the TTR engine mount and BNR lower mount, The transmission has too much movement. Currently Contacting different vendors to see if they'd be willing to make an upper trans mount for the 6t40 transmission. I know I'm not the only one with a modified automatic.
TurtleOverlord
Active member
No binding, 30lbs seems good to me.
It would almost hold it open with one installed, but wouldn't stay.
25lbs may work but I think 20 might be pushing it.
TurtleOverlord
Active member
Also just did the h9 swap
H11 left H9 right
Edit: also the 9011 swap
9005 left 9011 right
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H11 left H9 right
Edit: also the 9011 swap
9005 left 9011 right
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JTee2017
Well-known member
RS Emblem . . . .
Ordered and installed a replacement rear emblem. . . .
Bugged me that 2017-18 Sonic Hatchbacks have "RS" on the front grille, but LT on the rear deck hatch.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/95060344-RS-Rear-Emblem-Red-New-OEM-GM-Nameplate-2013-16-Chevy-Sonic/232499096880?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Ordered and installed a replacement rear emblem. . . .
Bugged me that 2017-18 Sonic Hatchbacks have "RS" on the front grille, but LT on the rear deck hatch.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/95060344-RS-Rear-Emblem-Red-New-OEM-GM-Nameplate-2013-16-Chevy-Sonic/232499096880?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
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Installed my Innovate Boost / Wideband gauge this morning. Was going to use the vent pod but the wiring for the gauge was too thick so I had to change plans. Went with this instead. Looks clean still. Just need to route the O2 sensor thorough the firewall after my DP gets installed.
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Tormach
Member
Got the used 15' Impala antenna installed, color matches and I feel it looks great on the car.
Had one issue, the AM/FM cable is busted (it's used so I was expecting something to not work), OnStar/XM cable works. I pre-tested the antenna prior to removing the old one.
So I plan to find another one that works and replace the cover.
Replacing the antenna is a very simple process. Tools needed, 10mm socket or ratcheting wrench and nylon or plastic trim removal set. If you have to swap Fakra connectors, tiny flathead screwdriver and pick tool.
1) Pop the 3 retaining rivets free on the head liner at the rear windshield. Don't remove them from the liner, they have plastic washers holding them the the liner. I stopped here at trim removal because it offered enough clearance to access the two wire connections and the antenna retain bolt and clip.
2) Next, break free the connectors from the body frame (they have retainers holding them to the body). Now you can separate the two wire connectors.
3) Use a socker or wrench to remove the antenna bolt and retainer clip. Carefully remove the antenna base with clear plastic retainer.
4) Check stock antenna fakra connector with the new antenna and swap connectors as needed.
5) Prep the roof for the new antenna, make sure the clear plastic retainer is on the base. Go inside and bolt it back in with the metal retainer.
6) Connect the wires back together and connect back onto the body frame. Pop the 3 head liner rivets back in place and your done.
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Had one issue, the AM/FM cable is busted (it's used so I was expecting something to not work), OnStar/XM cable works. I pre-tested the antenna prior to removing the old one.
So I plan to find another one that works and replace the cover.
Replacing the antenna is a very simple process. Tools needed, 10mm socket or ratcheting wrench and nylon or plastic trim removal set. If you have to swap Fakra connectors, tiny flathead screwdriver and pick tool.
1) Pop the 3 retaining rivets free on the head liner at the rear windshield. Don't remove them from the liner, they have plastic washers holding them the the liner. I stopped here at trim removal because it offered enough clearance to access the two wire connections and the antenna retain bolt and clip.
2) Next, break free the connectors from the body frame (they have retainers holding them to the body). Now you can separate the two wire connectors.
3) Use a socker or wrench to remove the antenna bolt and retainer clip. Carefully remove the antenna base with clear plastic retainer.
4) Check stock antenna fakra connector with the new antenna and swap connectors as needed.
5) Prep the roof for the new antenna, make sure the clear plastic retainer is on the base. Go inside and bolt it back in with the metal retainer.
6) Connect the wires back together and connect back onto the body frame. Pop the 3 head liner rivets back in place and your done.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Tormach
Member
Got my Power Stop K5550 Front Z23 Evolution Brake Kit installed, look and feel great.
Original rotors rusted to the damn hubs and BFH didn't work. So trick 2, two 3/8 bolts & four nuts and four 1" washer through the caliper mounts. Tighten and tap repeat till they pop and break free. Side noted, after 66k miles with Upstate NY weather, the original rotors had more then half the vent veins clogged/rusted closed or almost closed and slightly warped. [emoji35]
Looks like I'll be needing LCA's sooner then later.
Next project BNR rear sway bar when it gets here.. was going to get mid pipe and cat back but ran out of fun funds.
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Original rotors rusted to the damn hubs and BFH didn't work. So trick 2, two 3/8 bolts & four nuts and four 1" washer through the caliper mounts. Tighten and tap repeat till they pop and break free. Side noted, after 66k miles with Upstate NY weather, the original rotors had more then half the vent veins clogged/rusted closed or almost closed and slightly warped. [emoji35]
Looks like I'll be needing LCA's sooner then later.
Next project BNR rear sway bar when it gets here.. was going to get mid pipe and cat back but ran out of fun funds.
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SUPERDAD3114
New member
Porter my intake today!!
Pretty straight forward job. Disconnect all vacuum lines and disconnect all electrical connections. Take out fuel rail with injectors connected. Wiggle the manifold out and port. The reinstall is hella easy after understanding how to remove it. Feels good so far. Waiting for the updated tune from ZZP to tie it in.
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Pretty straight forward job. Disconnect all vacuum lines and disconnect all electrical connections. Take out fuel rail with injectors connected. Wiggle the manifold out and port. The reinstall is hella easy after understanding how to remove it. Feels good so far. Waiting for the updated tune from ZZP to tie it in.
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JTee2017
Well-known member
Hood Strut Lift Struts . . .
Installed the hood lift struts purchased from Lift Support Depot.
Hint . .. buy the 10mm M8 ball studs from Ebay or Amazon. Lift Support Depot does not have the right size that will fit the factory front fender bolt/nut to mount the ball stud. Also, used a thin 5/8" dia washer under the ball studs. Painted them black first and let dry over night.
The bracket they sell for the hood mount works ok, but must be angled in the opposite direction that Redline tells you to do. Also, did have to drill one of the bracket holes out to 3/8" to fit the hood stud.
Will post pictures if some are interested. Seems most just buy the Redline struts if they want them. The Lift Support Depot struts and hardware are near half price.
Install link w/pics LINK - - -http://www.sonicownersforum.com/forum/aftermarket-crowd/22679-hood-struts-hood-lifts-lift-struts.html#post379475
Installed the hood lift struts purchased from Lift Support Depot.
Hint . .. buy the 10mm M8 ball studs from Ebay or Amazon. Lift Support Depot does not have the right size that will fit the factory front fender bolt/nut to mount the ball stud. Also, used a thin 5/8" dia washer under the ball studs. Painted them black first and let dry over night.
The bracket they sell for the hood mount works ok, but must be angled in the opposite direction that Redline tells you to do. Also, did have to drill one of the bracket holes out to 3/8" to fit the hood stud.
Will post pictures if some are interested. Seems most just buy the Redline struts if they want them. The Lift Support Depot struts and hardware are near half price.
Install link w/pics LINK - - -http://www.sonicownersforum.com/forum/aftermarket-crowd/22679-hood-struts-hood-lifts-lift-struts.html#post379475
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Gimpster
New member
I will be curious for your review on that rear sway bar. I forgot how much these cars understeered until I got another....
I just see a lot of conflicting info on this particular product.
I just see a lot of conflicting info on this particular product.
Next project!!
Still have to finish resolving antenna to get fm working, I think I have it figured but not a priority.
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Tormach
Member
Definitely will post a review. I was hoping to do suspension upgrades at the same time, but i couldnt pass it up for 110. This install is weather permitting.
Wish bnr still had thier adjustable front sway bar.
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Blue Moon Sonic
New member
I agree. I really wanted that front sway bar when they had them still. The rear ZZP bar is amazing though. The rear end on these vehicles is pretty sloppy. The ZZP bar actually fixes that. If you have aftermarket mounts on the car, you'll notice a different feel for how the whole car vibrates.
Tormach
Member
Ya, that is what I am looking for and all the reviews ive read. I do plan to get MPFabs DRS fourth mount (found in a CSMANS diagram that we should of had a 4th mount, look at the bottom left hand corner of the image :blankface
. After that it is up in the air if I am going with just BNR's trans mount or both of TTR's mounts.Side note, I put in DDM's shift bushing last night and like the feel of them.
Blue Moon Sonic
New member
That's actually very interesting. I wouldn't be able to run the DRS anyways after MPfab said fitment was too tight to get one for the auto.
I'll give a run down based on what I've experienced with the mounts.
The BNR lower trans mount isn't the end all be all, but it's very good.
The TTR mounts will vibrate the whole car, but will get better over time as it's broken in.
Even with the TTR engine mount and the BNR lower transmission mount, the transmission itself still trying to wind back and move around despite the other two upgraded mounts. This effect was reduced along with vibrations after replacing the upper Transmission mount with a new one. However, the service life is going to be roughly 60,000-70,000 miles before it'll need replacing. The amount of slop it develops over that time is pretty bad and even with the new upper trans mount, You can still tell there is delay cause of the wind up effect from the engine and transmission trying to apply torque to the wheels.
I'll give a run down based on what I've experienced with the mounts.
The BNR lower trans mount isn't the end all be all, but it's very good.
The TTR mounts will vibrate the whole car, but will get better over time as it's broken in.
Even with the TTR engine mount and the BNR lower transmission mount, the transmission itself still trying to wind back and move around despite the other two upgraded mounts. This effect was reduced along with vibrations after replacing the upper Transmission mount with a new one. However, the service life is going to be roughly 60,000-70,000 miles before it'll need replacing. The amount of slop it develops over that time is pretty bad and even with the new upper trans mount, You can still tell there is delay cause of the wind up effect from the engine and transmission trying to apply torque to the wheels.
Gimpster
New member
Wonder if it would be worth developing a couple fixed engine snubbers for these cars. Especially one that would fit for you auto guys. I attached an example you'd see in the Miata world vs. a solid heim joint setup which has its ups/downs. Not the strut tower brace
M6 car here with no mount mods yet, but yah.. you can just FEEL the literal inches of slop when you stomp on it.
So if the ZZP sway is good, I guess I might pull the trigger. I just saw a lot of posts going back / forth about it over the DDM piece. I just really did not want to drill into my twisting beam, stupid as that might be.
M6 car here with no mount mods yet, but yah.. you can just FEEL the literal inches of slop when you stomp on it.
So if the ZZP sway is good, I guess I might pull the trigger. I just saw a lot of posts going back / forth about it over the DDM piece. I just really did not want to drill into my twisting beam, stupid as that might be.
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Tormach
Member
Ooo.. that is a very nice clean engine bay [emoji41]Wonder if it would be worth developing a couple fixed engine snubbers for these cars. Especially one that would fit for you auto guys. I attached an example you'd see in the Miata world vs. a solid heim joint setup which has its ups/downs. Not the strut tower brace
M6 car here with no mount mods yet, but yah.. you can just FEEL the literal inches of slop when you stomp on it.
So if the ZZP sway is good, I guess I might pull the trigger. I just saw a lot of posts going back / forth about it over the DDM piece. I just really did not want to drill into my twisting beam, stupid as that might be.
Ya, that could be a good option. My girlfriends G6 v6 has a mount like that on the passenger side.
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Blue Moon Sonic
New member
It would be a good alternative to for the 6t40 folks, Though now I'm actually considering buying a 14 RS hatch with the M32 to have a second hedgehog to play around with.